Aluminum ball-joint replacement, MY78-83 - Technical Bulletin (TSB) 84-01
#1
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Aluminum ball-joint replacement, MY78-83 - Technical Bulletin (TSB) 84-01
In an effort to consolidate, simplify and inform new early 928 owners...
Here's the quick run-down on aluminum lower ball-joint (LBJ) replacement. MY78-83 affected, up to VIN ES 92 860404
These early cars need their original aluminum LBJ's replaced with steel.
For more info: http://928classics.com/4/post/2014/1...ent-78-83.html
Here's the quick run-down on aluminum lower ball-joint (LBJ) replacement. MY78-83 affected, up to VIN ES 92 860404
These early cars need their original aluminum LBJ's replaced with steel.
For more info: http://928classics.com/4/post/2014/1...ent-78-83.html
#6
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Here are some pics of both, with one pic of the steel one showing the dimensions of the eccentric hole, which illustrates it takes two of the same eccentrics, compared to the aluminium ones which have different sizes. As the steel housing is thinner, it means that the stud protrudes a bit more if you use the original bracket, and not the later one.
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#8
In an effort to consolidate, simplify and inform new early 928 owners...
Here's the quick run-down on aluminum lower ball-joint (LBJ) replacement. MY78-83 affected, up to VIN ES 92 860404
These early cars need their original aluminum LBJ's replaced with steel.
For more info: http://928classics.com/4/post/2014/1...ent-78-83.html
Here's the quick run-down on aluminum lower ball-joint (LBJ) replacement. MY78-83 affected, up to VIN ES 92 860404
These early cars need their original aluminum LBJ's replaced with steel.
For more info: http://928classics.com/4/post/2014/1...ent-78-83.html
Is this paragraph from your link, correct?
"As outlined in Technical Bulletin (TSB) 84-01, early 928s from September 1983 (from VIN ES 92 860404) were fitted with aluminum lower ball-joints which need to be replaced with steel."
tino
#9
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AFAIK first ROW '84 which received steel joints at production line is not known. WP0JB0926ES860404 was number 344 out of 3007 US model made in '84 MY. This means first 11.4% got alu joints at production line.
There were 2016 ROW and 60 Japanise cars made during same model year. I think good questimate for ROW change is around VIN ES 92 840275 to 0350 and ES 92 849570 to 9580 for Japanise cars.
Though its not known if change was done at same time in ROW cars. In some cases like S brakes into 4.5L cars and different size front brake piston in '87 S4 change was done in ROW cars long before US model. So its possible this change also happened at different time.
#11
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"As outlined in Technical Bulletin (TSB) 84-01, early 928s from September 1983 (from VIN ES 92 860404) were fitted with aluminum lower ball-joints which need to be replaced with steel."
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#12
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I believe the description in the link, to correlate with the technical bulletin PDF snip shown below, should read .... "As outlined in Technical Bulletin (TSB) 84-01, early 928s up to September 1983 (up to VIN ES 92 860404) were fitted with aluminum lower ball-joints which need to be replaced with steel." ... (up to replacing from in both positions).
From that time and VIN they were steel with the different bracket and twin eccentrics.
From that time and VIN they were steel with the different bracket and twin eccentrics.
#13
#14
Burning Brakes
The worst part is that by taking off the ball joints, you are ruining the alignment. There are threads where some guys have tried different ways to get the alignment close until the suspension settles and you can get it to an alignment shop. If you don't get it close, you have to drive the car for a while until the suspension settles with bad alignment (not great) or get the alignment done twice, which is what I had to do (expensive).