Glenn M

I've been trying to ST my 88 S4. The car has been running rich and had started to stumble at idle.
I'm using the Innovative LC1 WB02, AFR showsl 22. When I decelerate the AFR will go down momentarily

Bought a gauge and AFR starts at 7.4 and then goes to 22 (WB heating up?), replaced the WBO2 with a new one and it acts the same.
I have 24lb injectors.

If I let the LC1 simulate the NBO2 the car starts to stumble after around 10 seconds. Once NB sim turned off it idles fine.

Have a separate ground wire for the WBO2 reset switch/LED and the ST/WBO2. Each ground wire goes to the LH/EZK mounting screw.

I looked at old runs from two years ago and the AFR looked ok. I don’t know what changed.

Working on getting the NBO2 connected along with the WBO2 to eliminate the NBO2 simulation.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

RKD in OKC

LC1 works fine on my car, even doing the simulated NB02. I didn't wire, setup, and or calibrate it though, a shop did it for me.

Sounds like it is not setup correctly.

jcorenman

Glenn,

The 7.4 AFR reading is 0 volts on the analog wbo2 connection (brown wire on the LC-1), and 22.4 is 5.0 volts-- max scale. That is not sensible (the engine couldn't run). You should verify that with a voltmeter, if it is indeed swinging from 0 volts to 5.0 (or more) then check the ground connections, and do another free-air cal. (If you have an x-pipe with the crossover upstream of the wbo2 sensor, just stick a shop-vac on one tailpipe-- with engine off-- and pull fresh air through the other, and past the wbo2 sensor).

Also check Sharktuner's "WBO2 law" (Tools menu), 0 volts should be 7.35 AFR and 5 volts should be 22.39 for the LC-1.

Cheers, Jim

Glenn M

Jim,
Made sure the voltage levels were set correct. Even changed the levels in the LC1 to match the ST levels and it didn't help.

jcorenman

OK, check the grounds for the LC-1, and also the ground (shield) for the pigtail to ST's analog-in.

Then get a voltmeter on the wbo2 analog-out from the LC-1, what do you see?

FredR

Are you talking about incorrect numbers on the LC1 gauge readout or just in ST2?

Clearly you need to have the LC1 making sense before you connect ST2. I presume you are not getting sensible readings on the LC1 gauge?

I remember John advsing some problems were seen with the LC1 setup initially- how htey were solved no idea [I have the LM1 kit].

Regards

Fred

oups59

Do you have the latest firmware update on the LC1 ?

Glenn M

Both ST and LC1 are showing very high AFR numbers.
I won't be able to move the grounds and check voltages until this weekend.

When I looked at the LC1 SW on the Innovative site it is a few years old. I have this loaded.
Thanks

Courtshark

Could something be wrong with your MAF?

Glenn M

I planned on trying the one from my 87, it is not original like the 88's.
I picked it up years ago as a NOS M5 MAF.

Courtshark

That would be my first guess; they are absurdly sensitive.

victor25

When you installed your LC-1 did you do an open air calibration???? this is a must!!
just helped someone else a few days ago with the same thing...

Glenn M

Open air cal done with old and new WBO2 with same results

FredR

Sounds to me as though the LC1 is suspect- can you borrow a different WB sensor unit from someone?

Regards

Fred

jcorenman

Did you check the ground wires for the LC-1 (blue and white)?
Also the ground (shield) for the pigtail to ST's analog-in?
(The LC-1 ground wires should both be connected to a single, isolated and clean ground point-- e.g. ECU chassis bolt or foot-board mounting bolt with paint removed).

Did you do a voltage check on the wbo2 analog-out from the LC-1?
(Check the voltage From the LC-1's brown wire to the white ground wire, and also from brown wire to chassis).
What do you see there, with engine running?