RFJ

so sorry for your loss,i can't imagine

Jerry Feather

Thanks Ray. And, if I have not adequately thanked all of you who have expressed your thoughts and concern about the loss of our daughter, I do now. The outpouring of sympathy from so many of you was and is truly valuable and very highly appreciated. Thanks so much. Jerry Feather, and on behalf of my entire family.

Strosek Ultra

Jerry, first I am very sorry for your loss. It seems you and I are in a similar situation. I also lost someone dear recently, my mother. Furthermore there are so many things needing attention so it is hard to find time for all the fun stuff one like to put the hands on.
Understand you like to have your intake under the hood. My priority is best possible power making the intake a straight shot to the valves. From my avatar picture you can see how it looks at the other engine having four Dellorto DRLA 48 carbs. At this time I am not sure how I like to modify the hood, it might be some kind of scoop.
Also I need to finish the last iteration of the racing intake port having the large 42mm valves spread apart by 3mm in order to enhance flow. I have done all the machining necessary. Installation of the valve seat rings and the valve guides as well as the porting job remains to be done.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ughout-19.html (Post #283).
Åke

Strosek Ultra

Tuomo, it is an optical illusion. The throttle bodies are all straight, no curving away from each other. In the picture the throttle bodies are held together by a flat aluminum bar which contributes to the illusion.
Åke

Imo000

I'm very sorry for your loss.

Jerry Feather

Thank you.

77tony

My Deepest Condolences. T

Jerry Feather

Thanks you, Tony. My regards to you and Tambra.

Jerry Feather

I dusted off the intake project, in between the stages of the Gas Cap project, and hammered the intake ends of the tubes out to match the bell mouths and decided to take them to the welder and have them welded together. I just don't have the time to try to perfect my own welding, and if I hire it done a little at a time the cost won't seem like so much.

When I get these back I think I'll be able to set most of it up and try to get the plenum sides opened up for the tubes so I can then start to design and fab the front and back of the plenum.

I still haven't decided whether to weld the tubes to Hans' beautiful bases or to try to epoxy them together. I think that decision will still wait a while.

I'm kind of anxious to get the sides and bottom of the plenum completed so that the final shape of the ribbed top will come into clear focus for me. I'm going to make the top out of a 3/8 inch thick aluminum plate and will machine some nice looking ribs or grooves in it in the mill. I think that will set it off real nicely on top of the engine.

Strosek Ultra

Jerry, will follow the progress on your intake project with interest. I would weld the tubes to the bases. Do not think epoxy them will be reliable in the long run. From welding the bases will warp to a certain degree, flycutting of the bases will probably be necessary. Picture showing the intake I made for the other engine.
Åke

Jerry Feather

OK, Ake. I think I'll stay with it for a while now. I have the tubes at the welder's and will probably pick them up later today or tomorrow. Although not needed in the Radical 928 project right now, or even very soon, it will be needed toward the end of that and having it done will be an advantage to completion then. A couple of things that I don't think I have mentioned before is that when the intake is finished I'll then need to redesign and fab a new water bridge and oil inlet. I'll also need to completely redesign and fab the air intake system from the top of the radiator back the the filter box, including the filter box, and then to the MAF. I have some thoughts in mind for all of that, but most of it will have to wait until this manifold is done, and the MAF is relocated.

As to welding the tubes to the Hans Bases, I am not sure what you have in mind about the flycutting. The tops of the bases are already recessed or flanged to accept the 2 inch tubing I'm using, although I wish the flanges were about 1/4 inch tall rather than about 1/8 inch. Do you have something else in mind? I am leaning toward welding, now especially since I have reviewed the concerns in this thread about pressure differentials. Welding may be needed to help add the stiffness required for that. Some of it is going to be hard to get to is one problem though.

Your picture looks like I have seen it before. Your shop is way way to neat. How do you get anything done there?

Jerry Feather

I picked up the welded tubes this afternoon and this evening I put thim kind of in place on the bases, but without the plenum side patterns, since I need to get them to stay in place with friction better so the patterns can be adjusted. I found that I had apparently marked one of them incorrectly so the bell mouth got welded on the wrong end. I made a new tube bend for that one and will take it back. I also find that one of them seems to have the bell mouth a bit out of alignment with the others on its side of the intake, so since I am going to have to have one welded I think I'll cut the other one apart and take about a quarter inch out it and have it rewelded.

Then when I get them all fitting snuggly and in alignment I'll make some progress with the sides of the plenum and then the front and back.

Here's what they look like as sort of fit right now.

Jerry Feather

Next I think I'm going to try to cluster these tubes a little tighter toward the center mainly to pull the front one back as much as possible so that I will have more room for a new water bridge, but it will also put the open end in a better presentation to the flow of air. The flow of air advantage will also be present with respect to the rear tube. It might even be an advantage to put a notch in the front and rear tube bell mouths so they cluster more closely to their neighbor tube. I'll see how that looks a little later, probably this evening.

(Edit) Well, that didn't amount to much. I guess that since the individual ports in the base are fixed, any rotation of the tubes at the base simply doesn't give much change in the space between for the upper ends to rotate enough to change the position at the front and back. I don't really need any more space at the back and I think I can get up to about a half inch at the front by simply notching the front tube's bell mouth, but even that may not be worth the effort. I'll think on that for a while.

Jerry Feather

While sitting here looking at the pictures I have most recently posted and looking at the lines I have drawn on the plenum base, it finally occurs to me that the back of the plenum simply needs to be finished straight across. That will help the back coordinate much better with whatever I have to come up with for an intake filter air box and will simplify the fabrication (of both) that much.

As to the front, I still need to try to finish it as far back under the tubes as possible in order to save space for whatever I'll need to do with the water bridge and the oil fill neck. I may still notch the A tube in order to pull it back at least that much for the same reason. I think I will also put a sort of tunnel under the A tube to gain some space above the water bridge for the oil neck. It will be sort of like the bigger tunnel in the rear of the base for the MAF.

Jerry Feather

It looks to me like I have strung Hans' Intake Base thread out way too far. Although I think I got in it by invitation about what folks might be doing with his great intake bases, I think my project might be a bit much at this point. I'm going to start my own thread about my intake design and development, and maybe cap it off in this thread when I have something finished. Thanks for watching. See you over there.