For guys that have replaced their window seals...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For guys that have replaced their window seals...
Quick question since I'll be tackling this one hopefully this weekend. Whether you've replaced the outer lower edge window seal or the upper window frame seal (I'm doing both), is it a significanlty easier job to do it with the door panel removed?
I believe I have seen posts indicating that it can be done with the door panel in place, but was it a total pain, and for anyone that may have done it both ways, was it worth the added time and hassle of pulling the panel?
The main reason for asking is that I need to know if I should stock up on those plastic door panel peices that are bound to break if I pull the panel.
Thanks.
I believe I have seen posts indicating that it can be done with the door panel in place, but was it a total pain, and for anyone that may have done it both ways, was it worth the added time and hassle of pulling the panel?
The main reason for asking is that I need to know if I should stock up on those plastic door panel peices that are bound to break if I pull the panel.
Thanks.
#2
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Central New Jersey, where 287 and 78 meet.
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That's a big yes to remove the door panel as you need to remove the inner seal to give yourself more room. I also loosened the two window guides so to give more room between the window and the outside channel. Once done it took all of 5 minutes to slide the new seal into place. Not a bad job.
One word of caution.. If you watch the video on 928Rus's web site (
) you will notice he has tape on his fingers. I wondered why and now I know... The constant rubbing of my fingers against the door while pushing the seal on actually wore some skin away... Next time I will tape my fingers up
All in all not a bad job...
One word of caution.. If you watch the video on 928Rus's web site (
All in all not a bad job...
#5
I'm about to undertake the same exercise using Roger's version of the seal.
Not made clear on the video is whether the corner insert above the door handle needs to be retained or should the seal be cut to run the full length of the door?
Anyone encountered this?
Not made clear on the video is whether the corner insert above the door handle needs to be retained or should the seal be cut to run the full length of the door?
Anyone encountered this?
#6
Drifting
The original seal is two pieces bonded together as one piece. When you take the old one out the corner piece will come out with it. The new seal does not have the curve, so that is why you have to make it with the slicing the back of the seal as shown.
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#8
Rennlist Member
To the OP, you didn't mention if you're using original Porsche seals or 928 R US. Take it from me, if you're using original Porsche, those lower/outer seals are a PITA. It easily took me 2-3 hours on the driver's side and at least half that on the passenger's. Roger's look much much easier in that video.
As others have said, take the inner door panel off. You'll be spraying lots of soapy water to help slide the seal down the channel.
FWIW, it's a perfect time for inspection/preventive maintenance of the upper window felt guides and the slider guide bushings.
As others have said, take the inner door panel off. You'll be spraying lots of soapy water to help slide the seal down the channel.
FWIW, it's a perfect time for inspection/preventive maintenance of the upper window felt guides and the slider guide bushings.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
NoVector, that was sort of my thought. I've got the "window rattle" syndrome indicative of worn guide bushings. I am using Rogers aftermarket seals. I'll post some pictures when done. Thanks.
#10
Rennlist Member
Forget the soapy water. Instead go to your local home store and ask the clerk that works in plumbing for some silicone grease. They should have it in small plastic containers. Lube the spline and the inside of both edges that wrap onto the mounting rail inside the door. When I did mine I left the door panel on and did each side in about 45 minutes start to finish. By using the silicone grease you have loads of time to move the seal back and forth on the mountings because the lube doesn't dry out and stop lubricating like soapy water will.
Mike
Mike
#11
Three Wheelin'
i just did my outer lower seals. I used car wash soap straight rubbed on the rubber part and the metal track in the door. I removed the door panels. I used OE porsche seals that I found in new condition at the junkyard. pressing in the C-shaped lip on the outer top edge was the hard part...i used nylon tool and patience and pressed it in little by little. I started by sliding it on near the door lock, then pushing forward toward the front. took 1 hour on the first side, 30 min on the other, not including removing the door panels
#12
Rennlist Member
#13
#14
Rennlist Member
Agreed. Be careful if you use silicone. It will streak if you get it on the felt and if you put too much, the seal will easily pop out... as me how I know. I used soapy water on the second door and it was fine.
I used adhesive backed felt from the craft store to replace the original window guide fabric. It has held up well.
I used adhesive backed felt from the craft store to replace the original window guide fabric. It has held up well.
#15
Rennlist Member
Back to your concern about the door panel clips -- since you are going to remove the panels I highly recommend replacing ALL of the clips.
Rob Budd sells them on eBay, I think, for about $10 per dozen. I would buy two packs of the black ones and one pack of the white.
Even if they don't break you will be much happier in the long run with all new ones.
Rob Budd sells them on eBay, I think, for about $10 per dozen. I would buy two packs of the black ones and one pack of the white.
Even if they don't break you will be much happier in the long run with all new ones.