Hesitation upon acceleration
#1
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Location: south shore,long island
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Hesitation upon acceleration
Good afternoon folks. Took my 87 s4 5-speed out last nite to a wedding. No issues going there (25/30 miles or so).On the way home the car started right up, no prob again, but upon leaving the country club it hesitated and stumbled. And idled very low-very rough. Upon initial acceleration it is at its worst. If you feather the throttle it isn't so bad. Or not at all. It's when you give it a kick in the pants you can really feel it hesitating and stumbling as it tries to find its way. Once up, there are no issues. I took it out again this am, same thing- fired right up(cold) and idled a bit better, but when put under load it chokes a bit. I had made the mistake of running the tank down to about a quarter tank or less, which I rarely do-and filled it up with 12.5 gallons of super at a BP station I have been using for years. I am wondering if I just got a load of bad gas, or did I just run some sludge from the bottom of the tank through. I have no other running issues, and am now in the process of burning down some gas just so I can put in some shell super unleaded. What do you guys think? The feedback I get from you all is incredibly accurate-and I especially love the "money-back" guarantee! Thanks for listening.
#3
Nordschleife Master
Yes, this - and how old is the ISV ? May want to change out this 'wear' item if aged. While there clean up ground points VIII & IX amongst other checks.
#4
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Sorry, but what is the ISV? I will check the leads when I get back out to the garage-and the grounds 8&9 I believe I took care of within a year or so.
#7
Nordschleife Master
Hey Shark,
I'm not sure how to electrically test it, but the main problem is mechanical as its vent 'door' gets gunked up. I've had mine for 6 years/35k mile mostly highway miles and it started giving me problems. Replaced it and had a world of difference. Gotta remove the intake though - no way otherwise.
I'm not sure how to electrically test it, but the main problem is mechanical as its vent 'door' gets gunked up. I've had mine for 6 years/35k mile mostly highway miles and it started giving me problems. Replaced it and had a world of difference. Gotta remove the intake though - no way otherwise.
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#8
Rennlist Member
I don't think it is the ISV. A gunked-up ISV can certainly cause a poor idle, but it sounds like the primary issue is hesitation and stumbling on acceleration. Once the throttle starts to open, the ISV is pretty much out of the picture-- the main air path is via the throttle.
This sounds more like a mixture problem, too rich or too lean. Could be LH, could be O2-sensor, could be something else.
Try this experiment: With the engine cold, first disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect. This will reset the LH and clear out any stored adaptation. Now start it up. Does it idle OK? And OK when the throttle is opened a bit? Now let it warm up, does it start idling poorly and stumbling when the throttle is opened? The O2-sensor becomes active once the coolant temperature reaches ballpark 130F -- partway to the first white line.
If the O2-sensor is misbehaving then it will run OK (after a reset) until the O2-sensor kicks in, then turn to worms.
Another test, to be sure: Dive into the CE panel and disconnect the O2-sensor (rubber 3-pin plug and socket usually tucked under the CE panel harness). Start the engine and let it warm up, does it run OK? If so, then the O2-sensor is toast for sure. (Keep an eye on the cats, if it is running rich then they can get hot in a hurry).
The O2-sensor is Porsche part# 928-606-128-01 or Bosch 13048, priced anywhere from $65 (Amazon) to $180 (Porsche MSRP).
When you replace it, do the LH-reset thing again by disconnecting the battery for a minute. The LH will have tried to adapt to the bogus O2-sensor readings.
If that's not it then we might need to think about LH, but O2-sensors are cheaper/simpler.
Cheers, Jim
This sounds more like a mixture problem, too rich or too lean. Could be LH, could be O2-sensor, could be something else.
Try this experiment: With the engine cold, first disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect. This will reset the LH and clear out any stored adaptation. Now start it up. Does it idle OK? And OK when the throttle is opened a bit? Now let it warm up, does it start idling poorly and stumbling when the throttle is opened? The O2-sensor becomes active once the coolant temperature reaches ballpark 130F -- partway to the first white line.
If the O2-sensor is misbehaving then it will run OK (after a reset) until the O2-sensor kicks in, then turn to worms.
Another test, to be sure: Dive into the CE panel and disconnect the O2-sensor (rubber 3-pin plug and socket usually tucked under the CE panel harness). Start the engine and let it warm up, does it run OK? If so, then the O2-sensor is toast for sure. (Keep an eye on the cats, if it is running rich then they can get hot in a hurry).
The O2-sensor is Porsche part# 928-606-128-01 or Bosch 13048, priced anywhere from $65 (Amazon) to $180 (Porsche MSRP).
When you replace it, do the LH-reset thing again by disconnecting the battery for a minute. The LH will have tried to adapt to the bogus O2-sensor readings.
If that's not it then we might need to think about LH, but O2-sensors are cheaper/simpler.
Cheers, Jim
#9
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Nothing ever came of this. I ran the car over the next few weekends and almost within a day or two it was back to its old self. I ran the tank down to 3/4 or so ( gauge is not that accurate, add that to the "list") and filled it with a Shell super unleaded. This issue has not reared it's head since then. I apologize for not having something to get back to the forum with, but these are the intermittent-type things I hate. I'm hoping it doesn't happen again when I'm way further from home. If or when it does, I'll have more to add. I just can't see any real problems curing themselves. Thanks to all.