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Question re: Steering Rack Mount Bushings

Old 07-23-2014, 12:58 AM
  #16  
DKWalser
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Thanks, everyone!

So, Roger, how much does a set of replacement delrin bushings cost?
Old 07-23-2014, 01:04 AM
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Tazzieman
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Originally Posted by Adamant1971
+1 on the hole saw. Just have a corded drill or more than one battery fully charged.
It's a good idea , much better than drilling holes all around which always results in broken drill bits , even when the bushings are on the bench. Worst bushing job ever? Series Land Rover. Local LR mechanic refuses to do them : "young man's work" he says. Well at 49 yrs I did mine and I will now concur : 49 is too old!
Old 07-23-2014, 03:43 AM
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StratfordShark
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Originally Posted by dr bob
I like the Delrin because they don't deteriorate with oil/heat/etc exposure as the original rubber ones do. They can be fit with a slight radial interference in the rack ears without worry about breaking the ears, vs. the aluminum with no forgiveness. The plastic will cold-flow a little as the bolts are tightened, so don't get overzealous with the wrenches when snugging these up; this is about the only reason I'd choose the aluminum over the Delrin. There are no rattles with the Delrin.


The air-chisel makes short work of the outer sleeves on the original bushings. Hand hammer and chisel is a little more work but it's just a one-time job.
Does that mean the WSM torque of 46Nm for rack bushings does not apply here? If not what is correct torque for Delrins?

Thanks
Old 07-23-2014, 04:28 AM
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Schocki
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My way...
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:12 AM
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jcorenman
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Originally Posted by dr bob
I like the Delrin because they don't deteriorate with oil/heat/etc exposure as the original rubber ones do. They can be fit with a slight radial interference in the rack ears without worry about breaking the ears, vs. the aluminum with no forgiveness. The plastic will cold-flow a little as the bolts are tightened, so don't get overzealous with the wrenches when snugging these up; this is about the only reason I'd choose the aluminum over the Delrin. There are no rattles with the Delrin. ...
This echoes my concern. Looking at the design of the cross-member, the lower cover forms a box-section and proper torque is part of the equation. My concern was loosening over time.

I took a different path, here: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post9667668

The problem is cost, three pieces are more expensive than two, and there wasn't much interest on the part of our vendors here in a more-expensive solution.
Old 07-23-2014, 01:29 PM
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dr bob
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I started out with the WSM-recommended torque. A year later I decided to recheck the torque and they needed a little more. The heads of the bushings had mushroomed slightly, but it wasn't excessive. The rack is still firmly sandwiched and has much less available vertical movement than the original bushings allowed. Jim's solution is better at limiting the mushrooming from bolt torque, but the downside is that you can't take up any clearance caused by vertical rack displacement. I could add a rubber washer above and below... The Delrins work great for street applications, and unless you are seriously beating on the car and have it sitting really low, there won't be enough pressure on the bushings to worry about. The aluminum bushings remove the cold-flow consideration, but the noise transmssion is obviously higher. Kind of like using spherical bearings in the suspension arms on a street car-- yeah it's more precise, but the NVH factor is significantly higher. Do I really want to see and hear every pebble that I drive over?


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