James Bailey

More fuel to the fire.."Water contamination in oil affects both the oil and the machine. It promotes oxidation of the lubricant’s base oil and washes out some additives which are attracted to water. Later, water will typically separate to the bottom of the sump. It hydrolyzes (chemically attacks) additives, which compromise their performance, and in some cases, produces highly corrosive by-products. A water-degraded lubricant cannot fully lubricate and protect the machine, which leads to excessive wear and failure. Water also attacks the machine directly. ....... " No wonder Porsche stayed away from water for all those years

GregBBRD

Mark:

Oil cooler/radiator in UPS. Sent you the whole radiator...you can use what you want and throw the rest away.

I'm guessing that you could also add that oil to the engine 1 quart at a time and never hurt anything...especially if you were adding it to a "hot" engine. Keep in mind that you are bound to end up with some water in the oil, just because of how the oil pan is designed. The odds of getting all the water out of the bottom of your pan is probably very low.

mark kibort

Thanks GREG !! Just got it last night.

There was a crack in the outer tank, oil side, so we are going to plan B. Get the oil tank out of the radiator and just exchange that portion on my old radiator.

are the oil coolers the same on both side or does the trans cooler require a different cooler? Side tanks look to be swapable, is that true?

maybe next time, i can build that radiator up with new side tanks with no internal coolers and then mount an external oil cooler.

Thanks again. I just snail mailed you a thank you card.

mk

Lizard928

Yes the end tanks and coolers are the same left/right.

mark kibort

wow, thats interesting. Thanks!

mk

SharkSkin

Not so fast.

One tank has a temperature switch boss/threads. On a car with no AC you can probably get away with putting a driver side tank on the passenger side and plug the hole with an old switch, but with AC it's a bit tight over there for that.

Mrmerlin

I would not even consider putting on an old plastic end tank, you will usually have one chance to get it right, then the core will be a throw away.
Just buy the correct side and have it installed.
FWIW the PS tank is the one that usually fails right at the top of the clamping area.
Dave is also correct about the thermo switch on the front bottom of the DS end tank.
Since you have a cooler failure on the DS there isnt any reason to put used end tanks back on

Imo000

I'm as cheap as they come and even I wouldn't swap used thanks. This is a really bad idea.

mark kibort

Well, there goes that idea or possibility then.

Is this because the tabs cant be bent more than a couple of times?
why does the PS side have more of a chance of breaking at the clamping area first?
as far as the DS side tank failure, it was at the oil cooler, so the side tank looks and has been ok. however I didnt realize you could buy just the side tanks.

Ill post some pictures of the radiator. those little coolers are pretty interesting looking.

blown 87

I think you are missing a wonderful chance to go ahead and put a better oil cooler in it.

Mrmerlin

1 yes
2 air pocket just above the core lets the plastic run hotter and this is what causes the fracture( this can be verified when you remove the PS tank there will be a white chalk line just about 1/4 from the top of the tank, due to there being no vent on the PS tank)
3 Roger sells side tanks with new O ring seals then a trip to a good rad shop should have the new tank installed, you will also need 2 new O rings for the cooler to fit on the inside of the new tank

hacker-pschorr

+1

How much is a Motul oil cooler and some lines? $200 if you go fancy?

mark kibort

#1 thats why bleeding the system is so important (or another reason why)

#2 Ill check for the evidence of this.

#3 there we go. thats the plan. buy two side tanks, and mount them to this newer radiator core and then mount a good external cooler.

here is the pics of the stuff apart.

I think that "white" area on the cooler out of the tank, is where my leak was. Ill do some verification on that.

blau928

MK,

I have an extra 14"X12" Setrab with AN-8 fittings which fits perfectly in the nose of an S4/GT/GTS, that you could easily swap to AN-12 or use a Metric M22 to M26 adapter and reuse the stock 928 oil lines. I'm not sure what the heat rejection rating is, but you could look up the model # if you're interested in sizing accurately based on heat load.

It needs cleaning, but Pacific Oil Cooler in LA can do that for $120..

Just replace the cooler with and air cooler if you want to keep it simple..

With Roger's deal, as Greg said, if they are ultrasonically cleaned, then great, just do that and be done with it... (Sometimes being cheap in the beginning costs a lot in the longer term...)

If you want the Setrab, I'd donate it to the #19 fund, you pay for cleaning @ Pacific. AN-12 Setrab adapters are $10-15 from HRP or Pegasus etc.

Cheers,

SharkSkin

Mark, I know you were curious, but it's really better to have the rad shop do the side tank R&R. San Carlos Radiator's number is 650-593-3193. Ask for Mark. He may not want to touch it since you already bent the tabs, but ask anyway.