Replace Head Studs?
#61
Rennlist Member
It'd be interesting to hear what suppliers experience in volumes sold. I'd be inclined to replace if the head had been off once before, but I'd be thinking the studs/bolts must be a bit too close to the limit if they won't take one re-use on a standard motor.
#62
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Although everyone seems to be attracted to the uber low mileage vehicles, most of the ones I've seen have head gasket issues (even late model GTS vehicles). Seems that most cars that sat/had little use also didn't get their coolant changed. The coolant turned acidic after a couple of years and just sat there and "ate" at the gaskets/hardware/aluminum. Many years ago, I actually had an early car that literally "ate" the cylinder liners and the heads away. Had to find another engine...it was junk.
I did a pre-purchase on a fairly nice, low mileage early car, a week or so ago. It had leaking head gaskets...all the way around. Tough to tell both the current owner and the potential buyer that this can be a real bag of worms...they just don't understand the extent of the problem.
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greg brown
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Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
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greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#63
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What I am getting out of all this is replace them, whether they are bolts or studs, with either stock parts or Simard's parts. If stock bolts or studs then torque 20nm followed by 3 series of 90 degree turns, seems to be the proper way of doing this. I'm sure Simard has his own way of using his studs.
Correct?
Trying to bring all of this together in an unconfusing manor. Thanks guys!
Correct?
Trying to bring all of this together in an unconfusing manor. Thanks guys!
Bolts get torqued to 20nm followed by 2 series of 90 degrees.
#64
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I have been saying this all along, a low mileage garage queen is not "Just like a new car" what in reality it is, is a old car that has not been driven.
Of course the "Experts" here have told me that I do not have a clue.
Thank you for stating that FACT.
Of course the "Experts" here have told me that I do not have a clue.
Thank you for stating that FACT.
The '83 that I'm having problems with is an absolute "virgin" with just over 100,000 miles. Never had the heads touched.
Although everyone seems to be attracted to the uber low mileage vehicles, most of the ones I've seen have head gasket issues (even late model GTS vehicles). Seems that most cars that sat/had little use also didn't get their coolant changed. The coolant turned acidic after a couple of years and just sat there and "ate" at the gaskets/hardware/aluminum. Many years ago, I actually had an early car that literally "ate" the cylinder liners and the heads away. Had to find another engine...it was junk.
I did a pre-purchase on a fairly nice, low mileage early car, a week or so ago. It had leaking head gaskets...all the way around. Tough to tell both the current owner and the potential buyer that this can be a real bag of worms...they just don't understand the extent of the problem.
Although everyone seems to be attracted to the uber low mileage vehicles, most of the ones I've seen have head gasket issues (even late model GTS vehicles). Seems that most cars that sat/had little use also didn't get their coolant changed. The coolant turned acidic after a couple of years and just sat there and "ate" at the gaskets/hardware/aluminum. Many years ago, I actually had an early car that literally "ate" the cylinder liners and the heads away. Had to find another engine...it was junk.
I did a pre-purchase on a fairly nice, low mileage early car, a week or so ago. It had leaking head gaskets...all the way around. Tough to tell both the current owner and the potential buyer that this can be a real bag of worms...they just don't understand the extent of the problem.
#65
Rennlist Member
This is a very interesting thread coming just at the right time because I am just about to reinstall the heads on my '78 4.5L. I couldn't find this in the WSM but perhaps I overlooked it. Some of the studs on my engine were a bit rusty up to the point that the heads were hard to remove from the studs. I understand that replacing all the studs is needed. Before I make an attempt to remove them, can anyone give me a hint on possible problems I may encounter while removing the studs? Or can I just screw them out without fuss?
#66
Rennlist Member
This is a very interesting thread coming just at the right time because I am just about to reinstall the heads on my '78 4.5L. I couldn't find this in the WSM but perhaps I overlooked it. Some of the studs on my engine were a bit rusty up to the point that the heads were hard to remove from the studs. I understand that replacing all the studs is needed. Before I make an attempt to remove them, can anyone give me a hint on possible problems I may encounter while removing the studs? Or can I just screw them out without fuss?
#67
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The '83 that I'm having problems with is an absolute "virgin" with just over 100,000 miles. Never had the heads touched.
Although everyone seems to be attracted to the uber low mileage vehicles, most of the ones I've seen have head gasket issues (even late model GTS vehicles). Seems that most cars that sat/had little use also didn't get their coolant changed. The coolant turned acidic after a couple of years and just sat there and "ate" at the gaskets/hardware/aluminum. Many years ago, I actually had an early car that literally "ate" the cylinder liners and the heads away. Had to find another engine...it was junk.
