ashmason

Roger, please put me down for a set for my 90 GT when you get them all squared away and ready to ship. If there are matching driving light bulbs I would love those too.

Ashley

hacker-pschorr

The page says 5200 / 5600 at the top, and 2600 / 2800 further down the page:

http://woodypeck.ipage.com/?product=...eadlight-bulbs

Anyone have any idea how many lumens a regular H4 bulb is? I've seen sites claim anywhere from 1100 up to 2000. If those numbers are anywhere in the right ballpark, a 5200 lumen blulb might not be a great idea. Too much and you can over power the lens which isn't the best for oncoming traffic.

Other sites are listing them as 2200 / 2600:

http://www.gtrlighting.com/led-headl...0-lumen-bulbs/

FLYVMO

Hacker,

Sylvania Silverstar Ultra H4's put out about 910 lumens on low beam and 1500 lumens on high beam.

Cheers!
Carl

jcorenman

I bet that first spec is for the pair, and the second is for each lamp. They are also described as "60W" above, and 30W (2.5 amps per lamp) below.

Halogen H4's are un the 1000-1800 range depending on wattage (55 to 140w).

Color temperature is important also. Light scattering increases rapidly with shorter wavelengths (varies as the 4th power of wavelength), that's why the sky is blue-- scattered sunlight.
More scattering also means more glare, both to you and the guy trying to hit you. The French had it right, yellow headlights have less glare.
The cool thing about LED's is that they come in different colors. The typical 5000K is going to look pretty blue (and scatter a lot more) compared to halogens in the 2400-2800 range.
For brighter lamps especially I think a warmer color-temp is a big advantage, both to reduce glare and also to "hide" the fact that you have something non-standard. A 3000K "warm white" LED lamp will look like a very white halogen lamp.

I think these LED lamps in a 8" H4 housing with a 3000K color temp would be the absolute bomb! And of course H3 fog and driving lights to match.

Roger, can you please ask Steve about color temperature? Are they in stock yet?

Bizman928

Hi guys.

Thanks for all your interest in our bulbs at Woodypeck. SO many questions and diverse comments / concerns. I will try to answer all your questions in turn and feel free to ask away with more questions if you have them.

Roger will have these bulbs available in the new year.

I have had these bulbs in my black 928 S4 for over 18 months and have thoroughly tested them with many other 928'ers to make sure there are no problems, flaws or performance issues.

We have sold over 100 sets of bulbs not only to 928 owners but many 4x4 users, ford ranger trucks, Shoguns, Warrior trucks, and many more.

At the Merry Miller meet there were 14 of the 36 928's with our lights. An impressive showing. and we have 928 owners all over the globe using our H4 CREE Bulbs - in many countries with no problems

Many Thanks for your interest in our CREE LED bulbs
Steve
Bizman928
Woodypeck CREE LED Bulbs
http://woodypeck.ipage.com/?product=...eadlight-bulbs

Bizman928

Thanks for posting our bulbs - your 928 looks great with those lights.
So glad your pleased with them.
Steve

Tony

Next upgrade right there. Nice. I think the set up is well sorted with rain and moisture....not that it rains in england or anything.

Bizman928

Thanks for your comments/questions/concerns.

Regards the Bulbs protruding at the back - yes they do have a fan on the back which supplies cooling to the cast aluminium base which keeps the LED's and the base cool - around 75°C - which is ideal working temp for the CREE LED bulbs.

Regards the weatherseal - this is actually designed by Porsche to let the moisture out of the light units not stop it coming in! The standard Halogen bulbs create a massive amount of heat causing the bulb light units and lens run very very hot. To try to reduce condensation happening in the lens unit Porsche designed the weather seal along with a small carbon filter in it to let the lens light unit "breathe" and let the condensation out of the lens unit due to the excessive temperatures that the Halogen bulbs create.

If this weatherseal was missing then as soon as you switch the stock Halogen bulbs get switched off the glass lens would condensate up - just as our windows do on a cold night after driving around with 4 people inside. The fibre filter allows the weatherseal actually to "breathe" and reduce the condensation effect.

So with our LED's the glass lens Does Not Get Hot - At All! The CREE LED Bulb unit has its in built fan which keeps the LED unit at a stable temp and the glass lens therefore does not condense up. This renders the weatherseal unnecessary.

