docmirror

This thread will document my long, frustrating, and costly resolution to the track damage done back in '07. For the long version, one can hunt down my teardown back then and read through. Summary, I was coming out of a long straight into a tight right hand corner on the track, chasing and catching a 997 Turbo when my 2/6 rod bearing seized tight. Trailer home, start sourcing parts, begin engine rebuild, run into further issues, and finally parked it until today.

Moving forward, I have sourced a couple of engines for the car, and will be picking one up in the coming weeks. I took the car to the front yard, and washed about 3 years of goo off the body and started wiping down the interior which actually looks pretty good except for the shifter boot, and dash(typical).

Work done today:
Top of engine; remove cross brace, intake, air cleaner. Pull off the little vac lines around the intake, remove the throttle and cruise cables. Disconnect fuel delivery, and large vac hose.

Front of car; Remove fans, rad, big hoses, heater hose, disconnect coils, 14 pin, and alt cable.

Since it's been a while, I can't recall what the easiest way is to handle the accessories. I'm thinking I want to drop the AC pump, PS pump and leave the alt on the engine, but not sure. Someone can confirm that the alt comes out with the engine. I'm pretty sure the air pump stays on.

Tomorrow morning, I'm going underneath and get started on the exh, MM, clutch, bellhousing bolts, and maybe some pressure plate bolts if I get excited enough. It's going to be a long, slow process and that's ok cuz I've been waiting almost 7 years so a few more months won't make any difference.

Leon Speed

Make sure to post some pics of the process and the carnage, or do I need to log in on Reutterwerk.

ammonman

IIRC the A/C pump gets unbolted and moved out of the way/hung but all the other accessories stay on the engine for removal/installation. Just unbolt the two PS lines from the pump and remove the PS reservoir.

Mike

docmirror

K, I'll follow that.

No pics, I'm not a member anymore so can't add graphics. Sorry,,,

69gaugeman

Glad to see you are fixing it. Once you get back in you will be glad you did!

docmirror

Yeah, every time I drive out of the house, I get to look at it sitting on the trailer, bright red, it got depressing for a while. I had the 968 to keep me busy but now that it's gone, time to get back in the 928 saddle.

Today, underside: Clutch/PP bolts out, drive shaft pinch bolts out, exh loose, bellhousing off, clutch line off, starter loose but not out yet. Motor mount bolts out, AC pump down, all aux belts off, lower engine/bellhousing bolts off.

That took a good two hours working slow on my trailer. Next I guess I have to drop the steering rack to get the bottom motor mount bolts off, then push the steering rack back up in there. I can't find my articulating long 3/8 ratchet for the top bellhousing bolts so that's delayed.

Do I have to take those two little 10mm bolts out of the driveshaft coupling to get the engine out? There's a little flange coupling that is held in place by the 10mm bolts. The drive shaft slid back some, but not all the way. Wondering if I can leave it and get the engine forward some, but I don't think so. I think the short shaft has to come all the way back, and the clutch down first. Gah.

Kevin in Atlanta

Don't forget the the ground straps from the engine to the body.

Rob Edwards

Should not have to touch the steering rack or lower motor mount bolts, if you've already got the eight bolts out of the motor mount mounting plates that the engine rests on. Motor will have to go ~2" straight up before it can move forward at all.

When you say clutch/PP bolts out- you rotated the engine and loosened/removed the 9 PP bolts? The 10mm guide tube bolts need to be undone, so that you can move the intermediate shaft back far enough to drop the PP/clutch/TOB/guide tube sammich out of the bellhousing.

If you didn't shim the pressure plate it can be really tight to get the assembly out. And while you can't slide the engine forward, you might be able to undo all four bellhousing bolts and slide the bellhousing back far enough (1" or so) to get the intermediate shaft out of the pilot bearing. If so, the clutch assembly will be dangling on the release arm ball, make sure it's seated before levering the transmission/TT back (after undoing the transmission mount bolts, o' course...)

RE: accessories, I would just drop the alternator/PS pump cassette from the block first, rather than trying to get the PS pump and the air pump past the coil and upper engine strut bar brackets without scraping the crap out of everything.

docmirror

Yeah, all the PP bolts are out. I though I would have to take those two 10mm out, I seem to recall doing it last time. Then the intermediate shaft slides back enough to move things around.

I think I will leave the alt and PS pump in the car. It's a few bolts up there, but then I don't have to shift it over to the new engine later. They are clean, and ready to connect, so I'll just leave it in the chassis.

got the ground strap on the pass side, that's the only one I saw under there.

Rob Edwards

Should also be two additional ground straps up top, one from the rear of the drivers side cam cover to the coil bracket, and the other from the passenger side lift bracket to the coil bracket.

ROG100

Remember to make sure you get rid of that crap joke 5 speed and put a real 928 automatic gearbox in it.

docmirror

You need to be paying more attention to the lump forward of the trans there joker.

Rob Edwards

So Roger, riddle me this- why did Porsche have to triple the size of the brake pedal in the automatics? Were they worried that the dentists' wives might get flustered with their 50/50 shot at which pedal is the brake?

docmirror

OK, Rob got me directed right and I got that Alt/PS cassette down and out. Also got the two top ground straps done. Once I get that clutch yoke flange out, and the shaft back all I need is to do the top bellhousing bolts and the two group cables from the pass footwell.

Sadly - my typical shop area where I would do the swap is taken up with a dozen 928s a Merc and a 924 now, so I will have to do it at my house. Sigh,,,

69gaugeman

The nice thing about that, is if you want to just spend 20 minutes removing one bolt, then go back inside you can. Taken this way (a few minutes here a few minutes there) it will come out before you know it. No need to motivate you to go to the shop...