bureau13

I'm assuming this is something in the handle assembly, and that I just need to take it apart and look but any gotchas here that I need to be wary of?

Basically, if I pull up on the handle, it does apply the brake, but the handle won't stay up. Whatever ratcheting mechanism that holds it until you push the button, doesn't work. Oh, and that button...it's there, but just sitting in the handle loose. It falls out all the time.

('86.5 5-speed)

rnixon

Sounds like you have a broken spring. I've never needed to dismantle a handbrake though.

bureau13

Roger sent me an exploded diagram of the whole assembly, so I just need to get in there and see I guess. A spring sounds reasonable, probably one of several things in there that's not right.

dr bob

The little bellcrank thingy with the teeth on one side sometimes gets rolled over, possible with stretched cables, worn shoes or failed actuator cam(s), or cable housings disconnected (front bottom face of rear crossmember), any or all combined with a too-hard yank on the handle. The whole system is amazingly simple in the end, but has lots of possible failure points that could cause your symptoms. The handle diagram is a start. Supplement that with the WSM and more importantly the rest of the PET drawings that show best how it all works together.

Take lots of pics as you work, please.

Mrmerlin

after you get the handle fixed here is how to adjust your E brake.
This is based on the fact that you have a good set of shoes inside the rotors.
And that you have verified that the 4 shoe springs are grabbing a rib on the rearside of the hub carrier.

with the wheels off and the handle released,
spin the adjuster till the rotor wont move then lightly set the E brake then release it.
Do this for each side.
Then spin the adjusters back 3 clicks each side this should have the rotors turning with minimum drag,
the handle should then lock the rotors with just 2 to 3 clicks, normally 2 clicks will be enough to hold the car on a flat surface.

G8RB8

Mine used to do the same thing. The pawl was stuck. It's a pretty simple mechanism. Just take it apart, you'll find the problem.

bureau13

Good info guys, thanks!

Randy V

Then spray it down with some DeOxit.

Mrmerlin

Randy if you dont quit your misbehavin I am going to spray you with DeOxit,
that should remove some of your corrosion, and enhance your connectivity.

RKD in OKC

Last time I did an autocross I wanted to temporarily disable the parking brake catch so I could use the brake to get the rear end to rotate on really tight turns. Just held the button in.

Randy V

bureau13

Wait...so I WASN'T supposed to spray deoxit all over my e-brake mechanism?

Lol KIDDING...

bureau13

OK, I hate stupid stuff like this...HOW do you get the hand brake out??? The WSM just basically says to remove it, but I need the carpeted piece around it that also holds the hatch release and fader to not be there. I feel like there has to be a simpler way than removing the entire carpet piece on that side. I can pull up on the "hand brake housing" or whatever it is on the front side, but I don't see a way to get it up and out of the way entirely.

G8RB8

On mine the cover was attached by two screws that were very hard to find. Feel around the front and back of the cover to find them. The grip is a slip fit. Just pull it off.

bureau13

I gave up on the cover (honestly, I see no way to take this off without removing the entire piece behind it, I'm baffled) but pulled off the grip for a better look at the mechanical bits. Whatever spring type of thing is supposed to hold the pawl against the "toothed element" is not working, or not there...but I can't tell from the WSM exploded diagram what part that is. If I pull up on the handle, and with my hand move the pawl so that engages, everything is fine. If I put the button and the long spring in the handle back in, I can even disengage it properly, but then to get it to re-engage I have to do it manually again. Which piece is supposed to put pressure on it, which is then "relieved" when I push the button?

I tried to attach the PET exploded diagram from Roger but it wouldn't let me.