Dave_Bratley

So all my parts arrived from the US, belts, tensioner rollers, bushes, o-ring, tensioner boot etc...

I's attached my flywheel lock tool - first time I go to use it - it slips and flywheel turns! So that gives me a lot of confidence!!

I reset the flywheel and set a jack underneath the lock tool after bolting it to the case.

I have a 36" jacking handle as an extension to my breaker bar(s)... two broken 3/4" breaker bars later, I feel like I've spent half a day in the gym and the crank bolt hasn't moved a nano metre!!

Do you ever feel you wish you hadn't started a project - it's cold and snowing, I have a stack of work I should be doing and I have my car in pieces and I can't finish the job - oh an I'm moving in less than three weeks. So I should be packing not panicking!


I don't suppose there is a tip on how to get the crank bolt off or an alternative way to get the belt off is there?

Ad0911

I used a really long iron tube over the breaker bar rod to prevent the braker bar from bending or breaking itself. And a rediculous long L shaped bar fixed to the flywheel and resting on the floor sideways to prevent the flywheel from turning, but that would be the same as the lock tool.

For me the o-**** moment came when I tried to pull the prise bearing out of the crankshaft. It let the internals go (***** etc) but not the outer race.

risaac928

Man...I feel for you and know the feeling....tell me again "why" you are trying to remove the "crank bolt"....

John Speake

Dave, the bolts that hold the blanking cover in place for the auto are too short for the lock tool - did you replace them with longer ones ?

Rather than a slow pull on the breaker bar, try the shock treatment if possible.

Dave_Bratley

Hi risaac928 - replacing the timing belt. While I am in there I am replacing all the belts and overhauling the tensioner system.
It's just this darn crank bolt you have to take off so you can get the pulleys off and the harmonic balancer etc and then get to the belt.

DG84S

I used a hydraulic floor jack and a piece of galvanized pipe over the breakover bar. Saved a lot of cussin' and bleedin'.

Dave_Bratley

Hi John, yes - I grabbed some slightly longer ones out of my tool box and ground them back a little so they were not too long and then re-cut the threads with a die so they were nice and clean - so that took a while. You are right the original ones are too short due to the thickness of the tool plate.
I think I'll have to try a different set-up to be able to shock it - I think there's a little too much 'play' for that approach to be effective - I need to buy another breaker bar now and I'll see if I can find a slightly tighter fitting extension bar too. Thanks John.

Lizard928

Only use a T handle breaker bar. A regular breaker bar WILL break if you are sniping it.

928 at last

And for god's sake, be careful where the bar is when the bolt releases......you don't want to trash a fender...........
I used a 6' steel pipe over a breaker bar, and it took all of it to get the bolt to release. and just missed the fender........

Dave_Bratley

6 foot!!! blimey - ok

SeanR

We need to find another one of these for the tool loaner program.

No, you can't use mine.

Dave_Bratley

Hi - unfortunately I was using a really good and chunky T handle breaker bar that I've had for about 30 years! It is alas no more...

Spun

Going to sound funny, but are turning it the right way?

I use my 3/4 drive and a 4-5' square tube. Big yank and pow! I was free. Yeah!!

Dave_Bratley

spun - looking at the car from the front - I am trying to turn it in an anti-clockwise direction.

risaac928

Post some pics. .I want to see what is going on in there. ... good luck. ..