Tampa 928s

85 Euro LH:
I have no contact on my WOT portion of my tps switch, off throttle works fine I get continuity. Seems like it maybe glued any advice on how to get it apart?

SeanR

You can crack the case on it, but it's easier just to replace it. Rog has them pretty cheap. Replace the wire harness also since it's crap after 20 years. Guess who has those also.

Tampa 928s

Do I need to break it open to remove it or remove the nut on the spring side and hope the hell it goes back together?

Bill Ball

Sure, it's easier to replace it, but for all you DIY'ers like me, there is a seam around the circumference. Saw along that with a hacksaw, but not all the way through to the inside. There are some tabs along this seam. Best not to saw into them but gently pry them away from the case a little with a very small flat-blade screwdriver. You will hear the glue separate. Pry along the seam gap you created with the hacksaw and the rest of the glue should gradually give up its hold. The connector will stay with the base half - don't saw that. Anyway, with a little patience the case will separate in such a way that a lip on the base inside the seam stays largely intact so it can be reassembled very securely with fresh glue. The main area that needs attention is the solder joints at the base of the WOT points arms. I just reflow them with a little more solder. Might as well do the idle switch solder joint too. I advocate this repair only because I have seen new units fail within a year or so and it appears the factory soldering of these butt joints is not the best.

Tim Murphy

What car is this off of?

If it is off the supercharged car, get a new one.

Too much risk in not having it work properly as well as causing you to chase gremlins.

Bill Ball

Once you remove the two screws from the switch's baseplate adjustment slots, the switch should slide off the throttle plate shaft. I'm not sure what you mean by "nut on the spring side".

SeanR

Here some pics. Not breaking this one open just yet. But you can see the tabs and the glue used to keep it sealed. I'm going to take a file or my small dremel along the edges to pop it open.

Tampa 928s

I got it open dremal tool, It has oil in it one I cleaned it it's working. Now do I go and replace the o-ring or seal it back up?

Tampa 928s

No murf its the Euro!

Tampa 928s

I got it back on but notice the spring tension is not strong enough to completely close the plate. If I manually move it the off switch will click, weak springs or an adjustment.

SeanR

clean and lube the spring mechanism that turns the assembly.

Tampa 928s

I have cleaned it, just very little tension sometimes it will not go to the fully closed position. Off the car it closes very little resistance but add a little pull form any of the throttle cables and it does not close consistently. This would explain some odd running issues. I'm not sure what to do at this point!

Hilton

Is there any slack adjusted into your throttle cables? If they're too tight, it might not close compeltely?

Or are the cables just binding in the sleeve? Once they're old, friction destroys the nylon lining and they take more force. You can use a motorcycle cable oiler to spray a lube down the cable, but replacement is the longer-lasting option.

Tampa 928s

I went over the cables and the Gas pedal cable was screwed all the way out. Also the rug was down on the pedal and causing an issue. I need to look into what type of spring is used on the pedal it seems it has a lot less resistance than my 86. It's working for now but seems a little too touchy for me.

Tampa 928s

Engine is back together and idles high unless I push the TB arm mechanism down then it idles ok. Not sure what went wrong I did take it apart to clean the springs and plate. We are talking a couple of MM and the low switch is clicking even with out pushing down. I guess I need to pull it out again but not sure what to look for could the springs be weak. It did idle ok before I had it apart but it moved fine an no binding.