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Duc's Hybrid build

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Old 07-09-2011, 09:05 PM
  #31  
LT Texan
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Originally Posted by Podguy
Why do you say the older pan is better. I am interested because I am refreshing a 78 motor and it was suggested I upgrade to the newer system.

Thanks
Old style baffling is better imo
Old 07-09-2011, 09:38 PM
  #32  
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everything i have seen is, OB pans are better.
Old 07-14-2011, 11:43 AM
  #33  
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I have a question for the engine builders out there. not that i have a pretty clean block, im going to start by rebuilding the oil pump and installing it. whats the best way to clean the oil passages before i slap that baby on the block?
Old 07-15-2011, 07:09 AM
  #34  
Podguy
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They should be fairly clean - compressed air is good.
Old 08-10-2011, 12:05 AM
  #35  
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Thanks to Mike down at Engine builders in Cali, i got my pistons cut for the euro heads!!! getting closer!!!
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Old 08-10-2011, 02:19 AM
  #36  
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remember, i have never used the old style pan, and have had no issues at all at any level.
there is something to be said for the restriction not being that great for oil recovery, with the old style. I made Petty's motor with the old style, because I dont think its a huge isssue, plus, the baffle chambers are substantial in the OB pan. however based on what Ive seen over 12 years of full racing seasons, the new oil pickup system is just fine.
Old 08-10-2011, 02:25 AM
  #37  
mark kibort
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make sure you bolt on the bare heads, and depress each valve with clay on the valve reliefs to make sure there is no contact at the edge of the valve cuts. I show how to do this in my petty build thread.
it requires a box wrench, and use one of the cam tower bolts with a 1"diameter washer. lever the valve down by the valve end . should move down about .3".

how deep were the valve cuts? i usually use the euro 85 depth, of .175"
Old 08-10-2011, 10:25 AM
  #38  
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ill go out and check today on the depth. I sent the pistons to the shop GB uses to cut hybrid pistons. they even built a special jig for it.
Old 08-10-2011, 12:35 PM
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That looks nice and clean.
Old 08-10-2011, 12:40 PM
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now all i need is rings. im still debating on getting the skirts and top coated...
Old 08-10-2011, 01:05 PM
  #41  
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they might be better at the modeling, as my experience for 4 sets ive done, they all were off a little. (basing the design of their jig on just an example 80euro piston). again, its an easy test, two nuts on the heads , and depress a valve on a piston that is at TDC. (using some clay or clay).
the problem is transfering the position to a 100mm piston vs the 97mm piston.

anyway, checik it out and let us know!

Originally Posted by Ducman82
ill go out and check today on the depth. I sent the pistons to the shop GB uses to cut hybrid pistons. they even built a special jig for it.
Old 08-10-2011, 01:06 PM
  #42  
mark kibort
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yes, do rings, and forget about the coating.

Originally Posted by Ducman82
now all i need is rings. im still debating on getting the skirts and top coated...
Old 08-10-2011, 01:21 PM
  #43  
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thats what im thinking today. plus i need to get some tig welding stuff. so that will save me a few bucks.
Old 08-10-2011, 08:21 PM
  #44  
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The pistons are already coated with that ferro stuff aren't they?

Replacing the original coating or putting something over it doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Old 08-10-2011, 09:36 PM
  #45  
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after you get new rings and bearings and put it together! then, you can do this test.


Originally Posted by Ducman82
ill go out and check today on the depth. I sent the pistons to the shop GB uses to cut hybrid pistons. they even built a special jig for it.


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