Lost only ignition key? Don't panic.
03-04-2010, 10:43 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Lost only ignition key? Don't panic.
There is a way out.
Pull the pod, drill the pin, pull the lock, drill the front innards-retaining pin.
The ignition lock is designed with a tumbler barrier. This means, unlike the door and hatch locks, you can't just tap the innards out.
Of the 5 rows of tumblers inside the lock, the one closest to the cockpit hits the barrier.
What to do: Get a couple of 928 keys from other cars or friends. Gently work the key(s) into the lock and work it a little while pushing on the backside of the innards, with the key partially in/out. Eventually you will make the frontmost set of tumblers retract, incrementing the innards out.
Do this successively to each row of tumblers until the innards are out.
Then, you can rekey the ignition lock to match whatever derelict spare 928 key you can find. Then, you can rekey the other locks to match.
Not hard. Not necessary to buy a new ignition set.
Each long key has 7 sets of tumbler impressions, plus the intermediate positions. There are only a handful of combinations for whatever pair of tumblers is currently against the barrier. Probably can accomplish this with a single key. You do not need to depress all sets of tumblers at once in order to get the lock innards out. Only that last set, which changes as you increment.
Pull the pod, drill the pin, pull the lock, drill the front innards-retaining pin.
The ignition lock is designed with a tumbler barrier. This means, unlike the door and hatch locks, you can't just tap the innards out.
Of the 5 rows of tumblers inside the lock, the one closest to the cockpit hits the barrier.
What to do: Get a couple of 928 keys from other cars or friends. Gently work the key(s) into the lock and work it a little while pushing on the backside of the innards, with the key partially in/out. Eventually you will make the frontmost set of tumblers retract, incrementing the innards out.
Do this successively to each row of tumblers until the innards are out.
Then, you can rekey the ignition lock to match whatever derelict spare 928 key you can find. Then, you can rekey the other locks to match.
Not hard. Not necessary to buy a new ignition set.
Each long key has 7 sets of tumbler impressions, plus the intermediate positions. There are only a handful of combinations for whatever pair of tumblers is currently against the barrier. Probably can accomplish this with a single key. You do not need to depress all sets of tumblers at once in order to get the lock innards out. Only that last set, which changes as you increment.
03-05-2010, 12:03 AM
#4
Good info.
You could also just call the porsche dealer, give them your vin# and they will send away for a brand new original key ( that fits your original ignition) . It cost me $45 I think.
You could also just call the porsche dealer, give them your vin# and they will send away for a brand new original key ( that fits your original ignition) . It cost me $45 I think.
03-05-2010, 12:24 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Been trying to get a key via Porsche for a while.
Like X weeks ago. Its around $80.
Meanwhile, while enthralled with American Idol, I was fiddling with the ignition lock and a key from another car, when presto, it came apart in my hand.
So, tonight I rekeyed the whole car to match an old stray key.
(That means my new VIN key should show up tomorrow in the mailbox.)
Like X weeks ago. Its around $80.
Meanwhile, while enthralled with American Idol, I was fiddling with the ignition lock and a key from another car, when presto, it came apart in my hand.
So, tonight I rekeyed the whole car to match an old stray key.
(That means my new VIN key should show up tomorrow in the mailbox.)
03-05-2010, 12:30 AM
#7
Racer
Okay, so I cannot get my Ignition Switch to turn past 2. I can turn it far enough that it will initiate the electrics, but it will not go past this... Is this process something I should try?
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03-05-2010, 12:43 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well, if the steering lockpin isn't the problem, or even if it is, I guess removing the ignition lock is your first step. With it out of the column, you can quickly determine if the problem is in the keyed lock or somewhere else behind it.
03-05-2010, 03:58 AM
#9
Racer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlQUqttRHy4
Here is a video I posted, of the problem.
As you can see, one turn initiates the electrics, yet the second turn does not appear to do anything, but make that humming noise.
Here is a video I posted, of the problem.
As you can see, one turn initiates the electrics, yet the second turn does not appear to do anything, but make that humming noise.
03-05-2010, 07:58 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
I belive the hum is your fuel pump. guys, correct me if I am wrong
03-05-2010, 08:37 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The switch is a piece I generally replace on a car resurection.
I've taken one apart and there are 4 or 5 sets of "points" like inside a relay, arranged periperally around a central axis. They rotate into contact. The can get burned or worn and cause intermittant problems.
But you might have lots of other things going on in the car electrically that are preventing the starter from engaging. Like starter relay. Lock-out circuit if its an automatic. etc.
There is probably troubleshooting that could be done with a meter on the switch, but that piece I would replace. You can have apparent conductivity, for instance, with an ohm meter across the points, but not be able to pass the full design current due to corrosion on the same contacts.
Does this help? Did the car run before you took the switch apart? Gotta tell us more.
I've taken one apart and there are 4 or 5 sets of "points" like inside a relay, arranged periperally around a central axis. They rotate into contact. The can get burned or worn and cause intermittant problems.
But you might have lots of other things going on in the car electrically that are preventing the starter from engaging. Like starter relay. Lock-out circuit if its an automatic. etc.
There is probably troubleshooting that could be done with a meter on the switch, but that piece I would replace. You can have apparent conductivity, for instance, with an ohm meter across the points, but not be able to pass the full design current due to corrosion on the same contacts.
Does this help? Did the car run before you took the switch apart? Gotta tell us more.
03-05-2010, 09:32 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Been trying to get a key via Porsche for a while.
Like X weeks ago. Its around $80.
Meanwhile, while enthralled with American Idol, I was fiddling with the ignition lock and a key from another car, when presto, it came apart in my hand.
So, tonight I rekeyed the whole car to match an old stray key.
(That means my new VIN key should show up tomorrow in the mailbox.)
Like X weeks ago. Its around $80.
Meanwhile, while enthralled with American Idol, I was fiddling with the ignition lock and a key from another car, when presto, it came apart in my hand.
So, tonight I rekeyed the whole car to match an old stray key.
(That means my new VIN key should show up tomorrow in the mailbox.)
Finding an effective solution to a car problem = +1 man points
Finding said effective solution while watching American Idol = -1 man points
03-05-2010, 09:49 AM
#14
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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I guess I should feel lucky my 81 came with six keys.
03-05-2010, 10:19 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Going along with this topic, my recent 928 acquisition left me with only one key which has since been lost. Does anyone have a spare they can part with so I can rekey my locks?