Imo000

And when something happens to the host site or the files in the host site, you'll end up with nice little red Xs on the Rennlist thread that makes the thread useless. There are plenty of example of this, just look for some old threads with outsourced image hosting.

Lizard928

dropping the rack down, and backing off the motor mount bolts makes pulling and reinstalling the engine MUCH easier. It is almost unbelievable how much hassle this little extra time takes.

The dual disc clutches have the spots for shimming, I do not believe that the single disc clutch in his car will have the spots to add the shims. Unless it is totally different and I've missed it.
Prior to loosening any of the bolts, I do recommend popping the top of the release lever off the ball cup bushing, then releasing everything. There is more than enough room once the coupler is removed to be able to slide the stub shaft back without removing anything else. It then comes down with the clutch pack. Nothing else needs to be touched. I would recommend for simplicity sake removing all of the components for pulling the engine. Removing them will prevent a possible hang up and or damage on re installation.

Rob Edwards

Huh, never tried it that way- so this just allows the mounts to rotate around a bit while the engine is coming off (or onto) the mount hats?


Pretty sure Doc's got the stock single disk, I cannot unsee what the pressure plate did to his face back in what, 2007? There are spots for shims in the single disk clutch (see below) but perhaps the clutch/PP will come out without shims. I jsut recall it being tight in there, but I was pretty nooby the last time I messed with a stock clutch. This is what it did to my face:




Shims:

docmirror

Lucky me, all I have to do now is bolt it back up to the PP. Since I'm not pulling the engine I don't need to remove the clutch and PP.

I'm going to be working on putting things back together later today, and waiting for the parts to close up the cam cover. Before I close it, I will run the engine up some and verify that I have oil getting to the heads.

Lizard928

Rob, it allows the mounts to shuffle a fair bit. Allowing much easier time.
I might have missed those spaces on the stock single disc, but it does come out easily without the shims in.

docmirror

Well - this just sucks broken glass. It's like 2 steps forward and 3 steps back.

I was working on the oil check valve area trying to get it put together and I found out why the head shop didn't tighten it.

I was trying to get the tapered locking pin out with the allen wrench and it's frozen in the head. Now I know why it wasn't tight when I got the heads back. The guy either backed it out and left it, or he tried to screw it in and it wouldn't torque so he just left it backed out.

This is really bad. I'm going to go get a new long reach allen wrench soon and see if I can break it loose before I start drilling. I really don't want to get up in there with power tools and drill the pin out and re-tap it. Man - I can't catch a break here.

Rob Edwards

I could swear new ones come with a coating of blue loctite- any chance they just need a kiss of heat to loosen the old ones? Maybe someone got more adventurous with other flavors of loctite in the past?

docmirror

Oh, I'm going to get my torch up in there and get the head casting hot before I try to back it out, or drive it in. But - I need the long allen first. All I've got is one of those short pocket allen wrenches that fit the pin. I don't know if it had locktite on it before. Anything but drilling out from the bottom with the chips falling on my face, with an stub bit and an angle drive. Yuch.