The cheap part of powder coating is the actual coating!
#1
Rennlist
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The cheap part of powder coating is the actual coating!
Everyone is always talking about how "cheap" they got their powder coating done. When I do this for a customer, it is really expensive....but the expensive part isn't the actual powder coating....it's the process that we use to put it all back together that sucks up the hours.
I get to see a lot of engines that are turned into absolute scrap metal, from this process. From cheaper older engines that people are trying to make look better to a high end Devek stroker engine. Poor preparation, poor workmanship, doesn't discriminate.
Here's why. These pictures are of a manifold that just came back, from powder coating. We blew it out, first, and them started "picking" in the corners to get all the debris out. This is a picture during that "scraping process"
And I poured what I could, onto a plate, to give you an idea of how much debris gets caught up above the venturis.
Remember, this is from one manifold that was blown out throughly!
Now, how much did you pay?
I get to see a lot of engines that are turned into absolute scrap metal, from this process. From cheaper older engines that people are trying to make look better to a high end Devek stroker engine. Poor preparation, poor workmanship, doesn't discriminate.
Here's why. These pictures are of a manifold that just came back, from powder coating. We blew it out, first, and them started "picking" in the corners to get all the debris out. This is a picture during that "scraping process"
And I poured what I could, onto a plate, to give you an idea of how much debris gets caught up above the venturis.
Remember, this is from one manifold that was blown out throughly!
Now, how much did you pay?
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#2
Agree 110%. I usually spend quite an amount of time cleaning those out, it's amazing how much crap is stuck in off places.
#4
The S4 intake is a tough cookie in certain ways for this issue as well. When you have the S4 intake, at least on the runners, you can really loosen everything with a wire wheel the internal size of the runner and with a drill clean them well.
Another rennlister also mentioned vinegar for treating the raw unpainted sandblasted castings. Works great for extra cleaning and particle release.
Another rennlister also mentioned vinegar for treating the raw unpainted sandblasted castings. Works great for extra cleaning and particle release.
#5
you have no idea... sand blasting an intake before powder coating will result in an engine failure when the embedded sand and powdercoating break loose and go through the engine.... the contaminating the oil, sanding the cylinder walls burning the rings, and the bearings.....the intake is a very soft magnesium alloy so sand blasting embeds the blasting material until it is heat cycled and bakes out... on the 1st drive....
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#8
Rennlist Member
Actually....
you have no idea... sand blasting an intake before powder coating will result in an engine failure when the embedded sand and powdercoating break loose and go through the engine.... contaminating the oil, sanding the cylinder walls burning the rings, and the bearings.....
There have been some tragic casualties....documented in the 'list.
With the new people coming in, there's a good reason to keep it "Front and Centre".
And, when you think you've got it surgically clean....do it again.....
It only takes a very (VERY) small amount of blasting medium to fry your engine.
#9
Better to be OCD and hyperactive to get these clean.
#12
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Which brings up an interesting story.
One year, at Daytona, all of the RSR engines had cylinder heads which had casting "sand" trapped inside the castings. The manufacturer had "sealed" the castings inside with some sort of an epoxy, to help prevent oxidation. This "sealant" glued the sand in....until the heads got really hot and expanded.
Every single engine lost multiple water pumps (plastic impellers), during that race. The "factory technitions" got to the point where they could change a water pump and re-fill the cooling system in about 11 minutes.
Long night for those guys....
One year, at Daytona, all of the RSR engines had cylinder heads which had casting "sand" trapped inside the castings. The manufacturer had "sealed" the castings inside with some sort of an epoxy, to help prevent oxidation. This "sealant" glued the sand in....until the heads got really hot and expanded.
Every single engine lost multiple water pumps (plastic impellers), during that race. The "factory technitions" got to the point where they could change a water pump and re-fill the cooling system in about 11 minutes.
Long night for those guys....
#13
Race Director
Which brings up an interesting story.
One year, at Daytona, all of the RSR engines had cylinder heads which had casting "sand" trapped inside the castings. The manufacturer had "sealed" the castings inside with some sort of an epoxy, to help prevent oxidation. This "sealant" glued the sand in....until the heads got really hot and expanded.
Every single engine lost multiple water pumps (plastic impellers), during that race. The "factory technitions" got to the point where they could change a water pump and re-fill the cooling system in about 11 minutes.
Long night for those guys....
One year, at Daytona, all of the RSR engines had cylinder heads which had casting "sand" trapped inside the castings. The manufacturer had "sealed" the castings inside with some sort of an epoxy, to help prevent oxidation. This "sealant" glued the sand in....until the heads got really hot and expanded.
Every single engine lost multiple water pumps (plastic impellers), during that race. The "factory technitions" got to the point where they could change a water pump and re-fill the cooling system in about 11 minutes.
Long night for those guys....
#14
We've had two engines here that basically looked like they had sand paper running in the cylinder bores. One of them was Devek Stroker, the other one was just a standard S4 who thought they had washed out the intake "well enough". It's one of the reasons I prefer to paint them myself as opposed to sending them out to be powder coated. At least when I paint them I've had my hands on them the entire time and I know what has been done.
For those that are sent out to be coated, doing what Greg has shown is the only way to ensure that I won't be replacing an engine in a few days after the car has been delivered.
For those that are sent out to be coated, doing what Greg has shown is the only way to ensure that I won't be replacing an engine in a few days after the car has been delivered.
#15
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Baking Soda is the way to go, it dissolves in water. Been using soda and glass beading my Harley motors for over 40 years. Also spray Rustoleum primer in the engine cases.
As a side note, been running my Harley parts thru the ole lady's dishwasher for as long as we've had one. She gets really pissed, but I've never had any debris from blasting in one of my engines, after a couple of wash cycles.
As a side note, been running my Harley parts thru the ole lady's dishwasher for as long as we've had one. She gets really pissed, but I've never had any debris from blasting in one of my engines, after a couple of wash cycles.