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Another first time 928 Timing belt job

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Old 06-06-2014, 02:42 AM
  #31  
jheis
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Originally Posted by jcorenman
(check Sonnen)

Cheers, Jim
I know this advice was well intentioned, but Sonnen is our local dealer and I would not recommend them for ANYTHING.
Old 06-17-2014, 01:06 AM
  #32  
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I saw the light, under the straight edge. These cam gears are getting replaced, glad I did not try and re-coat them. This is the passenger side, the driver's is not as bad but still shot. As I mentioned the belt was not tracking right, and this was evidenced by irregular wear on the driver's side gear, worn to crap on 2/3rds and 1/3rd with some coating left. There is quite a bit of belt residue on that side as well... I did not see anything "irregular" upon disassembly except and completely dried and crispy tensioner. I rebuilt the tensioner along with the idler pulley.

I managed to get 5 of the ten bolts out of the block, hoping to get the rest in a few days. Trying to figure out how to do it and not "screw" myself in the process. Spent many hours cleaning and replacing many parts. Glad I can be an example of how not to remove wp bolts, although I really don't see any way to get them off- the bolt heads practically fell out on their own.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:00 AM
  #33  
x98boardwell
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Don, your gears don't look too bad. If the valleys aren't also wearing (from what I've been told) you could possibly use them again if years are what makes you change the belt rather than mileage. If yearly mileage is low you should be good until next change. But, I can also see why you would want to do it now... Just my .02, great write up so far. Good luck on the bolt removal.
Old 06-17-2014, 02:12 AM
  #34  
Chalkboss
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Originally Posted by x98boardwell
Don, your gears don't look too bad. If the valleys aren't also wearing (from what I've been told) you could possibly use them again if years are what makes you change the belt rather than mileage. If yearly mileage is low you should be good until next change. But, I can also see why you would want to do it now... Just my .02, great write up so far. Good luck on the bolt removal.
Thanks. I plan on keeping this car for a while, or until my wife throws me out, so I feel better replacing these gears. The irregular wear which does not show in the picture makes me nervous. Hopefully once I get it back together the belt will track proper. I'll be on a roll once those last bolts come out!
Old 06-17-2014, 03:23 AM
  #35  
dr bob
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Don't

The oil pump and crank gears need replacing too, by the time the can gears get to that point. While the numbers on the CC haven't worn down completely.
Old 06-17-2014, 10:32 AM
  #36  
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Uhh, those gears look fairly trashed...no?
Old 06-17-2014, 10:56 AM
  #37  
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Post 1, pic 2 if that's a fuel hose, and I think it is, get them all replaced now. Moving those hoses around after sitting in one spot for a long time is a recipe for a carbeque. Once again, the theory of comparative neglect is proven out. After the TB/WP job and fuel hoses, you are going to tackle the intake refresh, cuz all those vac lines are goners under there.

How is the big wire loom that goes across the front of the engine from the 14 pin on the pax side?

It never ends.
Old 06-17-2014, 11:05 AM
  #38  
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No, they are low pressure ps lines (poor pic). I already replaced the fuel lines. My thinking was fire, engine grenade, in that order so that's how I prioritize jobs.
Many more to come, for sure. Intake is next up after my bank account gets a brief rest. Whew.
Old 07-22-2014, 12:46 AM
  #39  
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OK job done! Dear lord those broken bolts tested me in many ways. I replaced quite a bit in there- rebuilt the tensioner and new cam gears also. I set the timing using Ken's tool, that was actually sort of fun to do. Got it spot on, now I hope I don't have any issues that creep up. It runs very smooth now, before I had a bit of shake, nothing big, but then again maybe I am imagining that spending all that time, effort, and money has to pay off in some way. I have to back and straighten out my low pressure PS lines that I accidentally kinked while replacing, and re-seat the oil dipstick tube, but she's good to go for now.

Just a pic of reassembly...

The other pic is of a special drill bushing I had made by a machinist to remove broken wp bolts. It fits perfectly in a wp bolt hole, and you use a #22 drill to drill out the offending broken bolt. Before using the drill you punch it with a center punch. I forgot the size but I have one that is within 0.006 of the wp bolt hole. Then insert bushing and gently drill, not going too far! The bushing ensures you get a straight go at it.
I sized the bit to leave the steel threads and a very thin sleeve of steel. Then I VERY carefully used a dremel, picks, and thread chaser in alternating fashion until, presto. I had a clean set of threads again. I did not even have to use an insert. It took me over an hour to do this last part. I had thought I got all of the ten broken bolts off but I missed one, hence this approach.

Anyone who wants to use this bushing just let me know. I take no credit for the idea it was Dr. Bob and I think Ed (Linderpat) who advanced the concept. Thanks to everyone on this list, of course I never could have done this job without all the expert advice and help here.
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:50 AM
  #40  
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Outstanding work Don. I think what you did to save a very bad ***-puckering situation was amazing - patience and a cool, level head.
For those who think it can't be done when you do a project that suddenly goes horribly sideways, just grab an old copy of Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintanence and have a read through.
Old 07-22-2014, 08:21 AM
  #41  
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Well Done Don!
Broken bolts really mess with what you want to get done, and how long it takes to get there, not to mention the elevated stress and frustration, glad to see you victorious!

Cheers,



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