Making a New Front Engine Harness S4
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Making a New Front Engine Harness S4
I have just remade my front engine harness on my S4, the wires were damaged at each end and when the original harness was dissected it was found the insulation within the center section had come apart on a majority of the wires.
For the benefit of others I have listed the items I have used. The only item reused was the 3 socket oil pressure sender as this is NLA.
Wires (thinwall high quatity automotive wire)
16mm2 x 6m (Red) Alternator - Starter - Jump Point Passenger Side (Two wires)
10mm2 x 3m (Red) Start - ABS connector Point Driver side
1mm2 x 3m (Blue) Pin 1 14 Pin Connector - Alternator
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/Black) Pin 2 14 Pin Connector - Oil Pressure Sender (NLA Connector use old one)
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/Yellow) Pin 3 14 Pin Connector - Coolant Temp Sender (Junior Power Timer Connector)
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/White) Pin 5 14 Pin Connector - Coolant Temp Sender (Junior Power Timer Connector)
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/Green) Pin 4 14 Pin Connector - Oil Pressure Sender (NLA Connector use old one)
1mm2 x 3m (Green/Blue) Pin 6 14 Pin Connector - Oil Level Switch (Female pin from Blower relay with flag cover)
1mm2 x 3m (Brown/Green)Pin 7 14 Pin Connector - Oil Pressure Sender (NLA Connector use old one)
1mm2 x 3m (Black) Pin 9 14 Pin Connector - A/C Compressor (In Line male/female socket )
2mm2 x 3m (Green) Pin 10 14 Pin Connector - Air Temp Sensor Intake ( Flag connector)
2mm2 x 3m (Brown) Pin 13 14 Pin Connector - Air Temp Sensor Intake ( Flag connector)
4mm2 x 3m (Yellow) Pin 14 14 Pin Connector - Starter
Sleeving
Heat Resistance Sleeving (I used a coated fiberglass/ kelvar braid)
25mm x 0.5m
16mm x 6m
6mm x 3m
4mm x 4m
Heavy Duty Lugs
50/8 x 1
35/8 x 1
16/6 x 1
10/6 x 1
Additional Items
14 pin connector, heat shrink.
Tools
Large Hex Crimper for lugs
Barrel Crimper for terminals in the Junior Power Timer Connector.
Flag Crimper for the flags
Soldering Iron for Pins in Connector
Cable puller
Wire Cutter
Third Hand (handy for the soldering of the pins)
Heat Gun
Multimeter
For the benefit of others I have listed the items I have used. The only item reused was the 3 socket oil pressure sender as this is NLA.
Wires (thinwall high quatity automotive wire)
16mm2 x 6m (Red) Alternator - Starter - Jump Point Passenger Side (Two wires)
10mm2 x 3m (Red) Start - ABS connector Point Driver side
1mm2 x 3m (Blue) Pin 1 14 Pin Connector - Alternator
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/Black) Pin 2 14 Pin Connector - Oil Pressure Sender (NLA Connector use old one)
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/Yellow) Pin 3 14 Pin Connector - Coolant Temp Sender (Junior Power Timer Connector)
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/White) Pin 5 14 Pin Connector - Coolant Temp Sender (Junior Power Timer Connector)
1mm2 x 3m (Blue/Green) Pin 4 14 Pin Connector - Oil Pressure Sender (NLA Connector use old one)
1mm2 x 3m (Green/Blue) Pin 6 14 Pin Connector - Oil Level Switch (Female pin from Blower relay with flag cover)
1mm2 x 3m (Brown/Green)Pin 7 14 Pin Connector - Oil Pressure Sender (NLA Connector use old one)
1mm2 x 3m (Black) Pin 9 14 Pin Connector - A/C Compressor (In Line male/female socket )
2mm2 x 3m (Green) Pin 10 14 Pin Connector - Air Temp Sensor Intake ( Flag connector)
2mm2 x 3m (Brown) Pin 13 14 Pin Connector - Air Temp Sensor Intake ( Flag connector)
4mm2 x 3m (Yellow) Pin 14 14 Pin Connector - Starter
Sleeving
Heat Resistance Sleeving (I used a coated fiberglass/ kelvar braid)
25mm x 0.5m
16mm x 6m
6mm x 3m
4mm x 4m
Heavy Duty Lugs
50/8 x 1
35/8 x 1
16/6 x 1
10/6 x 1
Additional Items
14 pin connector, heat shrink.
