Help needed: oil pan gasket weepy Bethesda MD
#1
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Help needed: oil pan gasket weepy Bethesda MD
Hello 928er's,
I'm Tim, I'm new to porsche repair and maintenance, but have jumped in headfirst and have the bruises to show for it! I just finished a 2 weekend long timing belt/wp update on my new (to me) shark. While under the car I noticed the oil pan was weeping, and an automatic transmission cooling line also leaking. My plan is to address these two issues (and maybe an intake refresh with new fuel lines) in the coming weeks (weekends), maybe late November...
I'm not sure what tools I need to do these job. I have some basic tools (torque wrenches, socket sets, a jack, some stands, and wheel ramps...) but I don't have an engine hoist or similar contraption for holding the engine up, which might be important for oil pan gasket swaps...
That said, I would really appreciate a mentor/consultation and maybe the opportunity to borrow a hoist of some sort. Also, I live near the Strathmore in Kensington/Garrett Park/North Bethesda, in Maryland.
Thanks,
Tim
I'm Tim, I'm new to porsche repair and maintenance, but have jumped in headfirst and have the bruises to show for it! I just finished a 2 weekend long timing belt/wp update on my new (to me) shark. While under the car I noticed the oil pan was weeping, and an automatic transmission cooling line also leaking. My plan is to address these two issues (and maybe an intake refresh with new fuel lines) in the coming weeks (weekends), maybe late November...
I'm not sure what tools I need to do these job. I have some basic tools (torque wrenches, socket sets, a jack, some stands, and wheel ramps...) but I don't have an engine hoist or similar contraption for holding the engine up, which might be important for oil pan gasket swaps...
That said, I would really appreciate a mentor/consultation and maybe the opportunity to borrow a hoist of some sort. Also, I live near the Strathmore in Kensington/Garrett Park/North Bethesda, in Maryland.
Thanks,
Tim
#2
You'll probably want to change your motor mounts while you're in there since you need to lift the engine anyways and you can also drop the cross member and clean/inspect around there.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/MotorMounts.htm
http://www.nichols.nu/tip427.htm
I actually live in Maryland also with my early '86. I have yet to see another local Montgomery County 928. If you see a gold/bronzish 928SI forget the actual color, with two patched and primed dents on either side of the back that's probably me.
We've got a lot of experienced 928ers in the DMV area mostly in Virginia. For any shop work I would suggest AutoSport Systems Group. They're top notch guys there. Did awesome fabrication work on my exhaust install. Had some tricky work with another owner's transmission but they got it sorted out and had it running beautifully for when they supercharged it. http://www.autosportsystems.net/
I plan on taking out and rebuilding my engine next year. No engine stand or hoist yet but I plan on purchasing a stand.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/MotorMounts.htm
http://www.nichols.nu/tip427.htm
I actually live in Maryland also with my early '86. I have yet to see another local Montgomery County 928. If you see a gold/bronzish 928SI forget the actual color, with two patched and primed dents on either side of the back that's probably me.
We've got a lot of experienced 928ers in the DMV area mostly in Virginia. For any shop work I would suggest AutoSport Systems Group. They're top notch guys there. Did awesome fabrication work on my exhaust install. Had some tricky work with another owner's transmission but they got it sorted out and had it running beautifully for when they supercharged it. http://www.autosportsystems.net/
I plan on taking out and rebuilding my engine next year. No engine stand or hoist yet but I plan on purchasing a stand.
#3
Rennlist Member
Hi Tim,
Welcome to the group. I'm in Potomac and besides me, I know of at least two other MoCo guys, each owning a few 928s, so you're not alone.
I assume you missed this year's Frenzy, otherwise you probably would have already had answers for your questions
If you're trying to do everything on your own, on a very fixed budget that wouldn't allow for the help of a garage or local mechanic, I can't really give you advice on your job. However if you're not opposed to getting some help from a very capable, honest and very reasonable local (NoVA) mechanic who specializes in 928s, you should get in touch with Kevin Lacy (KLVA on this forum). He sometimes does housecalls!
Here's Kevin's card:
Welcome to the group. I'm in Potomac and besides me, I know of at least two other MoCo guys, each owning a few 928s, so you're not alone.
I assume you missed this year's Frenzy, otherwise you probably would have already had answers for your questions
If you're trying to do everything on your own, on a very fixed budget that wouldn't allow for the help of a garage or local mechanic, I can't really give you advice on your job. However if you're not opposed to getting some help from a very capable, honest and very reasonable local (NoVA) mechanic who specializes in 928s, you should get in touch with Kevin Lacy (KLVA on this forum). He sometimes does housecalls!
Here's Kevin's card:
#5
You can call me Otis
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Hello, had same issue, I found that all of the oil pan bolts were loose, two were backed way out, I snugged all of them up, this helped, but a new gasket will be required to solve the problem.
#6
Rennlist Member
Fix that transmission line first. Transmission fluid is highly combustible and those lines usually leak down onto the exhaust increasing the chance for fire. Usually, you can fix those transmission lines pretty easily.
