Brian's 79 REHAB
#17
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I was VERY disappointed with the dye color from leatherique once dried. I know that I should have sent a sample in like requested, however, like a big dork I just said, "just send me the porsche cork." Predictable results. Fortunately, I only tried it out on the center console. Leatherique has a fairly liberal customer service policy so I am sending the dye back, with a sample of the color needed and MIGHT have to pay a $30 PIA fee.
So off to the carpet. I was able to pull the door panels and get them set up and installed the three largest pcs in the car today .
If the weather hold out I might have the door panels put back in tomorrow and all of the smaller pcs installed.
So off to the carpet. I was able to pull the door panels and get them set up and installed the three largest pcs in the car today .
If the weather hold out I might have the door panels put back in tomorrow and all of the smaller pcs installed.
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey Mike-- You may be totally correct. The dye that was sent was more of a beige or tan. No hints of cinnamon or reds. Not even close. I would settle for a solid finish in the same color (cork).
As I stated previously, It was totally my fault for not sending in the swatch for a color match. I tried to do it by code only. I am confident that all will be well soon. The door armrest seems to be a formed material that has a much more smooth generic look to it. I may have to settle for that look on the center console. I have yardage on the vynil that could be used for the upper portion of the doors and the door cards if needed, but I would prefer to dye the original.
I should know in a week or two. Carpet should be totally complete in the next couple of days. Dash and Pod by end of Feb. If I can sell some OB parts I may order new seat covers as the old ones have great color but have tears beyond my ability to repair.
As I stated previously, It was totally my fault for not sending in the swatch for a color match. I tried to do it by code only. I am confident that all will be well soon. The door armrest seems to be a formed material that has a much more smooth generic look to it. I may have to settle for that look on the center console. I have yardage on the vynil that could be used for the upper portion of the doors and the door cards if needed, but I would prefer to dye the original.
I should know in a week or two. Carpet should be totally complete in the next couple of days. Dash and Pod by end of Feb. If I can sell some OB parts I may order new seat covers as the old ones have great color but have tears beyond my ability to repair.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The last week or so I have been working on the carpeting for the door panels and the smaller interior pieces. Today the replacement dye from Leatherique arrived and it looks fantastic. I tested it on a smaller trim ps and compared to the new vinyl I have in and it looked great. I have dyed the door panels, the door cards and the rear quarters. They are drying now and will need a second look tomorrow. I hope to re-install these pcs this week and start taking measurements for the rear seat delete. The dash and the pod should be ready by the end of the month. The only thing left then will be the front seats.
#22
Team Owner
Hi Brian nice restoration job you have going, I really like the cork colored interiors.
I was going to suggest that you use a different adhesive for the installation of any interior carpets or other materials
I have been using Weldwood contact cement found at HD
use the stuff in the red can not the green stuff .
This is a brush on adhesive its a bit more time consuming to apply,
However the glue works very well.
I have found that most any type of spray can adhesive works well when first applied,
but after time it loses its grip as the car sees heat cycles,
thus you will be left with the carpet falling off.
Also not really sure if your applying the door carpet with staples,
I would also suggest to use them.
The reason that the Weldwood works so well is that it wakes up the factory adhesive and creates a better long term bond.
Also make sure to install the drip panels and the vapor barrier to the doors prior to installing the door panels,
you can use a shower curtain from the dollar store, get one in clear use the weldwood to install it.
Lubricate the inside door latch mechanism with good quality spray oil prior to putting the door back together,
fix the door open arrester or replace it so the door stays open.
Fix the door edge lights and make sure to silicone the wire sleeve to the boot,
so water wont sit in the bulb housing and corrode the wires.
Inspect the wire harness for chafing wires where the bundle enters the door fix as needed
I was going to suggest that you use a different adhesive for the installation of any interior carpets or other materials
I have been using Weldwood contact cement found at HD
use the stuff in the red can not the green stuff .
This is a brush on adhesive its a bit more time consuming to apply,
However the glue works very well.
I have found that most any type of spray can adhesive works well when first applied,
but after time it loses its grip as the car sees heat cycles,
thus you will be left with the carpet falling off.
Also not really sure if your applying the door carpet with staples,
I would also suggest to use them.
The reason that the Weldwood works so well is that it wakes up the factory adhesive and creates a better long term bond.
Also make sure to install the drip panels and the vapor barrier to the doors prior to installing the door panels,
you can use a shower curtain from the dollar store, get one in clear use the weldwood to install it.