Tools
Large Hex Crimper for lugs
Barrel Crimper for terminals in the Junior Power Timer Connector.
Flag Crimper for the flags
Soldering Iron for Pins in Connector
Cable puller
Wire Cutter
Third Hand (handy for the soldering of the pins)
Heat Gun
Multimeter
#5
Burning Brakes
excellent job.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
It cost me around US$200 in parts (excluding shipping, tools etc), but that will vary depending on the quality of the wire and sleeving. The 14 pin connector is a pricey part in itself. I can't really give an idea of the time as I have dipped in an out of it over the last few weeks whilst doing other stuff.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Can you elaborate on the crimp tool you used for the junior timer connectors? I have looking for the right tool and the Tyco piece is insanely expensive. Thanks
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
The crimper was a rachet type for open barrel terminals which was purchased on eBay for US$25 with free shipping from china. I have used this crimper to replace the MAF, temp II connectors.
I also used a narrow multi style crimper ( this was free in a kit) with the open barrel crimper bit at the front of the tool to crimp the flag terminals.
The expensive crimper was the hex crimper for the larger lugs which was well over US$100.
I also used a narrow multi style crimper ( this was free in a kit) with the open barrel crimper bit at the front of the tool to crimp the flag terminals.
The expensive crimper was the hex crimper for the larger lugs which was well over US$100.
#10
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
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Looks good! Did you, by chance, make a diagram with exact lengths and conductor colors?
It would seem that buying bulk wire and making a batch of these would make a lot of sense. Most of the harnesses I've seen show serious signs of deterioration from heat. And what I see is just the exposed red primary at the end by the 14-pin and the jump post where things are pretty crispy. The rest of the harness, especially where it passes under the exhaust to the oil sender and the starter/alternator, is likely as bad or worse. Lots of "phantom" electrical issues magically disappear when tired wiring is replaced.
I have all the crimpers. I would probably build a nail-board for layout if more than one or two harnesses were needed. Modern wire insulation and the fiberglass-reinforced sleeve would bring the whole thing current. (sorry...)
It would seem that buying bulk wire and making a batch of these would make a lot of sense. Most of the harnesses I've seen show serious signs of deterioration from heat. And what I see is just the exposed red primary at the end by the 14-pin and the jump post where things are pretty crispy. The rest of the harness, especially where it passes under the exhaust to the oil sender and the starter/alternator, is likely as bad or worse. Lots of "phantom" electrical issues magically disappear when tired wiring is replaced.
I have all the crimpers. I would probably build a nail-board for layout if more than one or two harnesses were needed. Modern wire insulation and the fiberglass-reinforced sleeve would bring the whole thing current. (sorry...)
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
I made a diagram but it wasn't great, I'll be making another harness in the next month or so for a friends GTS and I'll measure the exact lengths of each wire then and add to this post a diagram showing such.
#12
Rennlist Member
i have thought about the same thing. I have wondered why we are not replacing the connectors with much better modern replacements. Any of the ford type weather tight connectors are VERY good connectors.
i realize that connections like the 14 pin connector would now have several weathertight's in it's place, but would this still not be a better alternative.
i realize that connections like the 14 pin connector would now have several weathertight's in it's place, but would this still not be a better alternative.
#14
Under the Lift
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Just to be complete, Carl sells these harnesses. EXCELLENT quality. Not cheap, but perhaps reasonable considering the parts costs you had, tools needed and labor.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/wiringharness.php
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/wiringharness.php
#15
Burning Brakes
Would you have the guide of what color wires go to which socket for the 3 soclet oil pressure. My wires are all bare and the wires are not attached.
Thanks
Thanks