Aluminum ball-joint replacement, MY78-83 - Technical Bulletin (TSB) 84-01
10-15-2014, 02:11 PM
#16
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I used a pickle fork to remove the ball joint from the control arm on one side. A "ball joint remover" from harbor freight lasted for one side, then snapped. The bolts were stuck on, I used a 4 ft. breaker bar and liquid wrench, no other issues.
The worst part is that by taking off the ball joints, you are ruining the alignment. There are threads where some guys have tried different ways to get the alignment close until the suspension settles and you can get it to an alignment shop. If you don't get it close, you have to drive the car for a while until the suspension settles with bad alignment (not great) or get the alignment done twice, which is what I had to do (expensive).
The worst part is that by taking off the ball joints, you are ruining the alignment. There are threads where some guys have tried different ways to get the alignment close until the suspension settles and you can get it to an alignment shop. If you don't get it close, you have to drive the car for a while until the suspension settles with bad alignment (not great) or get the alignment done twice, which is what I had to do (expensive).
10-23-2014, 11:31 AM
#18
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09-30-2019, 03:05 PM
#19
I know this is an ancient thread - I just today put steel ball joints on my '82 928 and am struck by the differences between the old BJ stud nut and the new one. The old one has a nice wide flange on it and is an all-steel locking nut. The new one looks like a standard nylock nut you would get at the hardware store. Is there a washer that I should use on the new nut? Or should I reuse the old nut? Thanks!
09-30-2019, 03:14 PM
#20
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No knowing which ball joints you used I can tell you that both the Porsche and aftermarket URO ball joints have a nylock nut.
I have never heard of one coming loose and there is not a washer used under the nut - you should be good to go.
I have never heard of one coming loose and there is not a washer used under the nut - you should be good to go.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
09-30-2019, 06:26 PM
#22
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I think you will have to back off on the factory recommended torque, if you use a nylon locknut or the old locknut. The resistance of the locking part of the nut is part of the torque specification....when using new nuts. I toss the nylox nuts in the trash and use the original style locknuts (new ones.)
(Ask Josh (ladybug83) how many brackets he broke the studs on trying to torque to the factory specifications.)
(Ask Josh (ladybug83) how many brackets he broke the studs on trying to torque to the factory specifications.)
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greg brown
714 879 9072
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
