aaddpp

Back in May I trailered my car to a storage locker on a flat Uhaul trailer (not the tow two wheels version). When I loaded the car onto the trailer, the front spoiler was just rubbing on the front lip of the trailer due to the low ride hide of the car. When I unloaded the car, I used a bottle jack to raise it and put a piece of 2x12 wood under the wheels. In addition to making unloading easier, it increased the clearance of the spoiler. So Im wondering, since I will be pulling the car our of storage tomorrow, if anyone has trailered on a Uhual using something under the front wheels to boost clearance? Safe?

Thanks - Dave

Mrmerlin

yes its common practice to add a block of wood under the wheels so the spoiler will not hit the ground.
They used this idea on Top Gear UK to get the GT Ford out of the parking garage as well as the other cars

Landseer

jack car before loading. it will load more easily and not settle during trip because uhaul trailer is sprung. wood at base of ramp can help. alternate method is load 928 backwards on trailer.

Fogey1

Absolutely, plus 928.

I doubt this. I once followed a 928 on a Uhaul trailer for 1500 miles and the suspension on the car was working the whole time.

(To this day, I kick myself for not driving the 928 and trailering the chase car.)

granprixweiss928

ive done it twice. i drove my pickup truck onto ramps to raise the front of the trailer, then cranked down the post with wheel on it on the front of the trailer. I put 2x12s under the front wheels and left them there while towing (clamped under the wheel and its strap). When loading and unloading, I put more 2x12s under the ramps on the ground to further reduce the angle of them and to keep the car from bottoming out on the trailer.

phendriks

I just backed mine on the Uhaul, it didn't clear the other way. IIRC, probably just as well, as the front framework of the trailer would have also hit the spoiler.
Cheers, phendriks

aaddpp

Wanted to thank you all for the confirmation and suggestions. A couple of 2x12s...one under each front wheel, elevated the car almost enough for the spoiler to clear. Jacking up the front for a few minutes gave just a little bit more height, allowing the spoiler to fully clear. Thanks again - Dave

mickster

I think Greg (PorscheManGreg) and I used 2x4's to get it up onto the trailer. That was interesting!

Current car is coming down in a 2 car trailer. Thankfully the driver has speed ramps and delivers Ferraris and other low-riders regularly...

928porschemangreg

When I got it home, because the suspension was so low, the front of the car had sprung over the front stop lip of the trailer. At that time the only choice was to remove the front lip of the trailer with a socket wrench, in order to back the car down. Next time it will be blocks under the wheels, although the ride height has been restored to factory now, so maybe wont happen again. Actually, I hope to never have to trailer it anywhere, knock on wood...

mickster

I was going to say--if you're trailering it--hopefully I'm buying it back

KenRudd

This may be a very bad idea. I can't find the original quote/post, and it may have been 944 related ( but principle is the same): The rear hatch is not designed for that kind of aero load. It's happy being pushed down when driving forward, but driving backwards at speed may cause lift, and the rear latch is likely not up to the task of holding it down. Rear hatch flies open >>> major drama.

Tiger03447

If you are going to trailer the car for a long, long distance, the best way is to jack the car up, and put blocks of wood below the frame and the trailer to keep the wheels off the trailer. The rocking of the car on the trailer while tied down, may cause brinnelling of the bearings and cause them to fail in short order after you arrive at your destination. Most army trucks being shipped by train used to be done this way,but maybe their bearings were softer and cheaper too. This may be out of date info, but why take the chance? wood is cheaper than new bearings plus the hassle of putting in new ones. sorry about necro-ing this thread..gotta check the dates closer...

KenRudd

Curse you, I had to look up "brinelling."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling
"Brinelling /ˈbrɪnəlɪŋ/ is the permanent indentation of a hard surface. It is named after the Brinell scale of hardness, in which a small ball is pushed against a hard surface at a preset level of force, and the depth and diameter of the mark indicates the Brinell hardness of the surface. Brinelling is a process of wear in which similar marks are pressed into the surface of a moving part, such as bearings or hydraulic pistons. The brinelling is usually undesirable, as the parts often mate with other parts in very close proximity. The very small indentations can quickly lead to improper operation, like chattering or excess vibration, which in turn can accelerate other forms of wear, such as spalling and galling."

And for more fun:
http://www.linearmotiontips.com/how-...at-brinelling/

"False brinelling looks similar to true brinelling, but occurs through vibration, not necessarily excessive load. In transportation, vibration can cause rollering elements to move, leaving indentations along the raceways, which looks similar to the damage from excessive load. The application of a light thrust load from springs or rubber pads before a bearing is transported can prevent such damage."

fraggle

I towed mine 2200 miles behind a 24ft uhaul truck, loaded backwards on the trailer. Did just fine.

The Fixer

When renting a U haul trailer remember to:

Check the adjustment nut under the tongue coupler, too many trailers are in desperate need of adjustment.

It might SEEM like it is tight, but check the nut under the coupler, it probably isn't.

*Tighten it well when hooked up and then back off slightly.

*Be sure the 928 is loaded forward on the trailer rather
than hanging back on it, this really helps with controlling the trailer at
highway speed.

*Check trailer tire pressures at right