utjmac

I feel like I've read every "hatch" link that comes from a search query and I'm stumped. I started with a severely cracked alarm upper hatch latch, a lower hatch receiver with no insert, and a slightly cracked hatch seal. Hatch wouldn't close and it leaked; full rebuild needed. Even in that form, I could press down, and the receiver would catch, but pop open at the slightest bump. New hatch gasket, new upper (non alarm), and new lower receiver.

I was having problems with the lower receiver getting stick down. Roger from 928rus indicated this has been an outstanding issue, and advised me to slightly enlarge the opening from the bottom (where the plunger switch screws in). No problem, slightly enlarged it with a 5/16 bit. Now it no longer gets stuck down.

Now, I can put my entire weight on the hatch, and it looks as if it never gets close enough to catch under the lower receiver. I thought there was possibly interference with the rubber side bumpers that are halfway up the hatch, so I removed them. I removed the screw in rubber bump stops on the tail end of the hatch for the same reason, and tonight I climbed in the trunk, adjusting everything while my wife tried to push the hatch into position.

It almost looks as if the top hatch needs a spacer to latch properly. With my weight on it, the hatch looks to be even with the rear fenders, but the latch isn't catching. I've tried moving the top hatch mechanism, but there isn't much play in the location. The bottom receiver will slid back and forth a bit. Pushed toward the front of the car, the top hatch assembly severely hits the teflon liner. Pushed toward the rear of the car, the latch goes into place, but will never catch. From inside the car, I've moved the release mechanism up and down to see if it's interfering, but it isn't even contacting the top latch.

I'm reluctant to add spacers or washer that aren't intended, as everything is new I don't see why it wouldn't mate up. The top latch only has two hex head bolts, no washers. The bottom is the same, hex head, right into the receiving holes. I was told in the last few months from a couple local 928 owners that my hatch gap didn't look too excessive, so I feel like my clearances are fine, but have attached pictures for the groups review.

The single picture of the interior latch is close to closing, but that's with all my wife's weight on the hatch and there is still a gap. Is the spring incredibly stiff initially? If my other pictures would have come out better, and the picture taken from a vantage point closer to the hatch glass, you could still see the white upper latch assembly. The first picture is my old assembly, very bad crack you could actually see light through. The second is my current hatch gap, the third, is the interior shot of the hatch with my wife shoving down on the hatch from the outside.

Please help. I only have my 928 on partial duty as I don't want to take the girl outside if I can't lock it or keep rain out. Any thoughts on the situation are greatly appreciated. I'm sorry for adding to the hatch issues, but I really thought by replacing all new parts, and adjusting every way I knew how, I'd get this one licked. Thanks

John

Landseer

Is that wiper shaft / mechanism stuck? I think the shaft is springloaded and should move down a little. Does it move?

edit - looks like mine, here's a couple comparison pictures. Can take more photos or measurements to help. Can you show pictures of the new upper and lower parts?

syoo8

I'm not sure if I quite follow what is happening with your car. I did this job on my 86.5 this past June, and my problem was that the rear hatch was closing all the way, but not latching at all. The hatch key was turning with no resistance.

Is this what is happening to you?

Landseer

Looks like you are offline now. Some more pictures for comparison.

Be sure your white upper piece is not stuck-in (see yellow arrows / note this one is shown ready to latch, not stuck-in)) I have one that sticks and it requires either back-turning the key (which sets the alarm) or being pried out with fingers before it will latch.

Also, check the roofline. Yours is hard to judge, but looks gapped.

Can't do much more. I know its frustrating to install parts, especially with help, and it not work first time after all the effort.

utjmac

Landseer - The wiper mechanism seems to move freely with s spring in the mechanism. Before I replaced all the parts, and I tried to use the rear wiper, it would push the wiper halfway though the stroke and then stop, due to lack of contact with the mechanism through the entire "sweep". I only used it by accident and was waiting to get a clean seal and latch before attempting to run it again.

I've attached pictures here.

The first shows the hatch with both latches uninstalled. I'm trying to determine if this is a latch issue or a hatch fitment issue. The hatch seems to rest relatively close to "closed position", but may have some support due to a new gasket installed. It's in the mid 40's this morning, so the rubber may be a bit firm. This rubber isn't significantly affected by temperature, so I'm not initially thinking its a fitment issue.

