Running AA chipset on 87 and up 928
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Running AA chipset on 87 and up 928
Hey guys,
Anyone here running AA chips on there 87 and up 928?
I'd love to here your exsperiances both good or bad with them.
Thanks
Anyone here running AA chips on there 87 and up 928?
I'd love to here your exsperiances both good or bad with them.
Thanks
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Indeed, I hear good things about those. I have the AA's already just haven't installed them yet. Just wanted to get some opinions on them from some guys who are or have run them.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,329
Received 1,543 Likes
on
1,007 Posts
The AA chips are useful for a few things:
- increasing the tendency of a 928 to knock
- increasing probability of screwing up idle stability
- increasing the tendency of a 928 to knock
- increasing probability of screwing up idle stability
#7
Rennlist Member
Do to the factorys conservative programing of the 85/86 (they did not have knock sensors) the AA chips do improve performance, however not as much as PorKen's chips.
The 87 and up not so much as with these MY's now having knock/cam sensors, the factory tune was more aggressive.
The 87 and up not so much as with these MY's now having knock/cam sensors, the factory tune was more aggressive.
Trending Topics
#8
I've pulled a dozen or so and tossed them in the trash. Nothing like adding more fuel to an already over fueled car, raising a rev limiter to higher, useless ranges, and adding timing where it is not needed.
Get chips done properly for your car via Shark Tuning or wait for Porken to get some good/true results.
Get chips done properly for your car via Shark Tuning or wait for Porken to get some good/true results.
#9
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Summer driving with them gave audible knocking at low engine speed and medium throttle. Replaced with the GT set (vs the original S4 set) and there was some relief but not enough. Mine sit enshrined in a little $300 plastic display box. The value must be the box, since the chips didn't inspire confidence. Maybe I drove the car wrong... In cooler weather, the seat-of-the-pants feel was for sharper throttle response in the mid- to upper- RPM ranges. Reality, at least where I live in southern California, is that it's warmer a lot more than it's colder, and that there's a lot more low- to mid- RPM range operation than upper ranges where there might be a benefit.
John Speake's Sharktuner along with Jim C's SharkPlotter software make it possible and practical to configure custom mapping for your specific car and its particular idiosyncrasies. The most current cam timing guidance helps you tailor the engine torque map for the transmission and to the driving you do, using PorKen's brilliant little 34V'r tool. Then the brains get mapped for the corrected cam timing and any mods you may or may not have done, all to get max performance from what you have.
Recommendation: Bring everything you have now up to new standards. Injectors and intake are cleaned to as-new condition. Make sure that your breather and ventilation hoses are good with no leakage. Have the MAF refreshed so it correctly reads the airflow going into the engine. Make sure that the cam drive stuff (belt, gears, idlers and tensioner) are in new or close-to-new condition. Make sure you have good wires/caps/rotors, and new plugs. Verify that compression is good and even on all cylinders. Verify with a diagnostic tool that your cam position Hall sensor is good, and the the knock sensors are good and working. Verify that the intake flappy is working and plumbed correctly (solenid valve hoses correct). verify that your vacuum hoses are intact and connected correctly. Check fuel pressure and delivery per the WSM specs. Then, and only then, go after the mapping in the controllers with the Sharktuner.
John Speake's Sharktuner along with Jim C's SharkPlotter software make it possible and practical to configure custom mapping for your specific car and its particular idiosyncrasies. The most current cam timing guidance helps you tailor the engine torque map for the transmission and to the driving you do, using PorKen's brilliant little 34V'r tool. Then the brains get mapped for the corrected cam timing and any mods you may or may not have done, all to get max performance from what you have.
Recommendation: Bring everything you have now up to new standards. Injectors and intake are cleaned to as-new condition. Make sure that your breather and ventilation hoses are good with no leakage. Have the MAF refreshed so it correctly reads the airflow going into the engine. Make sure that the cam drive stuff (belt, gears, idlers and tensioner) are in new or close-to-new condition. Make sure you have good wires/caps/rotors, and new plugs. Verify that compression is good and even on all cylinders. Verify with a diagnostic tool that your cam position Hall sensor is good, and the the knock sensors are good and working. Verify that the intake flappy is working and plumbed correctly (solenid valve hoses correct). verify that your vacuum hoses are intact and connected correctly. Check fuel pressure and delivery per the WSM specs. Then, and only then, go after the mapping in the controllers with the Sharktuner.
#14
Rennlist Member