Livio928

In the process of re-assembling my engine, I installed a new CPS but it didn't slide in very easily and i had to tap it in place. This is after I lightly sanded the interior surface and cleaned it. Now that I am trying to get the engine started I have narrowed the no start down to a faulty or incorrectly installed CPS (at least that is what I hope is the problem).

Computers (LH and EZK) work fine, relay amplifier, connections to CE panel are correct, and rotors are installed correctly. Some of these items were tested on known properly running donor car. The spark would start for one or two revolutions upon turning the key and it almost seems like the engine wants to start but then no spark after that. I interpret this to be that the connections are correct via the harnesses and the computers, but they are probably not geting the proper signal from the CPS. When I installed the CPS, the 'O' ring migrated up to the top of the sensor and it moved the distance for the sensor just enough so that I can't ready the crank plate.

Easy fix right? Wrong, we couldn't get the CPS out of position no matter how much pulling, twisting, prying (if you could only get a tool in there to do that) would remove the sensor. We were able to only raise it about 5 mm then it absolutely wouldn't budge. In the course of getting serious, the lead and wire broke off and now I have to remove the cylinder sensor out on its own.

I have two options that I can think of to remove it.

1. remove the bell housing, clutch, crank plate and ream the sensor from Inside to the top of the block (lots of work)
2. drill the sensor out then cut the stainless steel casing with a dremel like tool, but the drill bits I was using barely even scratched the surface of the cylinder.

I was told that the sensor should easily slide in and out of the block. The original sensor was encrusted onto the block and had to be drilled and reamed out but it was much easier when it was a bare block out of the chassis.

Any other ideas on how to remove it and should I use anti-seize on it next time I install it? Should I sand the surface more?

Any other ideas why the engine may not start? I have fuel to the rails but the pressure doesn't register on the fuel gauge I had set up. I just replaced the fuel pump with a new 044 pump and the relay set up a la GB. Could a faulty internal fuel pump cause a lack of pressure or starve the pressure from the 044 pump?

Imo000

Livio. Concentrate on the ignition first. There is plenty of gas in the engine. Did you try high speed steel drill bits?

Livio928

Rod is coming by with his bit set. Mine wouldn't even scratch the surface. Once we get the CPS replaced (thankfully i have double of everything) it SHOULD start even with starved fuel. At least that is what I would think. Everything else checked out... unless I have a short somewhere in the harness.

Livio928

update:

I tried to use regular HSS bits, I broke a Cobalt bit, and I am now using a hybrid HSS bit, but due to the awkward location of the pin, the angle of the drill to drill it out, and the hardness of the sensor, I am wondering if there is an easier alternative. My other option is to drop the bell housing, remove the clutch and Crank plate then bang the pin out into the bell housing area, but that is a last option.

Any other ideas of how to remove a CPS pin?

Hilton

Drop the clutch before you damage the top of the bell housing.

The clutch pack in a 928 comes out *easily* - just make the shims out of 3mm-thick aluminium, remove bell housing, add shims, and unbolt the clamp and guide tube. Its less than an hour to remove, and the same to put back in.

You'll spend more time than that just trying to dig out bits of broken sensor.

928 at last

Livio,
Can you get any grip on it at all?

Livio928

Very ackward position to get any grip. We tried using vice grips, but it will NOT move anymore. It moved about 4-5 mm but now it won't budge. Can't figure out why. Something is terribly wrong for it to get stuck as hard as it is in there. I am hoping that when this is repaired, it will be the answer to all of the start problems I am having.

Mrmerlin

please post pictures

Ben

Mine was a PITA to remove as well. The top flanged section broke off when I was trying to remove it, and trying to pull it out by using vise grips on the central magnet didn't work either.

I drilled and dug out with a soldering iron as much of the remaining plastic as I could, snapped off the magnet so it wasn't in the way, and bashed the remains of the sensor downwards with a drift and mallet until it touched the flywheel. Then I rotated the engine by hand, and the remains of the sensor got drawn in between the flywheel and engine. I was then able to use a bit of wire to fish it out of a gap underneath on either side of the flywheel.

Maybe not the most elegant way, but it worked for me.

Livio928

MrMerlin, photos are on their way. Ben, I am a little concern for damaging the flywheel by doing that. As mentioned by Hilton, in two hours or so I can have the clutch and flywheel removed and re-installed without having a threat to damage the flywheel or anything else.

I can't believe how hard the steel is on the sensor since it barely has a scratch on it from the drill bits. I still can't figure out why it is so stuck in there. It was a brand new sensor and I cleaned out the hole before installing it. I didn't think that it would be a problem when I had to tap it in place with installing it until Rod told me that it should easily slide in and out of the hole during installation.

Ben

If you can remove the clutch etc then go for it, then there is absolutely no risk of damaging the toothed ring.

Was more tricky for me... It's an automatic.

Imo000

Probably the end of the sensor muchroomed out. I think maybe it was too long and hit the toothed ring.

928 at last

Have you tried heat?
If what Imre suggests has happened, you've likely only one solution though.

Livio928

Finally got the CPS out! Had to drop clutch and flywheel to remove. I did a thorough cleaning with sandpaper in the hole and then with a stainless steel wire pipe brush that my business neighbour makes. Sensor slides in nice and starts to bind slightly once the o ring starts. I will use a silicone grease so that the o ring can slide nice and easiliy down the hole. The whole process of removing the clutch and installing it took 3 1/2 hours. Now I have to button up all of the fuel hoses and re-install the new CPS.

I pray to the engine gods that the CPS was the problem of my no start.

928 at last

Livio,
As a port-mortem, any indication as to why it was so jammed in the housing?