jeff spahn

I sent mine back Roger and paid the postage to lessen the impact to you (albeit by a small amount).

ROG100

Thanks Jeff that is really good of you - this was not a money making project for Myles.

worf928

This sucks. For Myles. For Roger. For everyone that got one out of the second batch. For all of us.

My condolences to Myles and all involved. Not always easy trying to help.

ROG100

Thanks Dave - I will soften the blow to Myles as much as possible and hopefully the casting company will come through.

jeff spahn

If he doesn't, I guess we will be funding some retirement plans at Porsche with the new classic price.

worf928

Don't assume that a new high-priced part won't have issues. It's happened before.

Last time it was the screw-on cover for the fuel level sender.

928Myles

Update.

I have received 8 units back from Roger. To my relief they have all had the same issues with fitment. (I had been worried that there might be some difficulty in identifying , and therefore rectifying, the issues).

I am working with the casting shop to see if we can't get the issues sorted out. One puzzling thing is that none of the issues preventing the fitting of the lock cap (for want of a better name) manifested in the first batch and we are sure that the same tooling is being used.

Will let you know when I find out more.

Thanks for your patience.

Myles

Randy V

Thanks, Myles.


Still trying to figure out the best way to flare the end of that pin. The end of it resides below the body of the latch so some type tool needs to be inserted in there to flare it.

Any ideas?

928Myles

Randy,
not sure what you have available to you.
Several options you could try.
1 - place the other end on a small nut against a hard surface (concrete floor / rock, nib, jack stand....) and use the flat end of the old pin as a punch (or a punch / M8 bolt if you have one). The bolts that hold the hatch latch onto the hatch body are about the right size.
2 - As above but use a small nut on top of the end you want to flare as a space so you can hit that. (Less to hold than no.1)
3 - Place the unit between your car jack and jacking point and jack up the car with it. You will need two flat plates and two small nuts (or equivalent) to spread the load across the jack / jacking point and to press directly against the two ends of the pin.

I did not flare mine for re-assembly. Because I needed to dismantle it often I drilled a hole in one end, tapped a thread into it and screwed in a bolt.

Hope you find something that works for you.

Myles

Randy V

OK, the idea of using a small nut to fit into that recessed area should do the trick - thanks!

What are the potential downsides to just leaving it unflared on the end?

928Myles

It will migrate sideways and damage the insert in the receiver (or worse) when you shut it one day.

Myles

928Myles

Still working on this.

Looks like it was 'luck' that the first batch worked. We have not been able to reproduce that same result since.

Tooling is currently being modified to try to address the issues currently making themselves apparent.

Will update when I have more news.

Myles

Turc928S4

Deleted

Randy V

Any progress, Myles? Sure would be nice to get closure on this. I still haven't permanently installed the latch pin, in hopes of installing the final solution.

928Myles

Seems to be taking forever to resolve.
I have had a couple of lots of test samples back still with issues. Hope to be getting another couple of samples in a couple of weeks. Hopefully this lot will be ok.

Been a very frustrating foray.

Myles