Electrical Question about the Printed Circuit Board
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Electrical Question about the Printed Circuit Board
Hello my favorite forum!
I'm back with another question. I have a 1982 928 Euro S, in case you guys were wondering. I recently sent my printed circuit board off to the Wizard of Oz to get it repaired after I installed LED lights and they did not work. Oz stated that he tested everything and it worked before sending back.
Now I'm installing the dash back into the car. And I'm having a problem -- I've gotten everything on the instrument cluster to work except the speedometer, odometer, and turn signals when blinkers are on.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram, to know which of the three plugs (or even which strip in each plug) does what. I'd like to know what is screwed up.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Some electrical problems I didn't even know were related to the printed circuit board were fixed with this repair (for example, the license plate light now suddenly works). I'm hoping to get this finally fixed!
I'm back with another question. I have a 1982 928 Euro S, in case you guys were wondering. I recently sent my printed circuit board off to the Wizard of Oz to get it repaired after I installed LED lights and they did not work. Oz stated that he tested everything and it worked before sending back.
Now I'm installing the dash back into the car. And I'm having a problem -- I've gotten everything on the instrument cluster to work except the speedometer, odometer, and turn signals when blinkers are on.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram, to know which of the three plugs (or even which strip in each plug) does what. I'd like to know what is screwed up.
Any help is greatly appreciated! Some electrical problems I didn't even know were related to the printed circuit board were fixed with this repair (for example, the license plate light now suddenly works). I'm hoping to get this finally fixed!
#2
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I've never heard of Wizard of Oz, just tried to look them up. I sent mine off to Holleywood Speedometer and it came back the same but with a long deep scratch in the instrument lens. They wanted $300 for the "repair". Once i sent it back they obviously didn't charge me. I was surprised by this. looking forward to hearing if they actually repaired your printed circuit.
To your question, carfully clean the plug connectors that plug to your cluster. Also look to see if the tiny fingers that make the connection to the printed circuit are not bent or not making contact. If you look closely at this connection area on the printed circuit, it is labeled (as to which device it make connection with).
BTW, Mr Merlin often recommends DeOxit for this cleaning.
To your question, carfully clean the plug connectors that plug to your cluster. Also look to see if the tiny fingers that make the connection to the printed circuit are not bent or not making contact. If you look closely at this connection area on the printed circuit, it is labeled (as to which device it make connection with).
BTW, Mr Merlin often recommends DeOxit for this cleaning.
#3
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The license plate light now working wasn't related to the pod work - just a lucky coincidence.
You need to get a copy of the manuals - contact Roger at 928sRus (ROG100) he can fix you up with a set on CD-ROM pretty inexpensively - you simply cannot maintain these cars without them.
Speedometer is 2L, Turn signals 12L
Alan
You need to get a copy of the manuals - contact Roger at 928sRus (ROG100) he can fix you up with a set on CD-ROM pretty inexpensively - you simply cannot maintain these cars without them.
Speedometer is 2L, Turn signals 12L
Alan
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Wizard of Oz was just a joke, as it took forever to find someone to do the work. I think it was Hollywood as well, but I'd have to check to confirm. My price point was much lower at $150, though. But they told me they mostly found a 98% in tact circuit board and replaced my old one. And they also fixed the mileage gear, which had broken.
I do have the manuals, but have had problems finding what page it is on. But it's good to know it is in there, I'll keep looking.
Additionally, the MPG gauge stays at the max reading once the key is on. And the middle light of the three LEDs is no longer getting power.
Also, it may be a coincidence but it seems rather strange. I've tried fixing the license plate light for several years and through the course of that, I've removed and put the dash in several times. But maybe I hit a wire I normally avoided this time, who knows.
I've been using Stabilant 22A on the connections.
I do have the manuals, but have had problems finding what page it is on. But it's good to know it is in there, I'll keep looking.
Additionally, the MPG gauge stays at the max reading once the key is on. And the middle light of the three LEDs is no longer getting power.
Also, it may be a coincidence but it seems rather strange. I've tried fixing the license plate light for several years and through the course of that, I've removed and put the dash in several times. But maybe I hit a wire I normally avoided this time, who knows.
