Wire repair: here's how I do it.
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Wire repair: here's how I do it.
I made up a short tutorial on how to do wire repair (the Navy way). I saw someone had posted photos of repairing wires with solder and electrical tape, and I became concerned. This repair type is extremely durable, is easy and works great. Plus you don't require power to run a soldering iron. I'm sure most of you already do it this way, but obviously there are some that do not, ......and they should.
Notice the last photo: I made another crimp to show how both ends are crimped independently. I cut back the insulation too far on that one. You don't want conductor showing on the outside of the crimp.
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure no conductor is showing on the outsides of the crimp. Butting the insulation up against the barrel will greatly enhance rigidity, thus increasing the life of the repair. Having conductor exposed on the outsides of the crimp makes the repair very flexible which introduces a "weak link" in the circuit.
One more tip: if you want to use this style of heat-shrink, remember that one end is wider than the other, so put the heat-shrink on the wire before doing the repair, and ensure the wider end is facing the repair so that you can slide it over the splice/crimp. Otherwise you'll have to cut the repair and do it all over again.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-how-i-do.html
Notice the last photo: I made another crimp to show how both ends are crimped independently. I cut back the insulation too far on that one. You don't want conductor showing on the outside of the crimp.
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure no conductor is showing on the outsides of the crimp. Butting the insulation up against the barrel will greatly enhance rigidity, thus increasing the life of the repair. Having conductor exposed on the outsides of the crimp makes the repair very flexible which introduces a "weak link" in the circuit.
One more tip: if you want to use this style of heat-shrink, remember that one end is wider than the other, so put the heat-shrink on the wire before doing the repair, and ensure the wider end is facing the repair so that you can slide it over the splice/crimp. Otherwise you'll have to cut the repair and do it all over again.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-how-i-do.html
Last edited by Maleficio; 09-01-2011 at 08:11 PM.
#2
Nordschleife Master
Yep... that's how it's done.
Just removed an outside alarm causing a Gremlin. The cretins used those f-n Scotch things thus basically sacrificing my wires. I had lots of wire repair.
Just removed an outside alarm causing a Gremlin. The cretins used those f-n Scotch things thus basically sacrificing my wires. I had lots of wire repair.
#3
Three Wheelin'
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I do the same thing with solder. Instead of crimping I fill the connector with solder and then slide shrink tube over the joint using a heat gun to shrink the tubing. If too much heat is applied to a shrink tube it will get brittle or even split. I have seen too many crimps especially on braided wire. The worst thing that can be done is to use electrical tape. Over time the tape will dry out and fall off. When I have had to use electrical tape I apply some heat like shrink tube to seal it.
#7
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I buy out the non-insulated crimp connectors at my local radio shack every 6 or 8 months. You can get the shrink there, or in big rolls from fastenal. I assume you could get the connectors there too but I never seem to run out of both at the same time so I never bothered. Also, there's an awesome $5 heat gun at harbor freight I use instead of open flame.
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#8
Burning Brakes
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To many years in commercial aviation to mention, however the few Air force jets (Heavy) I worked on where where crimped except for the Generals his repairs where soldered only, Donald Trumps jet was of course gold connectors however still believe that the solder ensures the best connection bar none but cars do not fly so the down side is not catastrophic. They make cordless butane soldering iron now days also.
#10
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Why you posting these DIYs over on Penguin?
Post 'em here then they can be added to the 928 DIY forum.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-134/?pp=40&daysprune=-1
You payin' attention, Hacker?
I use these butt splices with built-in shrink wrapping on the ends - but always use a heat gun, not a lighter -
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...splayErrorView
Available at most marine supply stores.
Post 'em here then they can be added to the 928 DIY forum.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-134/?pp=40&daysprune=-1
You payin' attention, Hacker?
I use these butt splices with built-in shrink wrapping on the ends - but always use a heat gun, not a lighter -
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...splayErrorView
Available at most marine supply stores.
#11
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#12
Three Wheelin'
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Here's the tool. You can get the crimps and sleeves at most any parts house, though they may not be mil-spec.
http://www.dmctools.com/store/catalo...o2.x=0&Go2.y=0
#13
Nordschleife Master
To many years in commercial aviation to mention, however the few Air force jets (Heavy) I worked on where where crimped except for the Generals his repairs where soldered only, Donald Trumps jet was of course gold connectors however still believe that the solder ensures the best connection bar none but cars do not fly so the down side is not catastrophic. They make cordless butane soldering iron now days also.
I crimp power, and solder signal wires, except for the ones I crimp or weld.
#15
The problem with soldering is that (IME) if the wire is not nice and clean, solder tends to not "stick" so well. In those cases, I'd crimp like in this thread, otherwise, solder is my way of choice.