Tampa 928s

At this point I think your Vortech solution looks good and going to order that. Once it's in I can decide on fan sizes and positioning.
From what I see this blocks very little of the radiator and would allow for larger fans.

ramcram

Zirgo do a 16" 3000CFM and a 16" 3630CFM where most are only 2000CFM or less.
It's not cheap but it is rated at only 10AMPS which is pretty good for that through put.
i'm going to try a 3630CFM to replace my stock pusher. I currently also have 2 x 8" Zirgo pullers but think they have way to big hub to be clamped to the core.
just did a long country run with ambient temp was 37C [98F] and with the air on it stayed under the 3/4 hot mark if I kept between 100-120kpm. Went up on steep inclines and back down on the downhill.
Too close to the limit for me.

Cosmo Kramer

When you get it update this thread and let me know how it goes. I bought my kit used so mine was already cut. You could possibly cut just a bit off the end and put a 90 deg bend on it and bring the duct down further away from the rad. This would allow for even more space for the fans.

auzivision

I should probably add mine only runs really hot under hard acceleration and/or hill climbing. Under normal driving with A/C it runs above horizontal and below 2nd bar. It's been a while since I've tested idle, A/C, and hot ambient (if ever) with S/C.

Also, after looking at the cobra heads in detail, it appears dimension “G” is the critical factor that can't be made small enough. Since the cross sectional area needs to meet the minimum, the more “G” is reduced the big “E” must be. The original Murph box is about optimized in shape/volume/area given these constraints... althought the lower corners could be reduced to make room for bigger fans.




Hey Ted, are you using a Murph bracket on your Vortech? It appears your setup might have a little more clearence. I like the shape and material of your cut down Vortech inlet, but it appears to be thicker... as in more "G". There is no room for anymore "G" on my setup. Could you please measure that dimesion on your setup?

Also I like your idea of using higher CFM fans. That and possibly moving/titling the radiator. I'm convinced that if the top to the radiator could be tilted forward only say a 1/3 to 1/2 inch. This would allow the pusher to blow more air through the middle which is the ‘dead zone’ now.

Another crazy outside the box thought I contemplate is auxiliary cooling. Sometimes I run the heater inside the car (even on hot days) to help with cooling. One could tap into the heater line and install a secondary heat exchanger in the fender or somewhere.

Jim R.

Got to say, my experiences are like Shane's...no issues with cooling. My radiator was replaced with a new factory behr unit a year before I got my car, and with the supplied 4 puller fans with the supplied pusher fan..90+ degrees making boost and with the ac on no problems. Hours of heat soaked dyno time, no problem.

I realize NY is not FL during the summer, but it gets pretty hot here for a couple of months. Does it run a few degrees hotter than stock? Maybe, been SC'd for too many years to remember stock.

Are you guys trying to cool your supercharged engine with a 22+ year old radiator?
Before going crazy trying to change stuff, maybe think about a new radiator..

Jim

soupcan

+928

I would think I am the closest Murfmobile to the equator and mine runs cool enough to keep the wife comfy when she takes it to work on occasion.

Cosmo Kramer

Not sure how old my rad is, but I don't have the Murf, mine is an old FAST kit with one 12" puller fan and a 16" pusher fan. The 12" that I got is marginal quality and I think it is the reason for my temps. My puller fan has an area of 113 sq inches vs 200 sq inches for the four 8" fans on the Murf. Once I put on a better 12" and a pair of 8" I am sure my problems will go away. I agree that ones that have the actual Murf kit with temp problems may have some other issues in the cooling system, seeing that some people have them in hot climates with absolutely no problems.

Mine is a FAST bracket, not a Murf. The round aluminum piece on my Vortech inlet has been ground down a bit to allow a bit more clearance, again this had already been done when I got it. The "G" measurement you are asking about is different on the Vortech as it is oval shaped and tilts away from the rad. I took a piece of 3.5" exhaust pipe, shaped it oval to fit and attached it using sheet metal screws. This gave me something sturdy to clamp the flexible tubing to.

I will get a measurement from the supercharger to the rad and let you know how much I have.

Be careful with this. CFM and amps usually increase together. Sometimes manufacturers are "optimistic" with their ratings. You can't move more air with the same amount of energy.

Tampa 928s

I spoke to Vortech "great customer service" and ordered the inlet duct Cosmo has. I asked about any other options they had one that was just what I needed but 3/4 inch to deep. They even went to the warehouse and measured both ducts for me.
Roger has sent me new end tanks, going tomorrow to have Rad shop tear it apart, rod it, clean it. If it looks like radiator will not seal I'll be forced to replace it.

Imo000

What's "rod it"?

Tampa 928s

Radiators can be cleaned by running a specific size rod through the channels. This removes any buildup and if really bad this will tell you its time to replace it.
I maybe wrong but unless it has a weak spot or bent fins, new tanks and correct cleaning should bring it up to specs.
I already did one radiator, rebuild shop ruined it, new WP, and every other coolant related part replaced. This radiator was used since last fall then the end tank started leaking due to sealing it with Rtv. So time to this one and take this off of the table as one cause. Since Its apart why not go the extra and mod what I have and be done with it!
My rebuilt compressor, R/D and parallel flow condenser is in and holding vacuum.

ramcram

You're right Cosmo, 10 Amps seems optimistic. I put their 2 8" fans on my test bench before I fitted them and wired together, they drew olny 6 Amps but of course, 8" is not 16" is it? That's a lot less blade to paddle through the breeze.

ramcram

They take off the end tanks and poke a rod [piece of wire] down each of the core tubes to push out any crap.

hacker-pschorr

I agree. The only advantage to a new(er) radiator is the later units have a better fine / core setup. Not sure what year this started so you may already have the later / better radiator.

I've cleaned out the cores of 928 radiators from cars that had no overheating or running hot issues and I was amazed how much crap came out. This summer I hope to have Todd convert two of my radiators to aluminum side tanks, give me a chance to clean them out too.

soupcan

Wife just sent these, she left work, been to the bank, grocery shopping and now heading to pick-up our son at school.

90 temp out, in traffic with a/c on, murf stage 3.

Tampa 928s

Of the 7 928's I have worked on I have never seen them run that cool in the summer heat, S/C or no S/C er. My 86 euro runs above that line all the time, what's your magic?