When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Craig -
I've reviewed your posts to merge the helpful info from each. I found a 40A SPST relay on the Radio Shack website. I'm sure they have other amp ratings (but it doesn't really matter as the signal line from the relay to the DC controller attaches to high impedance input pins). It's all getting a bit clearer.
In your photo of the DC controller mounted where the final stage used to be, I noticed the final stage line and connector appear to have been removed. Y/N? Did you remove the original fan wiring after having trouble with the crimping the 10 gauge lines to smaller original fan wires?
Can you add a picture of your fuse panel connections and the relay by the seat. Not in a hurry...just something that would help a lot.
Craig -
I've reviewed your posts to merge the helpful info from each. I found a 40A SPST relay on the Radio Shack website. I'm sure they have other amp ratings (but it doesn't really matter as the signal line from the relay to the DC controller attaches to high impedance input pins). It's all getting a bit clearer.
In your photo of the DC controller mounted where the final stage used to be, I noticed the final stage line and connector appear to have been removed. Y/N? Did you remove the original fan wiring after having trouble with the crimping the 10 gauge lines to smaller original fan wires?
Yep. The original fan controller, final stage unit, and their lines are removed from the car. The only original kept was the little push in clip that held the final stage harness to the body - my power input line is now held by it.
Yes and no to the crimping trouble. I used male/female spade connectors at the ends of different sized lines - the spade connectors all fit each other regardless of the specific sized wires being united. I replaced all wiring to fans for the wires and their insulation was hard, brittle, and cracked in many places - you see many bends in the harness' trail and brittleness doesn't help - actually had two breaks in ground lines - I just removed the old and now don't worry about it anymore - every line in my engine cooling system is now new, measured, and set by me.
Can you add a picture of your fuse panel connections and the relay by the seat. Not in a hurry...just something that would help a lot.
Certainly Jon.
I'm in Albany NY taking my little girl to her dorms right now. I will post pics when I return to Maine. Just tell me of what pics you'd like to see.
..
Last edited by MainePorsche; 08-21-2014 at 09:10 AM.
Craig - enjoy your road trip with family. Sorry, I forgot you were going to be away for awhile. No rush. I'm back to work on Monday and will be busy for most of September. Just trying to get the ducks in a row. Theo will send me a final stage he rebuilt that I will try before I give up on the OEM system. Fair enough...I'm busy from September to June, but it only takes 5 minutes to swap in a final stage and test it. If that test isn't a success, then it's full speed ahead on the DC controller during our winter break (2 weeks).
So take your time. The photos will be very helpful to all who read this thread.
Here's a few pictures as requested. You can see that the flex-a-lite controller sits really neatly in the channel on the inner fender. You can hardly see it if looking from above. Most importantly, it works well coupled with the Spal fans, aluminium radiator and home made bracket/shroud.
The PO decided to remove the condenser and compressor and crimp off the A/C pipework. You often wonder what goes through their heads. At least I have tracked down a good used compressor, just need a condenser now.
Wowwww.....so much SPACE! Impressive install. Great location for the controller. Never thought it was possible to look down on a 928 engine and see pavement.
Yes Ben, the workmanship looks very nice. If you can, I would go to a place like Radio Shack and get a small black project cover (they have different sizes) and cover the control unit. Those connectors are just waiting to get soiled and oxidized. Install the little box over - drill some small hole(s) for the wires to egress - add grommet(s) to avoid wire chaffing.
Add: these boxes have a nice little screw on top, so getting back in is straightforward.
One thing regarding the dc controller, and its placement today - washed the car and and when directing low velocity water stream at hood line and nose some water got onto the controller - this water got into the side panel of the controller where the pins reside and set of the AC activation function of the fans - blew the water out with a hair dyer quickly and fans stopped.
Utilized black silicon tape a way to keep water out of the pin recess.
As I noted previously, I had a problem with the unit and water. The water made its way into a recess where the connectors/pins are - result was that with engine OFF the fans activated until I got it dried out .Though the unit was wetted intentionally by a barrage of water it would never normally see, I wanted to be sure of this on a rainy night.
Edit Here: The device I had used to protect the controller was ill advised on my part - would not have allowed proper ventilation - the text and picture of it have been removed.
Add: Jon will get pics of items you requested a little later.
Last edited by MainePorsche; 08-25-2014 at 10:58 PM.
I am considering stepping up the ATF, Intake, High Pressure Refrig. temp switch activation from the 10% fan (pin 12 on dc unit) to the 50% fan through pin 14 on the dc unit - pin 14 is for standard AC activation fans. My concern however is that if I tie in the '3' to the common line (AC) to pin 14, activation of any one of these 3 switches will feed current to switch the AC compressor on. I can only think to place a directional diode on the line to pin 14 proximal to where the feed for the '3' ties in to this line. Is my consideration a valid, workable one ? If so, what diode spec. would I use ? I have HVAC relay amperage feeding line 14. I have X bus voltage/amperage feeding (through a relay) the signal line from the '3' switches. Thanks.
Last edited by MainePorsche; 08-25-2014 at 01:05 AM.
Reason: data correction.
08-21-2014, 12:54 AM
