Any experience with "sticking piston rings" on dormant engine?
03-05-2011, 11:30 PM
#136
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
dino= Mystic oil from O'reillys- I read that since the cylinder walls are not fresh, proper ring seating won't really happen (928 motorsports web site on engine break in)
03-05-2011, 11:38 PM
#137
Three Wheelin'
Doesn't matter if the cylinders are not fresh, you need non synthetic for the rings to seal. If the rings don't seal from using synthetic you may risk oil burning issues and lose some HP. I would use "Torco 10W40 break in oil" to clean the synthetic stuff out and help in sealing the rings (use it for 80-100 miles). And then for good measures use Torco 20W50 TR-1 racing oil (helps in ring sealing) for the next 4-5000 miles.
03-05-2011, 11:43 PM
#139
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Doesn't matter if the cylinders are not fresh, you need non synthetic for the rings to seal. If the rings don't seal from using synthetic you may risk oil burning issues and lose some HP. I would use "Torco 10W40 break in oil" to clean the synthetic stuff out and help in sealing the rings (use it for 80-100 miles). And then for good measures use Torco 20W50 TR-1 racing oil (helps in ring sealing) for the next 4-5000 miles.
03-05-2011, 11:48 PM
#140
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It's not too drivable now-way out of tune and I really don't know what to do. I think only 3 things can be adjusted.
1st the timing then the idle and mixture. Need the gauges for the mixture. I am thinking about taking it to the local Porsche mechanic for the final tune.
1st the timing then the idle and mixture. Need the gauges for the mixture. I am thinking about taking it to the local Porsche mechanic for the final tune.
03-05-2011, 11:51 PM
#141
Rennlist Member
You will need to have the high ZDDP content oil in this car, regardless.
Did you try moving the distributor (timing) by hand to get the car to smooth out?
(stop the car before the moves, you don't need to get shocked)
Its not uncommon to iterate to the timing setting that works.
CIS mixture --- I don't know --- seems like something you would want to figure out though.
The fact that you could shift up/down --- that has to be a huge positive outcome. Very important at this stage to know it works. That, alone, was as important as it running.
Did you try moving the distributor (timing) by hand to get the car to smooth out?
(stop the car before the moves, you don't need to get shocked)
Its not uncommon to iterate to the timing setting that works.
CIS mixture --- I don't know --- seems like something you would want to figure out though.
The fact that you could shift up/down --- that has to be a huge positive outcome. Very important at this stage to know it works. That, alone, was as important as it running.
03-05-2011, 11:57 PM
#142
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
here is the data sheet on the oil- I think it's what you said I need. I tried moving the distrib with my wife in the car but can't tell much. I have a timing light I can use to set it correctly tomorrow then I'll go from there. Is the big screw on the front of the throttle body the only way to increase the idle or should I mess with the cable?http://www.newlifeparts.com/newlife/...t815w50shd.pdf
03-06-2011, 12:09 AM
#143
Rennlist Member
This has been hashed-out in those oil selection arguement threads here that I usually avoid.
What you want is ZDDP at least 1000 ppm. Most oils have been stripped of most of it, you need to find one that hasn't.
What you want is ZDDP at least 1000 ppm. Most oils have been stripped of most of it, you need to find one that hasn't.
03-06-2011, 11:14 PM
#144
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Drove it to gas it up with 93 octane. No power under load, stumbles and dies when I let off the gas. I set the timing and pulled a plug that showed too rich so I'm going to back the mixture up a bit. Engine bay is bone dry except for maybe some coolant getting out of the reservoir. The gas tank is leaking a bit since I filled it up. Still need to get it in tune. It felt pretty solid as far as suspension-Kinda like a 30 year old sports car. The steering rack reseal I did is holding up also and the steering feels proper.
03-07-2011, 12:59 AM
#146
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
03-07-2011, 01:24 AM
#147
Team Owner
dont bother checking the compression it has enough to run,
a valid compression test wont be available till you have run it for a few hours under load.
Get the fuel system figured out,
and dont park it in any buildings with the leaking fuel tank,
its one thing to burn the car and a whole other thing to take the house with it
a valid compression test wont be available till you have run it for a few hours under load.
Get the fuel system figured out,
and dont park it in any buildings with the leaking fuel tank,
its one thing to burn the car and a whole other thing to take the house with it
