smyth1

im getting my 87 prepped for paint.i removed the rub strip and am going to delete it.looking for the best way to fill the holes.i do not weld and would not really trust a body shop to weld the aluminum.was thinking of using epoxy.

GlenL

Bondo and spot putty. After a few years (3? 5? 10?), especially if it gets wet, it'll show bubbles and/or crack. Then do it over again and touch up the paint.

The aluminum is really thin and hard to weld, btw.

The Fixer

If done right it will never bubble or need repainting.

You will need to get to the back of every mounting hole and remove the paint and or undercoating scuffing the metal well.
Note i scuffed the face of the openings as well to hold the filler better.
My rub strip holes are not detectable and will never bubble.

Cut small bits of similar gauge steel and aluminum (see pic) for the rear quarters and doors and fenders.
Use alum and steel where the car is alum and steel.

Rough the mating surface of the small pieces of metal and panels to get good adhesion. Adhesion is everything in body work and other restoration.

Use Loctite 5 min Marine Epoxy to close the hole from the back side. 5 min is key as it sets fast. Loctite brand is best imo.

Once metal pieces are set, fill the holes with a quality filler not cheapo stuff. I used USG All Metal which is full of aluminum dust and does not attack water.
But I would even try JB Weld as a first layer as it will not react and swell after paint then feather with a quality RAGE brand filler..
Or Bondo brand GOLD which is now a 3M company.

I did mine this way on the aluminum but welded the steel rear quarter openings. Use a mirror to be sure things are right and seal/undercoat these opening well from back with a quality urethane caulk (Like OSI which can be bought at Home Depot) Note: Do not depend on spray undercoating to seal back, it will dry and crack drawing in water if caught out in rain. But the epoxy really seals it up anyway, this is just insurance..
The Loctite Marine epoxy also hold my ducktail in place. No issues at all as it is stable in severe cold and heat and in moist locations.

If you don't understand PM me and we can talk by phone.

Mrmerlin

Matt your really crafty, thanks for sharing

CardinalCar

I can't claim to have done it myself, but I did have my rub strips removed by a local specialty body shop. The owner disassembled the doors to be able to get at the back side of the skin, and then welded the holes by hand. It was a remarkable job, when the welds were finished (but prior to paint) I couldn't feel any transition with my fingertips.

Lizard928

I took a large single flute countersink and used it like a punch to divot the holes. Then I filled with an epoxy that oozed out the back. This give surface area front and back to adhear and as of yet no issues.

The Fixer

Coming from a master like yourself Stan that means a lot. Thanks.

Cardinalcar your 928 is gorgeous.

I finished my rear quarter welds as you did Cardinalcar, and found a long crease in the rear quarter..

andyww

I welded mine up. I think welding is absolutely the best solution. It is easy to weld and is the best permanent fix...

Adamant1971

+1 on welding. I had them done on my 85. Welded and sanded.

The Forgotten On

I'm replacing the doors and fenders on mine to get rid of accident damage and warping, but also get rid of the non original Porsche rub strips a PO decided was a good idea to install.

Tony

im keeping this for when mine goes in for paint. Unless the shop has a better idea.

Jerry Feather

I haven't done it, at least on a 928 door, but I have on the engine cowling on one of my Navion airplanes, and I would recommend trying some aluminum "solder" or low temp aluminum rod with a propane or mapp gas torch to fill the holes left when the strips are removed from the doors. If you are concerned about the big flame from the typical torch, get one of those pencil torches that you can probably find on eBay and use it very artfully.

smyth1

i do have some of those aluminum rods maybe I will try them.can the steel be braised?i was thinking of doing the epoxy backer method.1/2 inch electrical box knock out slugs would be a perfect backer.

Hollisterkiid92

Good thing my buddy is a welder, he welded a hole in my 944 drivers pan and looked good and to tell you he can weld coke cans together.. That's some tough s....t.:-)

77tony

WIT deleting things, also consider the US rear bumperettes, side marker lights, rear wiper, door lock holes, headlight squirters, sunroof, etc.02 T