928 no start, Started yesterday
#1
928 no start, Started yesterday
Hi, I knew things were going too smoothly with this 1984 Euro 928 that I have been sorting out some wiring issues on. I have rewired the 14 PIN, I added a new alternator plugs, wires, caps, clean the grounds etc. Then two days ago, I started it up, to confirm that all my hookups were good. Today I went to work on the tach which isn't working. After checking a few of the connectors I thought I would see if I fixed it by starting the car, but much to my surprise, the car didn't run! It cranks, the fuel pump is getting power, but it will not start even with starting fluid, but the strangest thing of all; if I put in a relay in postion 8, which according to my chart isn't used, the car starts, but you can't shut it off with the key!. Could I have messed up by reconnecting the immoblizer? Does this car even have one? Could one of the connectors that go to the flat ribbin "strips" could a not spark issue? Somehow I did something under the dash or at the fuse box that made a running car not get any spark. Any help would be much apperciated. I'm been active in the hobby for 30 years, never seen anything like it.
#2
Rennlist Member
Can you show some good pictures of fuse panel?
Remove and photo front and back would be best.
Multiple closeups would be good so the whole panel is shown including the 928 part number of the panel itself.
Need to ensure the lower plugs are in correct order, too.
Closeup of wires leaving each plug is helpful, looking for any scorching of wires.
Would like to see the wire connections inside 14 pin, though the connector body itself is brittle and it could get broken with manipulation.
Remove and photo front and back would be best.
Multiple closeups would be good so the whole panel is shown including the 928 part number of the panel itself.
Need to ensure the lower plugs are in correct order, too.
Closeup of wires leaving each plug is helpful, looking for any scorching of wires.
Would like to see the wire connections inside 14 pin, though the connector body itself is brittle and it could get broken with manipulation.
#3
The panel number is 928.610.105.08. I just confirmed that the alarm works, If I lock the doors then try to start the car the horn goes off. I can stop it by unlocking the doors. Maybe the immobizer is still doing its thing? I can't figure out what I touched or hooked up. It started fine, I hooked up the non working dome ( front and rear light plus red door side markers) Now no start, Hell I don't ever hear a fuel pump relay clicking but I know lead 30 has power and if I jump it the pump runs...but it starts if I install a relay in Postion 8...but the key doesn't shut off. That switch hanging down ( cut off?) was never touched, but I did see if it did anything, no good
#5
Rennlist Member
I think you should remove CE, clean and re-fuse with similar vw fuses. Plus pick thru all wires on back confirm no cross melts.
Need pictures of back of panel.
Concerned that somebody might have done rewire job
Need pictures of back of panel.
Concerned that somebody might have done rewire job
#6
I thought that was the back panel
It seems a white wire (please see lastest picture) must have come loose when I pulled the panel down, do you know were it goes? Based on its size I was thinking it goes to the large red wire with the yellow booth on the same connector?
#7
Rennlist Member
No, am not sure as it is cobbled.
I think I'd slow down and map it all, comparing against known good euro 84.
Stereo, aftermarket disabled, and foglight retiring to meet USA laws are typical possible reasons for cobble.
Fuse close ups show need to service -ensure correct amp ratings too.
Relay 8 thing bothers me.
Am away from my ref car and don't have my euro diagrams with me.
I think I'd slow down and map it all, comparing against known good euro 84.
Stereo, aftermarket disabled, and foglight retiring to meet USA laws are typical possible reasons for cobble.
Fuse close ups show need to service -ensure correct amp ratings too.
Relay 8 thing bothers me.
Am away from my ref car and don't have my euro diagrams with me.
Trending Topics
#8
Team Owner
for the fuse thats gotten hot see the brown area # 15 ,
check that your getting power from the back side of the CE panel out of both ends of the fuse,
the fuse holder will corrode where its connected inside the plastic of the CE panel,
and thus create resistance and then the power wont be transferred,
I have found this issue more than a few times,
you can remove a non used fuse holder and replace it to the #15 slot, this should restore the power transfer.
Dont simply try to rerout the #15 fuse to another slot as the grounds on the back are all tied in to each circuit
The white wire will take some investigation to figure out.
though it will probably go to another connector pin in the same plug, as they dont usually jump connectors
It also looks like the blue connector is missing
check that your getting power from the back side of the CE panel out of both ends of the fuse,
the fuse holder will corrode where its connected inside the plastic of the CE panel,
and thus create resistance and then the power wont be transferred,
I have found this issue more than a few times,
you can remove a non used fuse holder and replace it to the #15 slot, this should restore the power transfer.
Dont simply try to rerout the #15 fuse to another slot as the grounds on the back are all tied in to each circuit
The white wire will take some investigation to figure out.
though it will probably go to another connector pin in the same plug, as they dont usually jump connectors
It also looks like the blue connector is missing
#9
Thanks, Well the 14 pin connector looks fine, I started it two times after changing the wires,plugs, cleaned the grounds etc. Then hook up the dome lights and red door lights then nothing, Coould the Streeing Wheel lock have something to do with this no start problem. There are two very small wiring going to a strange looking connector on the metal frame of the lock area? I didn't touch a lot Could the immoblizer since be active even if the alarm hone is off? Strange how relay postion 8 makes it run.
#10
Rennlist Member
Relay 8 in a non US/Japan 84 is the 'electronic ignition' relay. It is not used in a Us 84. Yours is a twin dizzy euro, so relay 8 should be present. See 84 wiring diagram page 4 - relay VII is shown, page 6 it is not. What connector number is that one with the white hanging loose. Fuse 15 is the rear window wiper, horns and electric antenna. Two wires going to metal frame on lock area are likely the key in sensor/buzzer.
P.S I told you Chris ( Landseer) would be a great resource for you
Neil
P.S I told you Chris ( Landseer) would be a great resource for you
Neil
#13
How funny, I fixed the tach and mpg gauge. Now all I need to do is understand why if started with a relay in postion 8 I get the red euro voltage warning symbol, but I have 14.5 volts according to the gauge , and I can't shut the car off, and why when I do turn the key to off not only is it running but the volts gauge drops to 12 volts.....Hey with the tach working now every single thing other then my problem is fixed. Ever the headlight washers work, What a day....my wife and kids tell me I'm having fun.
#14
Rennlist Member
On the 84 CEL, part number 928.610.105.08 only used on ROW, not USA and Japan, relay 8 is the EZF relay, so it is needed. Pull relay I/II rear window defroster, does it shut off now? IIRC there was a problem caused by a back circuit that caused the engine to keep running if the rear defroster was on when the ignition key is turned off. Connector V has the trunk lid contact, electric antenna and sun roof. Look at the diagram for the 84 wiring - Connector V is shown with the references to where each wire goes to.