Five-8

Don, i kinda know what you are feelin just now, but not really...i still have yet to get the water bridge off and am resigned to cutting it up once my replacement arrives(seized/broken bolts).Didn't have the kinda trouble you had with the Wp though -they all came off without issue--but i WAS expecting to hit trouble with the WP bolts.
Very Frustrating...but it'll come good in the end.
Chin up!

Cheers,

Chalkboss

That's a good technique, but these bolts were wasted. The coolant leak was from the bridge to the cyl head, so it seeped down to the wp for who knows how long, corroding everything. The bolts I could get out were located towards the inside housing of the water pump, and shielded from the leak more. Bad on me for letting it go a year, but it had been leaking a long time before I got the car.

Chalkboss

Thanks Adrian, I just walk away from it so I don't get impatient. I had to use a spiral screw extractor (Irwin) for the bridge bolts I could get to, and the one near the intake I slaughtered it with a left-hand cobalt drill bit, dremel, and finally chiseled the stuffing out of it.

Richard S

Are you positive you removed/broke every bolt? The reason I ask is that I encountered a WP that just would not come off.....until I settled down and found there was one bolt I missed because I could not see it from above. It was in the center of the WP, under the part of the WP that holds the fan bracket on the early cars.

So maybe check again just to be sure before you try prying it off.

Good luck,
Rich

Fogey1

Once the pump is off and the remains of the bolts are proud of the block, you might consider soaking a dozen paper towels with the ATF/Acetone mix and molding them around the bolts to let the mix seep in. Tape a plastic bag over the whole mess to slow evaporation. You might actually do that now, with the pump still on, making dams out of putty or wax or clay (play-doh?), maybe. The bolt holes will serve as wicking guides and some seepage into the corroded mating surface between the block and pump won't do any harm.

Maybe there are acetone-resistant soda-bottle-cap-sized cups that you could glue on, fill with acetone/atf and go away for a day or two.

As much work, frustration and possibly expen$ive damage as you're staring at makes planning and experimentation worth the time.

Patience is the key. You'll be sorry if you hurry. Good luck and ENJOY THE 928 HOBBY!!!

P.S. If you do have to pry (presumably driving some sort of tool between the pump and block) that tool should be as thin and broad as possible - and sort of sharp. A sacrificial spatula, or maybe a paint scraper, putty knife or even a bunch of utility blades tapped in around the perimeter. http://www.acehardware.com/family/in...goryId=2625576 Whether or not you're trashing the old pump will partially inform you decision. There are these, too, http://www.acehardware.com/search/in.../19541496&sr=1 and some finer cabinet-makers pry bars.

P.P.S. Maybe hot melt glue to mount "penetrant cups"?

dr bob

Don--

Just a reminder that there are two locating dowels indexing the pump on the block. They are slightly smaller than the bolts. As you count how many you've pulled by the number of holes you see, keep that in mind. I usually put the new pump on the worktable, go back and identify every corresponding opening in the pump on the engine. The pump may be stuck to the block if it was glued on with gasket sealer, but the ones that have been stuck for me have been held in by a bolt that I missed the first time through.

Have a cold one, relax for a bit. Look again later, and you'll find the one that's still there. My two cents.

Chalkboss

Thanks guys, have had 3x cold ones, and looked at least 6xs for a missed bolt. Checked the new one against the old an noted the dowels. I think this thing is positively glued to the block... many years. I will find my big *** pry bar and coax it a bit, but not before looking some more!

I have to admit I bought it cause I loved the 928 for many years, but was also looking for a challenge. Found it.

linderpat

there are two places where a pry bar can go in and where you can gently pry the wp housing off. I had to do it and I did so with no damage. This write up discusses it and shows the locations: http://static.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Con...ber%202012.pdf

Fogey1

Chapter Nine starts on Page 64 and there's a pic on 67. The table of contents is great except for no pagination.

dr bob

I've found that a roll-head bar is a handy piece for popping stuck pumps on 928's. FWIW.

Chalkboss

Thanks for all the help guys. After the ruination I caused today I will go back to my normally scheduled programming (job) and revisit this during the week with your tips.

Bilal928S4

Don,
I was re-tensioning my timing belt this weekend and I remembered your post about checking the belt tension before you started and were getting different readings depending on where you inserted the tool.
I read the instructions again and it specifies to insert the tool close to the center cover. I hope that helps.

linderpat

here is my fix for the hole where I had a problem with extracting a broken water pump bolt - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t-or-stud.html.

Keep your old pump, since out of 10 broken, at least one or two will require drilling out, and the old pump is the drill guide to use. Note - when using the old pump, clean it off well at the mating surface, and clean the two guide pins on the front of the engine real well. Then apply a dab of grease to the guide pins so the pump can be put on and pulled of easily if you end up using it for the drill guide.

Chalkboss

Well after three days of letting the whole mess soak in the magical elixir of atf/acetone I finally managed to pry the pump off. It took a big pry bar and repeated firm rocking. The sound it made when it parted was not unlike the crank bolt coming loose. Incredibly attached to that engine this poor metal impeller pump was.

So here is the clinical shot of all the broken screws. As you can see all the heads sheared off and left me thankfully with a bit to grab on to. I am soaking for a few days then I will attempt extraction. I plan on using MAPP flame to heat them up, then either grab them with vice grips or... maybe I can thread on two nuts and pull the "stud" off? The threads look ugly on some from corrosion and I am doubtful of this latter idea bearing fruit, and maybe breaking them again off in the block. Any other ideas?

All this was created from the leak, which you can see the white remnants of in the right corner. Speaking of broken water pump bolts, good job Ed on your fix. Excellent.

SeanR

This picture is a great example as to why you should use this to remove those bolts. 4 years and I have not snapped one bolt.