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Starter tested fine. The tech cleaned it up a little to get good ground contact.
His opinion was that whatever is leaking on the main post has been doing it for a while. Old grime.
I just went back a few pages (page 13 I think) and found where the original issue started, car quit going down the road...and towed home. Weird, you had a couple power surges and it quit without much fanfare. Then you repaired wires and had a big poof of smoke and hole produced in the hard tube to slave cylinder.
Without lying on my back under there and seeing what's going on...I got nothing.
Besides checking that wiring harness from stem to stern.
Thanks Brian. The first incident was on the test drive after buttoning up the trans swap. That is why I thought perhaps I had poked a hole in the line by moving the starter.
The surge happened at a stop sign, clutch depressed.
The stall happens at a stop sign, clutch depressed.
The cut off (both times) happened when shifting from 1st to second, clutch depressed.
If I was dumping brake fluid on the starter post every time I pushed in the clutch it might make sense.
We will see. I am afraid that I have damaged the wiring harness. I expect to pull everything I need from the euro and just swap it all out.
I would say it's likely that hole is new, and the result of the last arcing.
There is no way your clutch will work with that hole in the metal tube.
It will just pump fluid right out that hole each time you depress the pedal.
(instead of building any pressure and disengaging...).
Thanks Mark. Is there a way or benefit to insulating the line when I put the new one in?? I ran across a spray insulator when shopping for the crimps. Or, since the line will be on the bench I could wrap it in rubber tape.?.?.?
Thanks Mark. Is there a way or benefit to insulating the line when I put the new one in?? I ran across a spray insulator when shopping for the crimps. Or, since the line will be on the bench I could wrap it in rubber tape.?.?.?
I wouldn't think that should be necessary Brian.
More important to sort out the routing/mounting.
You need to figure out why there was contact there.
Consider all the five speeds with that same tube.
Insulation may help, but won't address the root problem.
Something (starter/tube/terminals/cables) is mislocated..
Well I had time to dive into the 82 Euro S tonight. My plans WERE to remove the starter wiring, the alternator wiring and see where that led me to use the front harness on the 79.
I was impressed to see the jump post cover I wish I would have studied the post more before crawling under the car. I would have noticed it only had one wire on the post. The 79 has three or four.
Since I didn't notice that first, I removed the starter and the wiring, the alternator and the wiring and then tried to fish it up through the top. I could not believe that the harness ran behind the timing belt and under the water bridge. I had to remove the driver side timing belt cover, drain the radiator to remove the upper radiator hose, then the water bridge. That is when it hit me..... the harness from the 82 will not work, or is not the same as the harness on the 79.
While I was under there I noticed that the hard line from the slave to the master was different as well.
I will probably just remove all the wiring and the hard line from the 79 and see if I can salvage any of it. I went ahead and put the Euro back the way I found it. I knew if I waited until I was ready to fix it up it would be much more difficult.
I spent most of the day today on my back looking at this
That is where the hard line from the slave to master was.
I have a line on order and I wanted to save these connectors in case I need to have one made locally.
I attempted to order a front wiring harness from 928INT on the 50% off sale but they were not available.
I have decided to repair what I have. Previously, when I attempted the repair, I only re attached the connectors. I did not add any wire so I am sure I was connecting damaged wire to damaged wire. This time I have bought all new wire and connectors.
I have made 30" sections of each wire and all new connectors. I hope to make the wiring repairs by the time the clutch hard line comes in next week.
The luck in this case was bad insofar as shipping. The clutch line scanned into Atlanta today rather than my front porch. I hope to get it tomorrow or my time line is shot.
I expect that the electrical part has been remedied.
I wonder if I could hook up everything up just to start the engine without the clutch line installed. I would think that as long as I don't depress the brakes or the clutch it would be fine.?.?.?
The clutch line did not make it in. It is sitting at a terminal in Dalton GA which is only about 30 minutes south. The tracking says Friday/Monday delivery. I called UPS a little after lunch yesterday to see if I could just drive down and pick it up. The 800 number said that the terminal had already closed for the holiday. That gave me lots of extra time to do a thorough cleaning of the starter and the terminals. I carefully routed all of the wiring back to the stock position and remounted the starter and wired it back up. I am sure that I will have to remove all of this once the clutch line comes in but I wanted to make sure that all the connections were the proper size and the wire the right length.
My question is: Can I test the wiring while the clutch hose is off of the car??
Battery hooked up?
Key in off position?
Key in on position?
Even start the car? (in neutral and on jack stands)
While I have owned eight of these cars, I am not a mechanic. Each project is a learning experience. I would appreciate any shared experience or expertise.
12-19-2014, 02:28 PM
I wish I would have studied the post more before crawling under the car. I would have noticed it only had one wire on the post. The 79 has three or four.
