Pfc. Parts

Never mind about the vibration damper comment, I figured it out. "wiggle it off" says John. I'll be wiggling ASAP

Podguy

Ok here is how I do and I have never crashed the valves. It helps to have a second person. I set the crank to the safe 45 degree spot. When the crank is in the 45 degree position you can turn the cams all you want. I turn the cams to the TDC and then back them off clock wise until there is no spring tension.

Thread the belt on and have the second person hold it tight on the left side of the damper. Crank the damper to TDC. Pull the belt tight to the cam pulley. With a box wrench rotate the left cam to TDC and slip the belt onto the pully. Pull the belt forward and do same thing on the right cam.

At this point the cams and crank are at TDC and the engine can be turned safely. Tighten the tensioner to the right amount. The position of the lock nut can used to determine the right position on the bolt on the tensioner. You do not have to have the setting absolutely perfect as you are just stretching the belt.

Turn the engine over a half dozen times making note of any tracking problems with the belt. The bushing in the tension are are a must to replace. Otherwise the belt will walk forward and rub against the damper and fail in a few thousand miles.

You may be off one tooth on the right side. The left side usually comes out right on. If there is one tooth off on the right loosen the tension on the belt. Have someone hold the right cam with a box wrench. Slide off the belt - adjust the pulley the one tooth and slide the belt back on. It will slide eaasier now that it has been stretched.

Set the tension and turn the engine over a few dozen times to make sure things are tracking right. I find removing the spark plugs help.

The damper should just slide off by hand using a hand pulling on one side and then the other. A plastic hammer can help or in the worst case you can use a couple of pry bars and work the damper off. When installing use some never seize and use some sand paper to smooth up the crank and inside the damper.

Hope this help. I have put the belt on a number of times alone but a second set of hands is helpful.

Pfc. Parts

Dan, thanks a lot for writing this up and confirming the plan. It's really helpful to know someone else has done this and it works.

Best Regards,
Scott.

Pfc. Parts

Aside from my thanks to Dan, Roger & PorKen, I just wanted to thank everyone else who's taken the time to follow my adventure and offer advice and moral support. This is a great site and I'm very glad I decided to join it. I hope to be able to contribute soon and plan to read the discussion list and "pay it forward" as often as possible.

Right now I'm waiting on the delivery of an 8" gear puller so I can get the darned vibration damper off (which is predictably frozen to the crankshaft) and a 27mm socket (1/2 inch drive) so I can re-torque the crank bolt when I put this beast back together. I have a 3/4 drive 27mm but I don't have a 3/4 drive torque wrench. So many tools to buy. so little time...

Best regards to all of you. I'll post an update when this project is complete, or I'll scream for help again if it isn't clear sailing from here on out. I anticipate good weather.

Best Regards,
Scott.

Pfc. Parts

And Frank. I forgot Frank. Thanks Frank!

Pfc. Parts

Sean, I'm convinced. If I ever get an answer from Roger at 928's R Us I fully intend to buy the tools to do this right.

Regards,
Scott.

dcrasta

Be extremely careful using a puller on that damper. The pulley will come off if you kroil it (or pb blaster) and hit it with a mallet a few times. Then wiggle wiggle wiggle.. (it literally took me 3 hours). If you use a puller you have a chance of bending the pulley section (Which can seperate from the dampner) . Just use your hands and wiggle, its a tight fit but it should come off.

WHen you reinstall use a smear of anti-seize to keep it from 'freezing' on .

WICruiser

I agree with dcrasta - the damper may appear to be frozen but with some time (well maybe more) and some dillegence it will probably come off. Pullers are wonderful things but they also allow you to bend things that you really do not want bent. At first it will feel like it is not moving at all, then you get the impression it may have moved but you can't be sure, then it seems like your sure it moved but why isn't it moving more, then finally it almost falls off and you wonder what the heck was fighting you the whole time.

eohrnberger

Sorry for coming late to the party. Hoping that someone may have some experience on this to help me out and answer my question.

I saw the Porken's timing setup kit being used on a 928 motor at an technical event as part of a demonstration.

While I don't have a 928, I have a 944 S2, which is basically 1/2 of a 928 engine with the same twin overhead cam design.

I remember the last time we had to time the cams to the engine, dial gauges all over the place, and a real PITA.

Would this kit work for my engine?