Dave928S

It'd be interesting to hear what suppliers experience in volumes sold. I'd be inclined to replace if the head had been off once before, but I'd be thinking the studs/bolts must be a bit too close to the limit if they won't take one re-use on a standard motor.

GregBBRD

The '83 that I'm having problems with is an absolute "virgin" with just over 100,000 miles. Never had the heads touched.

Although everyone seems to be attracted to the uber low mileage vehicles, most of the ones I've seen have head gasket issues (even late model GTS vehicles). Seems that most cars that sat/had little use also didn't get their coolant changed. The coolant turned acidic after a couple of years and just sat there and "ate" at the gaskets/hardware/aluminum. Many years ago, I actually had an early car that literally "ate" the cylinder liners and the heads away. Had to find another engine...it was junk.

I did a pre-purchase on a fairly nice, low mileage early car, a week or so ago. It had leaking head gaskets...all the way around. Tough to tell both the current owner and the potential buyer that this can be a real bag of worms...they just don't understand the extent of the problem.

GregBBRD

No. Only studs get torqued to that specification.

Bolts get torqued to 20nm followed by 2 series of 90 degrees.

blown 87

I have been saying this all along, a low mileage garage queen is not "Just like a new car" what in reality it is, is a old car that has not been driven.

Of course the "Experts" here have told me that I do not have a clue.

Thank you for stating that FACT.

Ad0911

This is a very interesting thread coming just at the right time because I am just about to reinstall the heads on my '78 4.5L. I couldn't find this in the WSM but perhaps I overlooked it. Some of the studs on my engine were a bit rusty up to the point that the heads were hard to remove from the studs. I understand that replacing all the studs is needed. Before I make an attempt to remove them, can anyone give me a hint on possible problems I may encounter while removing the studs? Or can I just screw them out without fuss?

gbgastowers

get the stud extractor from sears($23).Works great after soaking stud bottoms in pb blaster. use the extractor with a 1/2 inch socket cheater bar and place extractor down by the block after cleaning oil of stud shaft.

AO

That's what happened to my GT. Some PO probably never changed the coolant and maybe used the wrong coolant. When I pulled the heads, I found this... barf.

davek9

Toque spec for installing the Studs in the Block on an ’85 / 86 32 valve ?
The only thing I could find in thw WSM is the 15lb and three 90 method, same as heads except the heads said 4 step.

Thanks,

Dave

Jim Devine

If you are replacing them, consider using a flat tip on an air chisel near the base of the stud- object is to
"rattle" it - Not break it off. Helps to break up corrosion so your penetrating oil can get down to the threads. Be very careful- you are not trying to visably move the stud

davek9

Thanks Jim you tip is for removing them correct?
I was wondering if I was going to replace them how do I know when to stop tighting them into the Block?
Is there a Torque Spec for the studs or is it the same method as the Heads ?

Thanks!

Jim Devine

Yes it's to help break up any corrosion that may be around the threads so that your penetrating oils can get down to the threads to get them out. Be very careful- don't hit anything important (block etc)
don't use real high air pressure on the air chisel just a short burst. A tech from the Jaguar dealer showed me this- They used to do this to get heads off that were stuck(corroded) to the head studs by using an old head nut to "rattle" against. Once the corrosion was broken up, they could get penetrating oil down the studs & eventually get the heads off.
Above all, use finesse, not brute force- go slow.

GregBBRD

Porsche used "Green" Loctite on them. No amount of "PB Blaster"...or any other spray is going to help. We used a torch and heated the aluminum where the stud is inserted into the block until the Loctite "smoked" a bit and they came right out. This can be done by inserting the torch tip down into the "water jacket" area and heating that area while moving the tip around.

We used a thread chaser (not a tap) to clean the threads and then Loctited the new studs (at the same original heights) into the block with "Red" Loctite.

GregBBRD

I'd rather have one that has more miles on it that has been driven...and serviced...instead of sitting...but that is just me.

GregBBRD

Exactly...but I've seen that where the cylinders are almost eaten through.

blown 87

Green like stud and bearing mount?
You will have to have heat to get that out, no doubt about that.
Good to know.