B@#£$** Crank bolt 928 Auto S2 1985
#31
Rennlist Member
#32
Three Wheelin'
Actually it came off fine with a long pipe on a breaker bar, 1/2" drive. Used a rod through the flywheel as a lock. Although i did try with an impact first, so i assume this helped out too.
#33
Nordschleife Master
Mentioned, perhaps, but repeating...
Do you have the right flywheel lock? There are two. Newer locks handle both.
Ya gotta pull the harmonic balancer to replace the timing belt. So ya gotta get the crank bolt loose.
Put a towel or other pad on the right fender just in case the bar hits there.
People who use the starter risk damaging flywheel teeth.
Sooo...
Spray in some penetrating oil. Use a 6-point impact socket with breaker bar and iron pipe extension and then PULL!
Do you have the right flywheel lock? There are two. Newer locks handle both.
Ya gotta pull the harmonic balancer to replace the timing belt. So ya gotta get the crank bolt loose.
Put a towel or other pad on the right fender just in case the bar hits there.
People who use the starter risk damaging flywheel teeth.
Sooo...
Spray in some penetrating oil. Use a 6-point impact socket with breaker bar and iron pipe extension and then PULL!
Last edited by GlenL; 01-27-2013 at 07:09 PM.
#34
Mentioned, perhaps, but repeating...
Do you have the right flywheel lock? There are two. Newer locks handle both.
Ya gotta pull the flywheel to replace the timing belt. So ya gotta get the flywheel bolt loose.
Put a towel or other pad on the right fender just in case the bar hits there.
People who use the starter risk damaging flywheel teeth.
Sooo...
Spray in some penetrating oil. Use a 6-point impact socket with breaker bar and iron pipe extension and then PULL!
Do you have the right flywheel lock? There are two. Newer locks handle both.
Ya gotta pull the flywheel to replace the timing belt. So ya gotta get the flywheel bolt loose.
Put a towel or other pad on the right fender just in case the bar hits there.
People who use the starter risk damaging flywheel teeth.
Sooo...
Spray in some penetrating oil. Use a 6-point impact socket with breaker bar and iron pipe extension and then PULL!
Why??
#37
Nordschleife Master
#38
Yes I understand what he meant - I didn't try and remove the flywheel!
Any way, a quick update for you all.
I bought a new 3/4" breaker bar from Halfords - it says on the handle "do not shock and do not use an extension bar" I decided to ignore this...
We are moving house soon and I decided that the kids have out grown the trampoline in the garden and I won't take it with us... So I cut off three of the legs and made an extendable extension bar approx 6 and a bit foot long.
Guess what - the bolt came off like a dream!
So thanks to you all for the advice and tips - it gave me the confidence to giver it a bit more welly.
Any way, a quick update for you all.
I bought a new 3/4" breaker bar from Halfords - it says on the handle "do not shock and do not use an extension bar" I decided to ignore this...
We are moving house soon and I decided that the kids have out grown the trampoline in the garden and I won't take it with us... So I cut off three of the legs and made an extendable extension bar approx 6 and a bit foot long.
Guess what - the bolt came off like a dream!
So thanks to you all for the advice and tips - it gave me the confidence to giver it a bit more welly.
#41
Update on that damn crank bolt and replacing the belts...
risaac928 - sorry job pretty much done now - not much I can show you all in terms of pics...
Put it all back together this morning, started first time! Sounded really good. No leaks or signs of flappy belts. Just ran it on tick over until engine warmed up. Unfortunately I need to go back in - two problems remain...
1) the belt is not running dead in the middle of the cam sprocket (see pic below - see I did listen to you risaac928). It is a bit too far forward toward the radiator and needs to go back a few mm - so I will have to loosen the tensioner and try to wiggle the belt into the middle a bit more whilst turning the engine via the crank bolt.
2) Lastly, after all that work - I am left with one very clean looking M8 bolt approx 2.5" with a nut and split washer and normal washer... I cannot for the life of me work out where it's missing from - I am thinking one of the belt driven accessories such as air pump, air con, alternator etc... but can't see anything obvious. Oh well it could have been worse - there could have been two bolts left over
Two pics attached for sharing - one showing the engine bay with right hand cam cover still off and the other a close up of the slightly misaligned timing belt.
Put it all back together this morning, started first time! Sounded really good. No leaks or signs of flappy belts. Just ran it on tick over until engine warmed up. Unfortunately I need to go back in - two problems remain...
1) the belt is not running dead in the middle of the cam sprocket (see pic below - see I did listen to you risaac928). It is a bit too far forward toward the radiator and needs to go back a few mm - so I will have to loosen the tensioner and try to wiggle the belt into the middle a bit more whilst turning the engine via the crank bolt.
2) Lastly, after all that work - I am left with one very clean looking M8 bolt approx 2.5" with a nut and split washer and normal washer... I cannot for the life of me work out where it's missing from - I am thinking one of the belt driven accessories such as air pump, air con, alternator etc... but can't see anything obvious. Oh well it could have been worse - there could have been two bolts left over
Two pics attached for sharing - one showing the engine bay with right hand cam cover still off and the other a close up of the slightly misaligned timing belt.
#42
Rennlist Member
After changing my WP and belt a few months ago I also found the belt running in much the same position as yours. This is certainly further forward than previously, as witnessed by the clean tracks on the cam gears.
Here on the list I was told that this should not be a concern, but I'm not 100% happy with it as it is.
Trying to move the belt over won't help, once the engine runs it will find its own position.
You changed the bushes and pivot bolt in the tensioner arm ?
Here on the list I was told that this should not be a concern, but I'm not 100% happy with it as it is.
Trying to move the belt over won't help, once the engine runs it will find its own position.
You changed the bushes and pivot bolt in the tensioner arm ?
#43
Hi John,
I didn't change the pivot bolt, but I did change the bushes. There was no noticeable 'play' when I reassembled it - it all seemed fine and snug. I'll try moving the belt and testing it again and see if it goes back to the current position again. I have some spare time now - I'll pop out and do it and report back...
Edit: OK - I wrestled the belt into a more central position, turning the engine over by hand. Looked fine. Checked the belt tension.
Re-started the engine - belt moved forward to the position in the picture above - you were right John.
I didn't change the pivot bolt, but I did change the bushes. There was no noticeable 'play' when I reassembled it - it all seemed fine and snug. I'll try moving the belt and testing it again and see if it goes back to the current position again. I have some spare time now - I'll pop out and do it and report back...
Edit: OK - I wrestled the belt into a more central position, turning the engine over by hand. Looked fine. Checked the belt tension.
Re-started the engine - belt moved forward to the position in the picture above - you were right John.
Last edited by Dave_Bratley; 02-06-2013 at 10:33 AM.