Lubricate the inside door latch mechanism with good quality spray oil prior to putting the door back together,
fix the door open arrester or replace it so the door stays open.
Fix the door edge lights and make sure to silicone the wire sleeve to the boot,
so water wont sit in the bulb housing and corrode the wires.
Inspect the wire harness for chafing wires where the bundle enters the door fix as needed
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the kind words Stan. I am sorry but I don't understand the part about the vapor barrier. Care to expand?
#24
Team Owner
OK on each door you will have openings,
take a piece of plastic and secure it to the top of each opening, The weldwood works well here or you can use good box tape.
then cut the plastic so it will hang inside and below the lower edge of the opening by about 2 inches.
also cut it so the front and rear edges of the drip panels sits inside the door
This is called a drip panel.
when the door gets wet water will run down the inside of the door and hit these panels,
the water will stay outside the inner portion of the door and drain out the lower edge.
Once your drip panels are in place,
then cover the whole door with a piece of plastic this will seal the door and keep it like a drum .
This piece is called a vapor barrier.
It will keep out any water that may get past the drip panels.
You do want the plastic to go to the outside edges of the pin holes,
use a Phillips to poke holes into each hole, both push pin and screw hole..
If water does get to the vapor barrier you want it to drain down below the door panel,
so the carpet wont get wet and the lower edge of the door panel wont crumble.
NOTE if you dont install these pieces,
then your door panels will eventually get moldy and then the lower edges will crumble and the carpet will come loose.
The door will also sound hollow when its closed instead of the thunk that you would hear if the vapor barrier is in place.
take a piece of plastic and secure it to the top of each opening, The weldwood works well here or you can use good box tape.
then cut the plastic so it will hang inside and below the lower edge of the opening by about 2 inches.
also cut it so the front and rear edges of the drip panels sits inside the door
This is called a drip panel.
when the door gets wet water will run down the inside of the door and hit these panels,
the water will stay outside the inner portion of the door and drain out the lower edge.
Once your drip panels are in place,
then cover the whole door with a piece of plastic this will seal the door and keep it like a drum .
This piece is called a vapor barrier.
It will keep out any water that may get past the drip panels.
You do want the plastic to go to the outside edges of the pin holes,
use a Phillips to poke holes into each hole, both push pin and screw hole..
If water does get to the vapor barrier you want it to drain down below the door panel,
so the carpet wont get wet and the lower edge of the door panel wont crumble.
NOTE if you dont install these pieces,
then your door panels will eventually get moldy and then the lower edges will crumble and the carpet will come loose.
The door will also sound hollow when its closed instead of the thunk that you would hear if the vapor barrier is in place.
#25
Team Owner
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Second run on the dye today for the door panels and rear Qtrs. I am torn on the console and glove box though. I had intended on just coloring them up, however I have a (additional) cherry console that has been stripped of its old cracked leather and extra yardage of the material used for the dash. I may just take it to a local shop and have it "NEW" to match the dash and pod. If I do that I may as well have them do the glove box cover as well. I know I would be happier with the end result...I just hate to add to the budget.
I still have to buy the head unit and make a decision on the front seats. By the time this is all said and done I will have more $$$ in the interior of this car than the initial purchase price.
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
These door panels are really shaping up nicely. The pic is after the second coat of dye. The color looks great, the finish is more of a 10' finish though. haha. It has more streaking than I would have hoped for. I have put the third and final coat on the door panels, cards and rear quarters. I put a second coat on the center console just as a provisional. I dropped off the "un-cut" center console at a local shop yesterday to have recovered. They remembered recovering the rear quarters of my 83 several years ago so he shot me a VERY fair price. He also talked me out of recovering my glove box lid until my dash was re-installed. He had some very sound advice on how to level the sag that develops in the upper lines over the years.
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Finally decided to put something back in the car. The new carpet set looks awesome and the dyed panels look way better. I had not anticipated all the pillar and door trim so it looks like I get to start the multi step dye process all over again. I have a nice GTS shifter **** that is black I am am going to attempt making it the same cork color. Wish me luck.
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
After reading all of the threads concerning fuel issues and injectors clogged and such....would now be a good time to pull the injectors and have them cleaned?
With the interior work basically rendering the car in-op I would'nt suffer any additional down time.
Is that a DIY or is there a service that you have had good luck with?
With the interior work basically rendering the car in-op I would'nt suffer any additional down time.
Is that a DIY or is there a service that you have had good luck with?