Regards rain ingress - yes some rain may get under the lip of the cowling - but how it would travel all around to the back of the cowling then travel against any wind forward, around the tight fitting of the H4 CREE LED bulb unit & spring clips and then into the glass lens is beyond me. - but needless to say it doesn't.

Bizman928

I will try to answer these comments in order......

= Our H4 CREE LED's are 2600 lumen 30w per bulb at High beam & low beam.
= For the bulb set they are 60w & 5200 Lumen.

= Standard Halogen bulbs - Stock OEM - are 55w/65w - 4500 Kelvin - only 750-850 lumen at low beam and 1150 - 1250 max at high beam

= Colour temp controls the intensity of the light & penetration strength/distance on the road.

= Light scatter through a glass lens is controlled by the pattern in the lens. Any scatter is down to the effectiveness of the lens to direct the light on to the road coupled with the light intensity produced by the bulb and how many Lumens they have available which is directly responsible for how much light is put on to the road.

= White light is in the range 4500k to 6000Kelvin. Blue light starts at 6500k and goes up to 8000k. So 5000k will not look Blue!

= Blue lights are typically classed as "City lights"@ 7000k by Phillips and they state they do not have the same light intensity or strength on the road as their "Country Lights" which are 5500k-6000k according to Phillips who recommend these for the best driving experience on the road. They have a cool website which shows these 2 different lighting scenarios.

= Standard OEM halogen bulbs have 4500k as standard but you can buy any colour temp range at your local garage. So looking "stock or standard" doesn't really apply. See Pelican parts guide...http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/.../hidcomp-1.jpg

= I spent some considerable time researching what is the best light system for our 928's and to see the road ahead in the safest way possible. Our bulbs do not scatter or glare though the standard glass lens housing and the high lumens intensity and colour temp combined put the best light output intensity safely down on the road. Without glaring any oncoming traffic.

Bizman928

Many Thanks Tony. Glad you like them

Bizman928

To answer your questions / comments...

= The bulbs are specified on the manufactures specifications sheet that these bulbs are 2800 lumen each so 5600 lumen as a set. But after initial start up the The lumen efficiency of CREE LED's drops the lumen intensity down to 2600 lumen per bulb so 5200 lumen per set. That's why there is the difference.

= As I have mentioned in another reply - the Standard H4 Halogen bulbs only give 750-850 lumen at low beam and 1150-1250 high beam.

= There is not a 5200 lumen bulb - that is for the pair of bulbs. and you are completely right - that much light would probably overpower the lens and cause scatter which would dazzle oncoming traffic

= Other site are only stating 2200/2600 lumen. These are the old bulbs which I first had in my car 18 months ago. The driver leads for these older bulbs are only 22w / 28w.
We worked with our supplier in maximising the capability of the bulbs and they upgraded the driver to a 28w/26w High beam/Low beam about a year ago. Around 8 months ago they have upgraded the drivers yet again and now we have a 30w/30w driver giving 2600 effective lumens at high beam and 2600 lumens at low beam as well. This gives the maximum effect at Low beam/dip beam

= The link you posted shows the old bulbs & drivers from 18 months ago.
These are 2 versions behind the latest products we supply.

ramcram

Yes, this is the setup. Very easy to fit. Major reduction in current draw.
Steve is a very easy guy to deal with.
I have also fitted his Cree LED fog lamps and am waiting for the spot [driving] light ones he has had made to suit the 928 reflectors/lenses.

Bizman928

Hi Ashley
We have matching side lights, fog lights, Aux/main beam all to match.
So there is a full set of front lights available though Roger & his team

Bizman928

Our H3 CREE LED replacement bulbs are suitable for replacing any H3 bulb - irrespective of the country typing. So easy answer is yes they are good for the USA cars.

Thanks for the interest. Steve

Bizman928

Hi Davek9
Thanks for your interest & comments. I checked out the Vleds link, these bulbs are in 2 pieces and also have the fans in the base - they are in the photo at the side of the bulbs. Screw in bases tend to make the bulb units run very hot which can cause issues with the CREE LED bulbs themselves.
The reason I sourced our supplier's products is that the complete light unit is all one die cast Aluminium housing. Sorry...I meant Aluminum

I know us Brit's talk funny and spell differently.

Almost all the higher powered CREE LED units we have seen have a separate fan which screws on to the bottom of the light shaft to provide cooling. The more Lumens per watt you generate the more heat that is created by the Light source so you need an efficient way to remove that heat.