westija

928 5 speed '89

After my Motor Mounts and Oil Pan Gasket replacement I've been carefully inspecting under the car after my few drives.

This morning I noticed a few drips of oil under the Steering Rack - passenger side. The Steering Rack Boots are just like new (this is a remanufactured steering rack that looks like it has been replaced recently by previous owner). However when I pulled the boot towards the outside of the car, there was a significant amount of oil inside the boot, that dripped to the floor. Hard to say how much oil was there, but I believe it was maybe close to a tenth of a regular glass of water in terms of volume.

I remembered that the periodic owners' club inspection talked about this issue, and there it was: "...examine the steering arms. The arms should have a light coating of grease and should be free of dirt and debris. If red ATF fluid poured onto your head when you removed one of the rack boots then the rack’s seals are leaking"

I suspect that with all the stress that I submitted the rack during the motor mounts and oil pan gasket replacement by pushing it down and to the sides to get extra room, that I might have damaged it.

Question:
How do I fix it? Can I replace the seal(s) or do I have to buy a remanufactured steering rack?
If I can replace the seal(s), do I need to remove the Rack out of the car?
What else is needed to be done while I am in there (the steering bushings look in pretty good shape)?

Thanks in advance for the help

GlenL

The seals at the ends of the rack are the most likely failure. They can be replaced but the rack must be removed from the car and taken apart. (I'm sure someone has done it otherwise. Orneriness has no bounds!)

I've tried this and it's hard. The seals need to be carefully driven in "backwards." Some failed immediately. Some failed soon afterwards as, I found out later, the rack (rod) had corrosion towards the middle.

My suggestion is to decide when the leak is beyond your acceptance point and then get a remanufactured rack. One warning is that they dribble for a long time and when it fails it really streams.

Jetdriver69

I agree, it is way more trouble than it is worth to try to rebuild the rack. I started to attempt it and bought a reman. DO NOT buy one from ebay, no matter the cost savings! Get one from Roger or 928 International, you know they will fit, they will be clocked correctly and won't leak. While you are at the rack, you may as well change the oil pan gasket and stud kit, ball joints, maybe front end bearings, maybe front shocks, maybe replace the sway bar bushings, maybe oil sender if leaking, etc. Do whatever you can while the front end is apart.

NoVector

I recall reading (years ago) someone having success adding transmission stop leak (like Trans-X) in the PS reservoir. Makes sense as it would swell the seals a little and buy you some time.

And now, the haters of adding supplemental fluids will start responding in 5, 4, 3, 2…

928porschemangreg

Trans-X it is! (I need time). Major work is for winter.

GlenL

Haters?

I've plugged up heater cores trying to stop radiator leaks. It's not uncommon. What will that goop do to the hoses, lines and the pump that I want to keep?

Mrmerlin

the seals your trying to swell with the stop leak are teflon and the swell stop wont make them swell.
If you know who the rack came from IE 928 INTL maybe they will work with you,
otherwise get a rack from them,
its warranted for 1 year and they have the best rebuilds.
I have installed 5 of them and no comebacks

Mark Anderson

Thanks Stan
We've had great sucess from this rebuilder for over 20 years.

Mrmerlin

Hi Mark, no problems with your parts, as they are the best,
Its easy to give a recommendation for a no hassle repair!

westija

Placing an order soon. Thanks guys

westija

I ordered a remanufactured Rack and am trying to remove the leaky one from the car.

Have a few very basic questions for the experienced folks.

I am a bit confused as to how to unscrew the Tie Rod from the Rack.
According to the instructions on Pirtle's web site, I could use a pipe wrench to unscrew the Tie Rod ends from the rack. But when I tried it does not seem to move at all and I am afraid I am going to break something.

Then when I look at the 928 Tech Tips (http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/) it says to "loosen the Tie Rod lock nuts just enough to unscrew the Tie Rod ends. No need to pull them off. Completely unscrew the Tie Rods, but don't move your Lock Bolts - you will want to reassemble where they are."

Questions:
1. What is the "Tie Rod lock nuts"? Is that the same thing as the "Tie Rod ends" ? Is that the one I am pointing on the picture below?
2. What are the Lock Bolts that I am supposed to not touch? Are those the ones close to the wheel (second picture below)?

Sorry for the questions, first time I mess with this one.

Thanks in advance

Bilal928S4

Ok.
The second picture shows the nut which affects your alignment. The end is released from the knuckle and then you can unscrew the tie rod END after you release the tension by undoing the lock nut slightly.
The first picture shows the inner tie rod. To remove that you have to hold the nut you are pointing to and on the rod there are indentations where you put another wrench and take it apart. If you take the tie rod out of the knuckle you can just undo this joint and take the whole inner and outer tie rod off together.
When you reinstall the length of the inner and outer tie rod will be the same and that is what is required.
Hope that helps.

Bjbpe

I've replaced my rack twice. Naturally, after replacement, the leak stopped. That's like about 60,000 miles between replacement.

The last thing I want to do is disagree with Mrmerlin who knows a lot more about these cars than I do but, before I read this article and found out it wouldn't work, I refilled the reservoir with power steering stop leak - - - - - - and the leak stopped!!!! Having designed many hydraulic systems for jet and rocket engines, I do agree that teflon seals should be impervious to stop-leak but, still, my garage floor is dry. Could it be that whoever rebuilt my rack used neoprene or some other material. Take that for what it is worth - and please tell me how to fix my radio.

Bilal928S4

I have used Mark's rebuilt rack and have had no problems. They are an excellent unit. They even come with the rack bushings installed so you do not have to buy them desperately.

Mrmerlin

FWIW the usual reason they fail is because the steering wheel is held at full lock while turning around or backing out of a space.

Instead try bouncing off the stop and hold the wheel about 1 to 2 inches from full turn,
it wont really effect your turn radius and the pressure wont be forced at the stops.

The other issue is cracked boots that allow dirt to enter the rack thus this will quickly cut the seals.

As always flushing the system every once in a while is a good idea as is replacing the leaking hoses and the adding a new reservoir .

Always use 4 new sealing washers on the banjo bolts.

Marks racks come with 4 new seals, and sealing liquid