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Although I don't see a ton of posts about that related to the donut, I would think it certainly could, combined with the more common issues of failing rack bushings, worn tie rods, sloppy u-joints etc. Its a system where a little slop in each of those is cumulative.
It is also a 32 year old rotting rubber part on a critical system, where failure could be _interesting_. Easy/Cheap to change at this point, so certainly worth doing as cheap insurance.
Stand by, someone will come out with a delrin alternative, after weeks of back and forth about the merits of higher durometer vs factory OEM.
It is alive! First start after transplant.
Two initial issues:
1. Bad CPS. I reused the CPS that came with motor, but I did rebuild the connector. Not good enough. This caused initial no-start condition.
2. Sustained high idle and difficult restart: Bad Temp-2 right out of box. It was a "New Old Stock" sensor that I had picked up a while ago as a group of spares.
Great job but you missed the step where you set your MAF on fire!
uggh!
I did pressure test the fuel system first by jumpering the fuel pump relay and letting it build pressure well before trying an actual start. I then went around to each fuel junction and felt and sniffed it for gas smell/wetness.
Finally, I had three extinguishers sitting around at strategic locations.
I did pressure test the fuel system first by jumpering the fuel pump relay and letting it build pressure well before trying an actual start. I then went around to each fuel junction and felt and sniffed it for gas smell/wetness.
Finally, I had three extinguishers sitting around at strategic locations.
I've read the horror stories!
Yeah I did the same and avoided a conflagration, but I managed to reverse the wiring on my rebuilt MAF connector. DOH!
1. The top fan shroud is off because I am currently running only distilled water for a while to flush the system. I will put in regular coolant shortly, but it is easier to get the top hose off with top shroud also removed.
2. Timing gun was already hooked up because I was using that to look for ignition pulses during my no-start troubleshooting. No CPS= No ignition, no tach bounce and no fuel pump. Can't hear the fuel pump when motor cranking, tach bounce unreliable in my car as the tach tends to stick during initial start up (I'll get to it eventually), so I needed a way to look for ignition pulses.
On a separate topic I read further up the thread that you used the Perfex adapter to get your GTS brakes installed but had a couple of fitment issues along the way. Are those all sorted out now?
On a separate topic I read further up the thread that you used the Perfex adapter to get your GTS brakes installed but had a couple of fitment issues along the way. Are those all sorted out now?
Yes, sorted and working well. On that note, it is likely time for a caliper rebuild.
I have been neglecting this thread for other things, but I wanted to bring it up to date. This was my first motor pull. As such, I expected issues and mistakes. I was not disappointed. I made several mistakes and had several issues. By putting them here, hopefully it will help somebody else out, or at least give you a good laugh:
First, despite some assertions found elsewhere in this forum, the four hole Mustang injectors that are a good replacement for the OE injectors DO need the proper O-Rings, caps and spacers ( from Roger), testing shows they do not seal well, at least in my intake, without them:
Mustang injectors out of the box:
Compare to OE injector with correct spacer and o-ring:
I replaced essentially ever wear/tear and rubber part the top of the motor. Except the CPS, for which I just rebuilt the connector with a kit from Roger. Since I am mentioning it here, you know how that went. CPS was dead. This led to the initial no start, and lots of wear on my mini-starter. But easy diagnosis and fix. No flash on the timing light and no tach bounce.
Next:
Most of you are aware that the firing order/plug wiring is shown as both a sticker and is subtly numbered on the cam belt cover. My sticker is long gone, and I knew my crinkle coat would hide the numbering on the cam cover, so I carefully labeled the distributor cover and wires during disassembly. I labeled the passenger side wrong. This led to a poorly running motor. Lots of head scratching on this, but a post by Jim Bailey ( don't have the link) made me double check.
I had a NOS Temp II sensor that I had picked up at some time in the past. Looked pristine, and still on box. It was way out of spec. Of course, I did not test it before install. Pulled the known good, but used, from old motor and was GTG.
At the time of assembly, Bosch ISV's for the S3 were unavailable. (Unsure of current status), so I had to buy an off brand. It worked for at least a short while. This one caused a real headache, as it is difficult to diagnose directly, and I did not consider it as a prime candidate (as it was new) during troubleshooting. I took that opportunity to install new O2 sensor, but it did not help. Finally pulled that one and ,once again, installed known good, but used, from old motor and booyah, idle perfect.
On the bright side, I finally gathered a very good set up to look for intake leaks. I had no leaks throughout, very tight system, but it is a good tool set to have. Will post followup when I have pictures.
Current and hopefully final issue related to motor swap:
While motor was out, I also swapped out a steering rack that was sloppy. It had so much vertical play/slop that my alignment guy could not get it set accurately, so I was replacing with another rebuilt unit. That unit lasted ~200 miles, then failed on the power assist side, see this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-at-track.html
I am dealing with that now.
For those of you counting, I had three items that were Dead On Install or shortly thereafter:
1. Temp II
2. ISV
3. Steering Rack.
03-03-2017, 10:04 PM