Next, get to know all the knowledgable 928'ers around where you live, and offer beer and brats or pizza or burgers in exchange for help to do the motor mounts and pan gasket and sump seal (inside the pan). The food is not so important as the beer IMHO. You should be able to easily knock it out in less than a day with help.
Next, get to know all the knowledgable 928'ers around where you live, and offer beer and brats or pizza or burgers in exchange for help to do the motor mounts and pan gasket and sump seal (inside the pan). The food is not so important as the beer IMHO. You should be able to easily knock it out in less than a day with help.
#7
Team Owner
well if you feel like writing a check,
drive up to Philly drop it off with a list of things you want fixed,
and then take the train back home.
I will let you know when you can come pick it up
drive up to Philly drop it off with a list of things you want fixed,
and then take the train back home.
I will let you know when you can come pick it up
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#8
Race Car
I'm happy to vouch for Stan's services in this regard^^...we'll see about setting him to work on those marketing skills...
;-)
Pretty cool that someone still takes checks in this day and age.
;-)
Pretty cool that someone still takes checks in this day and age.
#9
Chronic Tool Dropper
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+928 on Stan's capabilities and enthusiasm. But he tells everybody how to do stuff themselves. ??? What kind of marketing is that?
Seriously, if you want it done correctly, you just can't go wrong leaving it with Stan. He had a nice business going in Colorado, them moved east to help out his folks. Great guy!
Seriously, if you want it done correctly, you just can't go wrong leaving it with Stan. He had a nice business going in Colorado, them moved east to help out his folks. Great guy!
#10
Rennlist Member
If you want to do the work, it isn't bad. You will need a few tools for timing belt job that aren't in the standard drawer. A fly wheel lock is one of them. You can borrow one from one of the local guys. A big breaker bar and 27mm socket to get the front bolt off, and a belt tension tool to check tension. Just accumulate as you go. Especially if you like to do most of the work yourself.
Some things to think about -
First, the oil pan bolts have a very low torque value - they do loosen. Just tweak them tight a bit, and the weeping goes away. I do not believe a new oil pan gasket and all of the major work that goes with it is always in order.
Second, related to the above, if you do decide to replace the gasket then motor mounts would be a good idea - maybe - it depends on what year your car is. Very early cars have solid motor mounts, and do not fail. So don't pull up the motor for those. What year is yor car? Put it in your signature.
Next, as others have said, tranny fluid is very combustable when it hits a hot exhaust. Fix those lines before doing anything else. Likewise with your power steering lines. They are likely leaky too, since everything else is. Also, the power steering uses tranny fluid, so more reason to fix. These are not hard jobs, just tedious.
Along the same lines (pun intended), do the fuel lines now as well. Easy job, obvious reason to fix now.
These are all very doable winter projects, and there is lots of help on this forum and the other tech resources (Dwayne's Garage write ups are a must). And lastly, if you don't want to do all of these jobs, you cannot go wrong with either Stan or Kevin. You are very lucky to live near those guys.
Some things to think about -
First, the oil pan bolts have a very low torque value - they do loosen. Just tweak them tight a bit, and the weeping goes away. I do not believe a new oil pan gasket and all of the major work that goes with it is always in order.
Second, related to the above, if you do decide to replace the gasket then motor mounts would be a good idea - maybe - it depends on what year your car is. Very early cars have solid motor mounts, and do not fail. So don't pull up the motor for those. What year is yor car? Put it in your signature.
Next, as others have said, tranny fluid is very combustable when it hits a hot exhaust. Fix those lines before doing anything else. Likewise with your power steering lines. They are likely leaky too, since everything else is. Also, the power steering uses tranny fluid, so more reason to fix. These are not hard jobs, just tedious.
Along the same lines (pun intended), do the fuel lines now as well. Easy job, obvious reason to fix now.
These are all very doable winter projects, and there is lots of help on this forum and the other tech resources (Dwayne's Garage write ups are a must). And lastly, if you don't want to do all of these jobs, you cannot go wrong with either Stan or Kevin. You are very lucky to live near those guys.
#12
Rennlist Member
Another vote for Kevin or Stan.
Roger Tyson has fuel line kit. IIRC he carries his own kit and Greg Brown's. If you can pay more, Greg's is top rated. Greg also sells a transx line kit, just the rubber parts and compression clamps, with instructions. You will need the special pliers for those clamps, available elsewhere. I assume Roger has that kit too or you may have to order direct from Greg at Precision Motorwerks; search here for his contact. The exhaust will have to be dropped to get to the connections at rear. Take your time, it's all fun and games, really. Really it is. You'll get used to seeing your car up on stands for the entire winter, put Stabilant in tank before you gut her, Welcome, and good luck.
Roger Tyson has fuel line kit. IIRC he carries his own kit and Greg Brown's. If you can pay more, Greg's is top rated. Greg also sells a transx line kit, just the rubber parts and compression clamps, with instructions. You will need the special pliers for those clamps, available elsewhere. I assume Roger has that kit too or you may have to order direct from Greg at Precision Motorwerks; search here for his contact. The exhaust will have to be dropped to get to the connections at rear. Take your time, it's all fun and games, really. Really it is. You'll get used to seeing your car up on stands for the entire winter, put Stabilant in tank before you gut her, Welcome, and good luck.