smyth1

my 87 has basecoat clearcoat paint .hood,doors,roof and rr quarter look great.front fenders front and rear bumpers lr quarter are junk.i'm undecided on painting whole car or just parts that need it.removed bumpers and going to strip bad parts.is there a good single stage I should use instead of bc,cc?if I decide to do the whole car should I strip down everything to bare or leave what is good scuff and paint over?thanks.

The Patman

i had the exact same issue. most of body good, with a couple of rough areas that i thought id paint to match.
well you'd be surprised how fast red, in my case, fades in the sun...and mine is only out when i drive it! anyway, trying to match the door jambs and sills was a no-go. second, nowadays, the uv protection is all in the clearcoat. as it the rock protection.

as for the taking it down to metal part...i don't think it's necessary if all the paint is still adhered to the metal. the factory guys had a decent rust protection program and if you can preserve that all the better.

here's mine just before they pulled the hood and stuff, and just after they put it all back on.
basecoat clearcoat...

smyth1

nice,i was told by a few body shops the bumpers have to come off because of the gasket.haw did yours come out with the bumpers on?

The Patman

Truth is, I actually paid extra to have that gasket sanded, primed with a flex agent and...well...ummm...you know...painted!

Oh c'mon! Now think about it...ever notice how slick the black cars look? Well that's because they have no "lines".

The seams in the doors, and the seams in the hood and hatch, and yes, the seams in the gaskets in the bumpers are all...black. All body color. So the black cars don't have the little black lines running here and there. (oh they're there, but ya just don't notice.)

Anyway, I had mine painted body color. Yes, red. Don't judge.

Otherwise, pull the bumpers and replace the gasket or hire the best shop ya can who can paint it a nice satin black after the body is painted.
They can be masked. They can.

Oh yeah, the method was to paint the black gaskets after the body is done. Right now, actually yesterday, they painted all the black bits. From window surrounds to windshield wipers and grille & lock bodies, it all gets a coat of satin black. Had I decided to leave it black, we were gonna pull the bumpers and replace it with new, but in my case I was having an interior thing and didn't get it to paint until we only had 6 days to do the whole job. so no bumper pull for me.
What he woulda done would be to paint that gasket ( mine was a bit gray) at the same time he did the black bits. So. After body paint they can come back and mask a nice straight line and put a nice coat or two of satin black on those things.

Dean_Fuller

Need sealer over old paint really ( so theres no reaction )...then primer and paint.

What color is your car?

smyth1

my color is the onyx black.i am going to strip the front fenders and any other place where the clear is flaking off.also going to strip bumpers.that gasket is actually stapled to the bumper so I may not take it off.i was thinking of doing the whole car in matt black.still have a lot of time to decide on that .

The Fixer

I don't know if your car has its original failing clear or not.

I would assume it is original clear if failing. Mine was failing at the lower doors and my drivers rear quarter had been resprayed due to minor ding etc., like many 928s with mostly original finish.

My advice (and this isn't snark) if you have to ask for paint tips, don't paint your 928.

having said that, if you decide to torture yourself you do not have to take all of the original paint off to bare metal. Sand off the failing clear and primer seal.

also take off the bumper covers. if you do not you are not getting the most out of the paint job. it isn't hard, just re staple or glue on new gaskets they are very inexpensive.

You could also take the car apart (bumper covers) prep it and then bring the well prepped car to one of those inexpensive paint outfits (Maaco?) that paint well but don't prep well.

You could get very good results this way.

Good luck

andyww

I would remove the bumpers. Makes it much easier. The news rubber is cheap and easy to install. I just finished painting mine. Not sure why you would want single stage. Base coat, clear coat is much easier and some 1500 grit followed by a buffer makes for a guaranteed great job.

The Fixer

+100

Fogey1

Paint thread!! Getchur paint thread here!!

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...nt-begins.html

UpFixenDerPorsche

Always use high quality brushes.

(just me in a ratty mood). LOL.

UpFixenDerPorsche

You Americans don't do "humour" do you?

Siggghhh.

smyth1

i have used a lot of imron for engine parts and wheels and find it pretty indestuctable,why not use it for a whole car?leaning towards doing the whole car just for the benefit of removing the rub strip.i plan on using the aircraft stripper on metat and sem bumper strip for plastics.any one have any luck with either of these.

alabbasi

I don't think that they need to come off completely, but instead pulled slightly forward so that the gaskets can be masked.

That's been a concern for my on my car. Pat, as you're local, I'm interested in seeing what the car looks like after leaving the paint booth.

dr bob

I've painted a few things with Imron. The most important thing to consider is that there's no forgiveness for any mistakes. Leave a little orange peel? Learn to live with it. Sag or run? Get used to it. There's no color sanding or polishing it out. The two-step systems available now are very forgiving. You put color on to get color, follow that with clear to get the protection and gloss you want. Imron requires some substantial breathing gear when you spray it, including a full mask and independent air supply. Modern systems are water-borne until you get to the clear coat (on some), and air dry without heat.