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Repainted valve cover
New rubber thanks Roger
Oil galley pins updated " "
Wear pad on chain tensioner " "
Fresh 527 (ouch $$$)
The ZXN (12 point) bolts were batting .500. 3 stripped, 3 acquiesced. I used a 12mm socket hammered gently over the stripped bolts and was able to undo them. Great tip found with search and of course Dwayne's intake piece which included the valve covers.
Put crossmember in position after motor mounts job. Mount brackets are loosely bolted in so need to slide upper support bolts in today and put everything back
Screwed up my courage and began the timing belt/water pump procedure. Got as far as getting the hoses off. Hoses look original, but seem OK. I'd be nuts to reinstall them, right?
Curt,
If they look original, I would for sure. And if those look original, the rest of the rubber probably is. Might have some vacuum issues at hand or around the corner. Sometimes we replace stuff when we don't have to, but these northern winters are not friendly to those bits; they will eventually go off.
[Only other guy here that I know here that has a Prius and Porsche]
I removed a couple of wheels on my new car, and was surprised to find aluminum alloy lug nuts. These were standard issue? I'd better be careful about the torquing procedure - any lubricant recommendations?
Lots of cleaning. Pulled everything out to fix loose rivets in the flex plate. Everything else looks great, going to put some rear rotors on as they have quite lip and too thin. All TC and TT stuff and trans lines already done by Greg a few years ago.
Sending the flex plate to Greg so he can do the repair using his method. I am not messing with it.
FYI, I could not "feel" the loose rivets but upon shaking the flex plate while it was attached to the TC housing you could hear it rattle.
I thought maybe the heater valve was stuck closed so I replaced it and that didn't fix the problem. Started fiddling inside after looking at a parts fiche and found one of the plastic arms that connects to the electric motor to mix the hot and cold air was broken. Someone tightened a metal rod on the mechanism too tight causing it to bind and break itself. Used a little superglue to fix the broken arm since everything was still there and voilà, hot air.
The temperature control seemed to be working fine when I tested it, but the next day it would only work on the defrost setting. Going to wait and see if maybe this is an intermittent problem.
Got the GTS back on the road. Refitted fans, belly pans etc after installing rebuilt tensioner last weekend. Removed original 118k mile cats, fitted X-Pipe and RMB.
Completed the afternoon with an Italian tune up on a nice sunny afternoon.
I removed a couple of wheels on my new car, and was surprised to find aluminum alloy lug nuts. These were standard issue? I'd better be careful about the torquing procedure - any lubricant recommendations?
Started fitting Greg Brown fuel lines, 928 Motorsports front wiring harness and fuel dampers from 928s r us. My wife thinks I am helping the US economy too much. Waiting for my 928 International radiator and my watch from Shawn!
09-09-2014, 02:41 AM