I did a pre-purchase on a fairly nice, low mileage early car, a week or so ago. It had leaking head gaskets...all the way around. Tough to tell both the current owner and the potential buyer that this can be a real bag of worms...they just don't understand the extent of the problem.
Although everyone seems to be attracted to the uber low mileage vehicles, most of the ones I've seen have head gasket issues (even late model GTS vehicles). Seems that most cars that sat/had little use also didn't get their coolant changed. The coolant turned acidic after a couple of years and just sat there and "ate" at the gaskets/hardware/aluminum. Many years ago, I actually had an early car that literally "ate" the cylinder liners and the heads away. Had to find another engine...it was junk.
I did a pre-purchase on a fairly nice, low mileage early car, a week or so ago. It had leaking head gaskets...all the way around. Tough to tell both the current owner and the potential buyer that this can be a real bag of worms...they just don't understand the extent of the problem.
#68
Rennlist Member
Toque spec for installing the Studs in the Block on an ’85 / 86 32 valve ?
The only thing I could find in thw WSM is the 15lb and three 90 method, same as heads except the heads said 4 step.
Thanks,
Dave
The only thing I could find in thw WSM is the 15lb and three 90 method, same as heads except the heads said 4 step.
Thanks,
Dave
#69
Three Wheelin'
If you are replacing them, consider using a flat tip on an air chisel near the base of the stud- object is to
"rattle" it - Not break it off. Helps to break up corrosion so your penetrating oil can get down to the threads. Be very careful- you are not trying to visably move the stud
"rattle" it - Not break it off. Helps to break up corrosion so your penetrating oil can get down to the threads. Be very careful- you are not trying to visably move the stud
#70
Rennlist Member
Thanks Jim you tip is for removing them correct?
I was wondering if I was going to replace them how do I know when to stop tighting them into the Block?
Is there a Torque Spec for the studs or is it the same method as the Heads ?
Thanks!
I was wondering if I was going to replace them how do I know when to stop tighting them into the Block?
Is there a Torque Spec for the studs or is it the same method as the Heads ?
Thanks!
#71
Three Wheelin'
Yes it's to help break up any corrosion that may be around the threads so that your penetrating oils can get down to the threads to get them out. Be very careful- don't hit anything important (block etc)
don't use real high air pressure on the air chisel just a short burst. A tech from the Jaguar dealer showed me this- They used to do this to get heads off that were stuck(corroded) to the head studs by using an old head nut to "rattle" against. Once the corrosion was broken up, they could get penetrating oil down the studs & eventually get the heads off.
Above all, use finesse, not brute force- go slow.
don't use real high air pressure on the air chisel just a short burst. A tech from the Jaguar dealer showed me this- They used to do this to get heads off that were stuck(corroded) to the head studs by using an old head nut to "rattle" against. Once the corrosion was broken up, they could get penetrating oil down the studs & eventually get the heads off.
Above all, use finesse, not brute force- go slow.
#72
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This is a very interesting thread coming just at the right time because I am just about to reinstall the heads on my '78 4.5L. I couldn't find this in the WSM but perhaps I overlooked it. Some of the studs on my engine were a bit rusty up to the point that the heads were hard to remove from the studs. I understand that replacing all the studs is needed. Before I make an attempt to remove them, can anyone give me a hint on possible problems I may encounter while removing the studs? Or can I just screw them out without fuss?
We used a thread chaser (not a tap) to clean the threads and then Loctited the new studs (at the same original heights) into the block with "Red" Loctite.
#73
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I'd rather have one that has more miles on it that has been driven...and serviced...instead of sitting...but that is just me.
#74
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#75
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Green like stud and bearing mount?
You will have to have heat to get that out, no doubt about that.
Good to know.
You will have to have heat to get that out, no doubt about that.
Good to know.
Porsche used "Green" Loctite on them. No amount of "PB Blaster"...or any other spray is going to help. We used a torch and heated the aluminum where the stud is inserted into the block until the Loctite "smoked" a bit and they came right out. This can be done by inserting the torch tip down into the "water jacket" area and heating that area while moving the tip around.
We used a thread chaser (not a tap) to clean the threads and then Loctited the new studs (at the same original heights) into the block with "Red" Loctite.
We used a thread chaser (not a tap) to clean the threads and then Loctited the new studs (at the same original heights) into the block with "Red" Loctite.