4drgl

Nice project! Mine recently looked like that! Everywhere I went under the hood there was grease!! I rolled mine out in the driveway and went after the bay with bio degradeable degreaser stripping all the big clunks and mess out of the bay... there's a lot of nooks and crannies in the bay! Worst spot is right where the engine brace mounts to the chassis and there's a v and it's full of gunk...

I also hand scrubbed all my parts with degreaser... didn't have access to a blaster that was anywhere near affordable!!

Looking forward to your updates!

Mike LaBranche

You know you may spend too much time underneath a 928 when all those parts look not only familiar, but as cool as the batch you have laying around on your own garage floor... I see BWAAAHHHH potential in every part... fresh rubber, fresh fasteners, fresh consumables, and you've got a real animal. Have fun.

GregBBRD

I should have just bit the bullet and done the gearbox (I never got to drive the car...the engine was toast), but the car only had 70,000 miles on it and I hoped (against all odds) that the syncros would be good. 1st and 2nd grind, a bit, if you are not uber careful.

I'm working on a couple of trick gearbox "modifications" anyway...so I'll rebuild my son's box (with the modifications), when he is home for Christmas.

Stay tuned...and yell if you have any questions.

BigAl1

Got almost all my parts ready to blast clean - just the steering rack mount crossmember, and swaybar mounts to get off the car. The test blasting on the old aluminum ball joint left a surface a little rougher than fresh castings, but I'll clearcoat these parts so they don't hold dirt so well. All steel parts will be black powdercoat.
Erik pointed out the intake runners don't look like Euro S, so I found two numbers on them (928.110.288.2R, or 928.110.284.2R) - apparently not "S" runners. But, verified the heads as 928.104.348.2R, and the block as AIR M28\12. Also measured the throttle body as ~4"OD, so assuming about 3.5"ID - apparently Euro S. I'm now convinced somebody changed the runners from Euro S to non "S" versions - crazy POs!!!

BigAl1

Slow progress - but still moving forward! Parts are arriving, cleaning is happening, and reassembly starts soon. All rear suspension parts blasted clean, and all the aluminum parts clearcoated to try keeping them looking nice. The steel parts will be painted black, then all new rubber bushings installed. Had a 21mm rear swaybar, so ordered a 22mm from Mark (Benton) and will use poly bushings for both front and back swaybars. All the rear underside hardware is plated for that nice "detailed" look. New bearings for the TC input shaft, plus new seal and the main pump O-ring, and pan seal with filter kit. The trans felt ok for the few miles I drove it, so will put it back in with hopefully the leaks fixed. New wheel bearings, new CV boots, new pads and rebuild kits for calipers, new braided SS brake hoses. Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have parts going back into the car - it always goes slower than I hope for (side effect of having a job I guess!).

BC

Powder coat! Powder coat!

Ad0911

Hi BigAl,
Your project looks very similar to mine. Did you replace the rubber bushings in the trailing arms? I was reluctant to take the old ones out because I didn't know if I could ever put the new ones in. What kind of equipment did you use to replace them? Hydraulic press?

kccampro

Where'd you source those rear bushings from? I might have to order myself the same parts you did. Thanks.

BigAl1

Powdercoat is a definate possibility! All the rubber bushings I sourced from Auto Atlanta. I will use a 20Ton press and make some special support/press sleeves that are fitted to the parts so I don't mess up the operation and ruin a control arm. Note - the front pivot on the lower rear control arm has a rubber bushing inside the steel tube of the arm - I am not replacing that one.

BC

There is very little reason to. Just remove it and blast the front metal part.

BigAl1

Lower control arms blasted already, and leaving the rubber parts in during blast is not a problem. Just be sure to get all the grit out afterwards. I will have to remove it to powdercoat though, as the 425F bake temp for our paint is too much for rubber - it fails the smoke test!

BigAl1

Finally making some small progress on the car with these holidays. Got all the suspension and steel parts cleaned and painted, along with small detail parts like engine support and motor mount brackets. I'm changing to the newer Volvo mounts from Roger so sourced a newer front crossmember from Mark Benton, plus the brackets.
My first group of plated hardware is sorted, and some are back onto the transmission holding the torque convertor housing on. This is a big step for me - actually assembling something! The front housing was blasted clean then clearcoated, while the rest of the trans was cleaned with a brush and elbow grease, so unfortunately the colors don't match, but at least they are clean.
I'm working on prepping the rear wheel wells to be painted Tahoe Blue (37C), so hopefully while we have a heatwave (+2C today - yayy!) I can do some painting the next couple days. The car will be changed to Tahoe Blue, so detailing wheel wells and engine bay while all the parts are out. More updates to come....

pcar928fan

WOW! This is going to be SOOOO NICE!!!

BigAl1

No assembly progress yesterday or today, but finally worked up the courage to go for it on a cleaning front! Decided to remove all the fuel, trans, brake lines and battery cable to make cleaning the underside easier. Also need to convert some spots on the fuel lines to AN6, so will do that with the lines out - makes things much easier. Will also do the AC small hose fix that Greg B recommends with the soldered on fitting. All the AC and coolant lines are out too, on the way to completely cleaning and painting the engine bay along with the wheel wells.
To make cleaning easier, I've decided to go the hard way and remove the front fenders and nose cone. Got the nose off tonight, and see that it will have to be replaced when the bodywork is done. There was some damage in the past, that was sloppily repaired. Once all the cleaning and painting is done, fixing the brake line rats-nest is on the to-do list.

Podguy

Erik,

The engine is an S. look at the location and position of the WUR. That is the tip off.