what could have caused this??
10-31-2014, 06:25 PM
#1
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what could have caused this??
I was driving on the highway when the digital dash...and the engine started to studder. the dash blanked out and then it came back on some codes popped up...
The top code was typ-no 08
The bottom was 1905 and 1988
Any ideas???
The top code was typ-no 08
The bottom was 1905 and 1988
Any ideas???
10-31-2014, 06:39 PM
#2
Chronic Tool Dropper
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That displayed code is the firmware rev for the digital dash itself. Shows up when the dash is "reset", usually by low voltage. Inspect the battery connections and primary power circuit to the dash. That includes the starter primary, alternator, jump post and primary CE bus connections. Something in that circuit is loose.
11-01-2014, 01:17 AM
#6
If alternator and battery check out ok, check your grounds (all of them, especially the ones under the intake that are a huge pain in the *** to get to.)
And of course since it occured while driving then you should probably check for loose anything in the battery compartment and around the CE panel.
And of course since it occured while driving then you should probably check for loose anything in the battery compartment and around the CE panel.
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11-01-2014, 03:58 AM
#8
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It was raining today up here today. Maybe the engine ground strap is weak
11-01-2014, 04:19 PM
#9
Chronic Tool Dropper
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This isn't an engine ground strap problem. Two symptoms together point to (in no particular order) A) a short between the positive and ground somewhere in the path of the positive cable, B) a fault in the positive cable somewhere between the alternator and the CE panel, or C) a fault in the grounding common to the CE panel and the dash display (there isn't one...).
A battery loose in the battery box would qualify under (A), if the positive shorted to the lid momentarily. There would be some obvious weld spatter and scarring on the lid.
A fault in the front-of-engine harness between the alternator and the jump post is more likely, especially if the harness itself is already pretty crispy. Sean R is making new ones for Roger, and I think Carl has a fab'd replacement too as an alternative if a factory piece isn't available.
The connection at the jump post itself deserves a hard look. Make sure ALL the connectors there are clean, and the bolt through them is tight. Vaseline on that area after assembly might slow the corrosion devils, and of course you must have the post cover installed to keep water off of the post and the 14-pin. Look at the ends of the cables connected to the jump post, with an eye to any corrosion.
In the end, something caused a complete loss of power to the CE panel. The engine dropped out on loss of ignition and fuel. The digital display reset when power came back, evidenced by the displayed firmware codes.
Intermittent faults like this are tough to find. Look for other evidence of poor connections all along the way between alternator and CE panel. Look for insulation damage, discoloration, etc., on power wiring. If the problem is in fact a fault to ground in the front of the car, there's a lot of collateral damage available when things get serious about melting insulation and wires accidentally connecting together. Faults like this never heal themselves either.
A battery loose in the battery box would qualify under (A), if the positive shorted to the lid momentarily. There would be some obvious weld spatter and scarring on the lid.
A fault in the front-of-engine harness between the alternator and the jump post is more likely, especially if the harness itself is already pretty crispy. Sean R is making new ones for Roger, and I think Carl has a fab'd replacement too as an alternative if a factory piece isn't available.
The connection at the jump post itself deserves a hard look. Make sure ALL the connectors there are clean, and the bolt through them is tight. Vaseline on that area after assembly might slow the corrosion devils, and of course you must have the post cover installed to keep water off of the post and the 14-pin. Look at the ends of the cables connected to the jump post, with an eye to any corrosion.
In the end, something caused a complete loss of power to the CE panel. The engine dropped out on loss of ignition and fuel. The digital display reset when power came back, evidenced by the displayed firmware codes.
Intermittent faults like this are tough to find. Look for other evidence of poor connections all along the way between alternator and CE panel. Look for insulation damage, discoloration, etc., on power wiring. If the problem is in fact a fault to ground in the front of the car, there's a lot of collateral damage available when things get serious about melting insulation and wires accidentally connecting together. Faults like this never heal themselves either.
Last edited by dr bob; 11-01-2014 at 06:58 PM. Reason: don't know my alphabet that well without singing, apparently.
11-01-2014, 07:00 PM
#11
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Think one shorted the battery? Would have to a Very Large key. There's nothing in the ignition switch that would cause those symptoms, unless the whole 30 bus was grounded. There would be smoke and that particular fragrance that indicates burned insulation.
11-03-2014, 11:22 AM
#12
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Thank you!! All
Sorry for the late reply:
So after reading all your advice. I went in and had a look at the suggested areas of the problem. I refreshed this whole car so I am pretty confident in its condition. That said, I know a nut backing off somewhere would likely be an issue. As it turns out it was a loose connection at the Jump Post. It actually caused the Jump post cover to melt around the posts screw. Now I need a new plastic cover
Prior to this happening I had noticed the stereo was resetting it self on occasion and the voltage gauge was showing a little less than 12 volts when the car was running. I cleaned up the connections (again) and Deoxit it.
Thank you all for taking the time to offer advice
This place it pretty cool
So after reading all your advice. I went in and had a look at the suggested areas of the problem. I refreshed this whole car so I am pretty confident in its condition. That said, I know a nut backing off somewhere would likely be an issue. As it turns out it was a loose connection at the Jump Post. It actually caused the Jump post cover to melt around the posts screw. Now I need a new plastic cover
Prior to this happening I had noticed the stereo was resetting it self on occasion and the voltage gauge was showing a little less than 12 volts when the car was running. I cleaned up the connections (again) and Deoxit it.
Thank you all for taking the time to offer advice
This place it pretty cool