Noise coming from passengers side valve cover
07-09-2014, 10:46 PM
#17
Rennlist Member
Not from what I can see but they will warp and fall out. I would put the pins in before this happens. Use Loctite 574 on the cam caps.
07-09-2014, 10:53 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Get, and use 574 on the bridge faces when you reassemble after putting in the pins. Whatever is in there is kind of thick and silicon looking. When you use the Loctite 574 on the faces it doesn't have to be slathered on like cake frosting - just enough to form a seal on the flange faces - it should look like metal on metal.
07-09-2014, 10:54 PM
#19
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I saw a post with a pin and a picture of a cap with a pin inside it. now do I replace the caps with pins? I am looking at valve cover kits on different websites and they all have caps. I really don't get how the caps make noise. Do the pins move up and down for any oil related reasons?
07-09-2014, 11:07 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
When you make the change you will replace the rubber thing with the pin to only the pin. Note in earlier picture of pin how it tapers at a certain point. These pins are designed to plug the hole and have the end of the thicker part under the ceiling of the bridge which keeps it from exiting the hole. On the old plugs if the rubber degraded it would simply fall out leaving the hole exposed for oil loss to below.
You have time - regarding the plugs - they are in place and doing their job.
You have another cause of the chattering. dr bob mentioned earlier tensioner pad and tube. Gurus more knowledgeable than me on the matter will chime in. Still regard the oil check valve. It is straightforward and doesn't cost money to deal with. Use Search for the topic. If you have WSM's they cover it well.
Add: The plugs don't make any noise - the noise is from the tappets - if a plug is out the normal amount of oil in the chamber decreases by draining down the hole - if not addressed you will excessively wear things.
You have time - regarding the plugs - they are in place and doing their job.
You have another cause of the chattering. dr bob mentioned earlier tensioner pad and tube. Gurus more knowledgeable than me on the matter will chime in. Still regard the oil check valve. It is straightforward and doesn't cost money to deal with. Use Search for the topic. If you have WSM's they cover it well.
Add: The plugs don't make any noise - the noise is from the tappets - if a plug is out the normal amount of oil in the chamber decreases by draining down the hole - if not addressed you will excessively wear things.
07-10-2014, 12:13 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
07-10-2014, 12:16 AM
#24
Team Owner
Bummer that things jammed up, it can be fixed,
when you remove the timing belt pulley you will find a metal hat with a slice out of the edge,
this is the trigger ring for the Hall sensor,
I am going to figure you will need this and a new hall sensor.
Also get your hands on a Porken timing set to retime the gears.
Inspect the spider for cracks along the area that rides along the cam snout.
It is common for them to crack, make sure to re torque the cam bolt to the proper torque
Use the 30mm nut washer to turn the cams not the 17mm bolt.
Note sure about that blue silicone sealant , instead use Hondabond 4 for the cam cover gaskets a thin bead in the cam groove,
and at the junctions of the caps,
NOTE as previously mentioned use the Loctite 574 for the cam caps to the head seal, or oil will migrate through.
when you remove the timing belt pulley you will find a metal hat with a slice out of the edge,
this is the trigger ring for the Hall sensor,
I am going to figure you will need this and a new hall sensor.
Also get your hands on a Porken timing set to retime the gears.
Inspect the spider for cracks along the area that rides along the cam snout.
It is common for them to crack, make sure to re torque the cam bolt to the proper torque
Use the 30mm nut washer to turn the cams not the 17mm bolt.
Note sure about that blue silicone sealant , instead use Hondabond 4 for the cam cover gaskets a thin bead in the cam groove,
and at the junctions of the caps,
NOTE as previously mentioned use the Loctite 574 for the cam caps to the head seal, or oil will migrate through.
07-10-2014, 12:24 AM
#29
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Do I need the entire Camshaft Timing Sprocket or just the metal hat?
Bummer you that things jammed up, it can be fixed,
when you remove the timing belt pulley you will find a metal hat with a slice out of the edge,
this is the trigger ring for the Hall sensor,
I am going to figure you will need this and a new hall sensor.
Also get your hands on a Porken timing set to retime the gears.
Inspect the spider for cracks along the area that rides along the cam snout.
It is common for them to crack, make sure to re torque the cam bolt to the proper torque
Use the 30mm nut washer to turn the cams not the 17mm bolt
when you remove the timing belt pulley you will find a metal hat with a slice out of the edge,
this is the trigger ring for the Hall sensor,
I am going to figure you will need this and a new hall sensor.
Also get your hands on a Porken timing set to retime the gears.
Inspect the spider for cracks along the area that rides along the cam snout.
It is common for them to crack, make sure to re torque the cam bolt to the proper torque
Use the 30mm nut washer to turn the cams not the 17mm bolt
07-10-2014, 12:25 AM
#30
Team Owner
once that you take things apart you will see what happened
A WAG would be that the old part was pried on someway thus damaging the trigger ring .
the trigger ring may have already been bent before you removed the old Hall sensor .
Infact why are you replacing the Hall sensor to begin with?
it looks like it may be damaged, thus a clue that the trigger ring is also damaged.
A WAG would be that the old part was pried on someway thus damaging the trigger ring .
the trigger ring may have already been bent before you removed the old Hall sensor .
Infact why are you replacing the Hall sensor to begin with?
it looks like it may be damaged, thus a clue that the trigger ring is also damaged.