RFJ

could someone tell me what the stock pusher cfm is? on the 85?

Tampa 928s

Cosmo, how much boost are you running?
I am concerned that the heat under the hood maybe too hot for having the filter located there? It seems like I could run one fan with your setup.
Looking inside the airbox it only passes 1.5 inches of air at its narrowest point where it connects the S/C. Seems like your setup will not be much difference in air flow.

jetrainor

Following this post as im about to begin install of my murf stage 1 however i have a leak at the passenger side pressure inlet to the oil cooler on my stock radiator and would like to replace with a C&R radiator from 928 motorsports....but need to know if the SC will still install.....i dont have an intercooler....anyone SC'd who has something other than stock radiator? The C&R is apparently a quarter inch thicker.
Thanks

Fabio421

Jetrainor, The non stock radiator shouldn't interfere with the S/C install but shouldn't be the deciding factor. I too used to long for a fancy shmancy all aluminum radiator. Then I found out that there are fitment issues as well as longevity issues. A new stock Behr unit should last you 10 years or more so why do we need an alternative? Roger sells new ones with two coolers for $799 last I checked. Thats a great price considering it's gonna fit and is going to last like it should. Heres a thread where others shared their aluminum radiator experience. It was less than stellar. It changed my mind about them once and for all.

Lizard928

John,

We can fix that rad of yours.

jetrainor

Appreciate that link and i think youve helped me solve that issue!......Colin.....thanks and yah im sjure we could but it would be the 3rd repair on that rad that ive done.....im hoping to get down this summer for a shark tune however and will get in touch...

Shane

When was the last time you serviced the water pump. Could be like the issue I had with Helmut overheaating in traffic. Turned out the impellar was loose on the shaft, it still pumped from the friction but not enough in traffic, did the tb/wp and now zero overheating issues.

My boosted shark never overheated though, not even with a bad headgasket.

Cosmo Kramer

That first pic was early in my install and the filter was in the location that FAST said to put it. I just used it to show what the intake looked like. I moved it under the passenger side headlight using the flexible tubing. I am running 6-7 psi and my filter and flex pipe are 3.5". The stock Vortech intake is about the equivalent to a 3.5" pipe "flattened down". When I had my smaller SC pulley on a couple of years ago I saw 8-9 psi so it flows enough for our systems.

I just went out and took a coupe more pics and some measurements. I have room for the 12" on the one side and a pair of 8" on the other side.

soupcan

Great website find, thanks.

Tampa 928s

That cobra-head looks like it might fit, I am going to order one. I may have to tilt my radiator a little but have some idea's on the whole intake design in general.
My water pump is new this is an air flow issue at idle with the air on I cannot dissipate enough heat. Remember I live in Florida its not just the heat its the humidity.

Tampa 928s

Thanks for the link on this!
I am going to order this it will be a tight fit but I plan to tilt the radiator forward for clearance.
A: 4"
B: 4
D: 6.44
D: 2.69
E: 6
F: 8.69
G: 4.94
T: 0.25

Zeus and I have been conspiring to re engineer the whole intake design!

Cosmo Kramer

None of those cobra elbows will fit V2 or V3 superchargers. We have a 3.5" inlet and those head elbows are all 3", 4" and 5".

Tampa: The stock Murf fans look like 8" based on your photo. Maybe you can utilize the stock airbox and upgrade the set of four fans to something with a really high CFM? Most 8" that I see move about 400 cfm, but Zirgo has an 8" that moves 605 cfm. That could increase airflow through your rad by 50%.

Tampa 928s

I know the S/C is but I can make a sleeve to make this work. The only problem is the depth I need to find out how much I can remove from the elbow to make it fit, 1" is what I need to get rid of.
If anyone has a better idea or elbow option please chime in!!!

I don't want to jump ahead but I would like to move my Maf to the S/C inlet and fab some type of top air filter like 928 motorsports offers. I have an E-mail into him now to see if he would sell just that piece as an option.
I lost boost when I relocated the Maf last time but in hindsight it was not the placement causing this. When I did move the Maf under the fender the car ran great, no surging smooth transition and just ran better. Every manufacture always placed the Maf on the intake not on the boosted air stream.

Cosmo Kramer

Adding a 1/4" sleeve plus the thickness of the rubber and clamp will make things tight around the output side of the scroll. Also removing 1" (bringing the back wall of the elbow closer to the impeller) and that elbow being rubber I would be worried of it deforming and restricting flow under boost due to the extreme negative pressure. Mine is made of hard plastic to it has a bit more structure to it. If you wanted to replace the airbox you have, I would suggest getting the Vortech one like mine and making the necessary mods to make it work.

I guess I am one of the lucky ones, other then the extreme high rpm power and whistle under the hood, my car drives just like the stock, absolutely no surging at any rpm/throttle opening or at the transition from vacuum to boost. I just run hot like you at idle or slow speed with the AC running on a warm day, but I attribute that to my lackluster puller fan.

jthwan22

I have 4 little puller fan behind the rad like yours and one big pusher fan in front of it.