928 cut off check oil light
12-27-2009, 11:38 PM
#48
Rennlist Member
If the fuel pump was jammed then it would make a quiet "thump" when energized. It would also pull 8-10 amps which would be enough to turn a thin piece of wire red-hot.
An '89 has the in-tank pump, right?
An '89 has the in-tank pump, right?
12-27-2009, 11:41 PM
#49
Race Car
Look at the picture of the relay provided 30 and 87 are the ones you short together. The relay numbers 53 are upside down on some cars, this is the same as a VW relay available at most AP stores. Your pins to short are 9 and 3 O'Clock you can use your horn relay as a test. Checking your timing belt is more involved, so start with what breaks most the FP relay or Fuel Pump.
Get a helper jump the relay and start the car and have them listen for the pump turning on. If it floods and you smell fuel it takes a lot to get it started. A bad Temp II sensor will have the same no start symptom, Every sensor that is important should be checked at the computers, it makes it a lot faster and cuts out the guess work.
Get a helper jump the relay and start the car and have them listen for the pump turning on. If it floods and you smell fuel it takes a lot to get it started. A bad Temp II sensor will have the same no start symptom, Every sensor that is important should be checked at the computers, it makes it a lot faster and cuts out the guess work.
12-27-2009, 11:43 PM
#50
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jcorenman if the fuelpump is jammed can i stick my multimeter inside the relay and check how many amps its giving out? what would it give out anyways? i know their is a fuel pump and filter on the back of the car under a panel.
12-28-2009, 12:04 AM
#52
Captain Obvious
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I was dead serious to use a paper clip. It's a solid piece of steel that can, for a little bit, handle enough load to do the testing. Multimeter wires are very thin with lots of insulation and will easily overheat...... ask me how I know.
I was trying to have you use whatever you have handy but, it starting to look like you better get someone that knows a thing or two about cars. Or else you'll end up damaging something that was not part of the original problem.
I was trying to have you use whatever you have handy but, it starting to look like you better get someone that knows a thing or two about cars. Or else you'll end up damaging something that was not part of the original problem.
12-28-2009, 12:12 AM
#53
Rennlist Member
You can confirm a second pump: Remove that fuel-pump cover (10mm wrench) and find the tank fitting-- if it has two wires in addition to the fuel hose, then you have an in-tank pump. The best fix is to drain the tank, remove the fitting and in-tank pump, and replace it with the strainer (no pump) from an 87/88 S4. And then clear/clean the main pump or replace it. Not a simple roadside job...
Our recent experience is here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...mp-upated.html
12-28-2009, 12:15 AM
#54
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12-28-2009, 12:18 AM
#56
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With the hood open, turn the ignition switch on - don't operate the starter. Listen carefully to the injectors - if they are clicking, the LH ECU has failed.
If you have someone to help you, kneel down by the rear bumper and have the helper operate the starter. You should hear the buzz or whine of the fuel pump. If not, check Fuse #42.Swap Fuse #42 and Fuse #18, and see if the horn still works. If there is no buzz, and Fuse #42 is OK, swap Relay XX (the fuel pump relay) and Relay XIV (the starter relay). If the starter no longer works, the relay is faulty. You can get the car going by swapping in the horn or defrost relay.
If you have a fuel pump buzz, use a mechanic's stethoscope, a piece of tubing, or a long wooden rod to listen to an injector as the helper operates the starter. There should be a regular "click, click, click" as the starter operates.
If you have someone to help you, kneel down by the rear bumper and have the helper operate the starter. You should hear the buzz or whine of the fuel pump. If not, check Fuse #42.Swap Fuse #42 and Fuse #18, and see if the horn still works. If there is no buzz, and Fuse #42 is OK, swap Relay XX (the fuel pump relay) and Relay XIV (the starter relay). If the starter no longer works, the relay is faulty. You can get the car going by swapping in the horn or defrost relay.
If you have a fuel pump buzz, use a mechanic's stethoscope, a piece of tubing, or a long wooden rod to listen to an injector as the helper operates the starter. There should be a regular "click, click, click" as the starter operates.
12-28-2009, 12:34 AM
#57
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i switched both new fuses around 42 and 18, then i switched the starter and fuel pump relay around and it still didnt start. i am by myself but when i turn the key not all the way but close without turning the starter i hear a few clicks like 3 or 4 then it stops. i am 80% sure my lh ecu is bag. how much does jds charge to have it rebuilt?
12-28-2009, 11:03 AM
#58
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Throwing parts at a 928 problem gets really, really expensive in a hurry. I would suggest more troubleshooting, and more testing. Don't jump to conclusions so quickly...
12-28-2009, 02:38 PM
#59
Three Wheelin'
88 Have you looked at your 14 pin connector (next to/below) jump post on passenger side in engine bay near front? Sounds like before your start throwing $$$ via EZK and LH, check for corrosion and condition of the 22 year old wires in there. Search the forum for ground wire cleaning.
Have a look at my post : http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=36
I used heat shrink from the autoparts store to fix this at the 14 pin connector and starter. Also power wire on driver side near front is worth checking for same.
Have a look at my post : http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=36
I used heat shrink from the autoparts store to fix this at the 14 pin connector and starter. Also power wire on driver side near front is worth checking for same.