I've been using Stabilant 22A on the connections.
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Ooops, maybe we are looking at different material. The instrument cluster is in Section 90 of the book I have. Page numbers are the section followed by page number in the section (for example 90-10). I found one page which labels the plugs in the convention you used, but all pages after that are fuse and relay related.
Also, although the speedometer doesn't work it surges up and goes back to zero. Any idea what could cause that?
Also, although the speedometer doesn't work it surges up and goes back to zero. Any idea what could cause that?
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Wiring Diagrams are Section 97 in my (mostly) USA Workshop Manual, and 97-139 is correct for the '82 instrument cluster. No idea about a Euro, though.
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The license plate lights are connected to the main light switch in the same way the fog lights and instrument lights are - it is very unlikely the pod caused any of these issues - unless it also affected all of these.
If it happens again - check for power at the bottom of fuse #3 when the lights are on? then check the top of fuse#3 (the output). If you have power at both of these the issue is certainly NOT in the pod.
If you can't find the right page in the documents you have - just get the full thing from Roger.
Alan
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Appreciate the insight Alan! I found the pages on the CD Rom -- I had printed out the CD ages ago, but must have missed a section. I'm trying to make sure I'm reading these diagrams correctly. If the lines from several points (2M, 3L, 13R, whatever they may be) all connect to a guage, that means they all are required to have it work, correct? Is there any other symbols I should understand on this, as I'm a newbie at looking at wiring diagrams (for example, I don't know what the different circles mean whether it has an X in it or just a diagonal line).
Appreciate the insight on the fuses. When it warms up soon, I plan on tackling these issues. The connector for one of the plugs being broken is a real PITA, because it doesn't stay snug when I put it back in the car. I'm going to try to figure out a way to fix it.
Appreciate the insight on the fuses. When it warms up soon, I plan on tackling these issues. The connector for one of the plugs being broken is a real PITA, because it doesn't stay snug when I put it back in the car. I'm going to try to figure out a way to fix it.
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Strange question, but are you sure you have the two right connectors on the correct spots? The wiring harness on my 82 would allow you to mix up those two plugs. Similar symptoms when I messed these up.
Just a thought. Sometimes it is an easy fix, I tend to try too hard thinking about all that could be wrong and don't always try the easy stuff.
Best of luck.
Just a thought. Sometimes it is an easy fix, I tend to try too hard thinking about all that could be wrong and don't always try the easy stuff.
Best of luck.
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Strange question, but are you sure you have the two right connectors on the correct spots? The wiring harness on my 82 would allow you to mix up those two plugs. Similar symptoms when I messed these up.
Just a thought. Sometimes it is an easy fix, I tend to try too hard thinking about all that could be wrong and don't always try the easy stuff.
Best of luck.
Just a thought. Sometimes it is an easy fix, I tend to try too hard thinking about all that could be wrong and don't always try the easy stuff.
Best of luck.
#13
Hey Guys,
I have a problem with my odometer as well, I've been trying to understand the manuals and the page assignments mentioned in the response. my section 97 only goes to 97-011, very confusing!
I have a problem with my odometer as well, I've been trying to understand the manuals and the page assignments mentioned in the response. my section 97 only goes to 97-011, very confusing!
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The sections in 97 refer to the wiring portion of the speedo and such, but not the mechanical. Odometer failure is most commonly caused by a failed gear in pre-'89 cars. You don't mention the year of your car in your post, although I hope I can safely infer from your avatar pic that it isn't '89+.
Try a search on odometer gear replacement and get some guidance. There are aftermarket gears available, plus services like the before-mentioned Hollywood Speedometer can do that bit of surgery for you.
(I recommend membership, so you can add the year/model description to a signature line. Else you need to put those details in Every Post you make.)
Try a search on odometer gear replacement and get some guidance. There are aftermarket gears available, plus services like the before-mentioned Hollywood Speedometer can do that bit of surgery for you.
(I recommend membership, so you can add the year/model description to a signature line. Else you need to put those details in Every Post you make.)