Mrmerlin

please verify that you have correctly installed both of the beveled washer on the link pin these will fit to the face of the hub carrier
Take a small prybar and see if the hub can be pried back and forth on the link pin

Bill Ball

What Stan said. The assembly does not look right. Here's my rear lower control arm. However, I'm still rather confused about what the problem is. Is the rotor moving? Is it just brake squealing?

awilli6

I took the rotor off and started to tighten the long bolt that goes through the bottom of the hub and heard a pop and the bolt became easier to turn. I think I broke it. Is this a hard bolt to find? I think I'm to the point where I'll let a real mechanic figure this one out.

Bertrand Daoust

If your talking about the long bolt that goes through the hub, control arm and shock, no there not hard to find.
928Intl have some used one.
Are you sure it is broke and not just spinning?
Did you use an impact gun?

awilli6

I didn't pull it out. When I tighten it the other end spins in the opposite direction. I don't think it's broken, but it did get a lot easier to turn.

awilli6

I did not use an impact

Bertrand Daoust

If it is turning, it is not tight enough for sure.
You need 103 lb on those.

dr bob

When you say 'opposite end turning in the other direction' you lost me. There is a nut on each end of the pin/rod. They are normal right-hand thread. So couter-clockwise to loosen. Hold the nut at one end in place, then loosen the nut on the other end. Easiest to try and remove the forward nut, then extract the pin/rod towards the rear. It won't go out the front with the disk backing plate/shield installed, so better to pull to the rear.

The pin will spin in all the bushings once tension is reduced. Installed correctly, the tension on that pin will lock the sleeve in the bottom eye of the shock absorber, pinch the carrier casting via the cone washers, and pinch the two bushing sleeves on the control arms. When tightened correctly, it may turn a little but only within the limits allowed by the shock bushing sleeve in its rubber bushing. Same as 'not much'.

awilli6

I didn't explain that well. The bolt turns as it should. I meant to tighten I turn the opposite end in the other direction. As it should be. I got frustrated and stopped before I did damage. I'll take it out tomorrow and check. Hopefully the pop was all pieces lining up correctly. Hopefully I can tighten it and all is well.

Bill Ball

That's a momma of a shaft. If it is broken, I'd like to see some pics of that!

From your description that you "started to tighten it", it must have been left loose, which would allow all kinds of shifting around, probably accounting for the noises you have been complaining about. Like others commented, this assembly should be 103 ft-lb. You put a wrench on one of the 22mm end nuts and tighten the other.

You might want to loosen it first and verify that all the pieces-parts are correct. In my picture, you can't see the conical washers, and they are not really visible until that big shaft is pulled out and the hub carrier is moved slightly.

awilli6

I don't think it broke. It wasn't easy trying to tighten it, but it was turning. My setup didn't look as close together as yours. I was very careful to ensure all the parts were put back on. I especially took note of those washers. I'm about to get on it in the next hour. Will update later.

awilli6

Ok, I just tried to tighten or remove the bold that goes thought the bottom of the rear hub. I think the nut is stripped on the bolt. Sometimes when I turn the nut on one end the other end does not turn and sometimes it does. The nuts never move. I have no idea how to remove this bolt to try and install another one.

HELP!!!

Bill Ball

You generally remove the caliper, rotor and backing plate unless you can get the forward nut completely off, in which case you would pull the shaft out towards the rear. I have had some luck getting both nuts off by using an air gun on the rear nut while holding the forward nut with a wrench. But the failsafe way is to remove all the brake stuff. Then you can pull the shaft out from either end depending on which nut comes off if only one does. Check the shaft for straightness, clean it up. It would surprise me if you could strip the threads on the shaft or nut. I suppose if somebody used a 300 ft-lb impact to put it on, you could do some damage. Note that getting the shaft back in can be a challenge as things don't naturally line up - the shock needs to be slightly compressed. Hard to do. I've use floor jack and various other tools to pull things into alignment. The shaft will hang on the shoulder where the threads end unless each section is well aligned with the next one. It might be easier to align the lower control arm assembly if you temporarily unfasten the swaybar droplink. Seems like you have found the problem. Keep plugging away and you'll get it.

awilli6

I know how to pull the bolt out. I just can't get the nuts to come off. They just spin in the same spot. Isn't that a sign that one of them is stripped?

I've taken all of the brake parts off again.

The bad: I can't get that area to tighten up.

The good: I've become a pro at putting on and taking off the rear right wheel brake parts

Glass half full! But I'm about to break the damn glass

WallyP

Just to be sure - what you are working on is a steel rod with a nut threaded on each end. The rod is NOT secured in the upright - you must hold one nut while you unscrew the other...

If you hold one nut while unscrewing the other, and one of the nuts just spins without unscrewing, then either the rod is broken (very unlikely), or one of the nuts is stripped. Sears, Harbor Freight, and virtually every parts store sells a "nut cracker". It will split the stripped nut so it can be removed.