The second picture is with the latch mechanisms both installed. It sits considerably higher, I assume, held up by the spring in the lower mechanism. It seems quite firm.

The third is the lower mechanism. The motor assembly is currently detached, so you can see the release lever. I've laid inside the hatch and attempted to move the release lever while my wife attempts to hold the hatch down. It moves as freely with the hatch closed as it does open, indicated to me that the upper latch is not deep enough in the receiving latch to give the lever an opportunity to contact it.

The 4th is the upper mechanism, which if you look closely, has been marked with repeated attempted closings. The dark line is showing about as close to latching as it can get. Right now, I think it needs another 1/4 to 1/2 inch to latch into the receiver. That seems like a big gap.

The 5th is one of the water diverters or wipes in the hatch drain area. I have one on the drivers side, but not the passenger. I don't think this matters, but it's the only one still on the hatch. I've removed the two screw in rubber stops as well as the centering rubbers midway down the hatch line.

I just want to be able to lock my car fully, and keep water out. The only thing I can think, is that my spring in the receiver is ridiculously strong, I'm missing washers or spacers (Im not good enough in the PET program to find the assembly), or my hatch mounting locations are deformed to the point of causing clearance issues. I don't see any hammer marks, so I don't think it's the latter.

I think I'm methodically going after this, but I'm at wits end here. Any thoughts? Thank you everyone for your comments and recommendations.


John

utjmac

Oh, to reference your hatch key question, it seems to work as I think it's intended too.

I turn the key, the top latch moves in, then back out when I release it. With my finger, I can the moving mechanism on the top latch in and out, and it returns to normal. I rebuilt my last one, and it seems the spring is in place as intended.

UncleMaz

I would take out the receiver and the latch and try to latch them out of the car by hand. If they latch, you have an alignment problem.

utjmac

Michael,

Good call on keeping it simple. That's why it helps to get other opinions on it.

Unfortunately, I have not a reference for proper latch feel. I did check my old receiver spring, and it feels about the same as the new one. When I press the two together, there is a slight release in tension, telling me that the top receiver has passed and "latched in". But if I were to take hands off each piece, the spring would push it apart. I'm assuming this SHOULD happen, for instance when pulling the trunk latch it will "pop" the trunk up. Is this the proper operation? With only one pair of hands, I couldn't try the actuator.

Can anyone verify if there are any washers or screws in between the body and the latch mechanisms, or instruct me how to find the assembly diagram in the PET and I could answer it myself? I found door latches, and spoiler assemblies, but never could find the breakout for the rear latch. Either that or someone with a proper latch could quickly disassemble and verify.

Also, it looks as if the "ball" on the latch motor can be placed in multiple positions. The first time I disassembled this, I found it very loose, and couldn't determine what position the ball and opposing clip should be notched into. If anyone has a picture they could email me or post I would be very appreciative.


Thanks all!

tedward515

I had a similar problem with my 81 when I first bought it. I ended up adjusting the whole hatch, although it didn't look out of alignment. Since I've realigned it its been fine.
If you sit in the back seat and look straight up there are two black plastic covers in the rear of the headliner. These hide the hex head screws for the hatch hinges. Loosen all of them just a little bit. The whole hatch will move very easy and you can push it forward and then re-tighten them. I had to do it a couple of times to get the hang of it. After a few tries the latch was catching like a champ. No more hatch popping open over the railroad tracks
I would also put a little bit of penetrating fluid the screws before I loosened them just in case there a little frozen.

Just my two cents.

utjmac

First, I had to remove the hatch motor screw and rotate the ball in the above picture to get the ball and actuator arm motor in the correct position. The position shown in the picture above is the worst place it can be. For those that didn't know, the latch needs to be in the full upright position I believe.

Tedward - i loosened the bolts and pushed the hatch back up while tightening. I think I improved the hatch alignment slightly, but not a huge change. I tried shimming this and that, and the only way I could get the hatch to latch was a fairly sizable shim under the top latch. Again, are there supposed to be any washers between the body and latch assemblies that would either raise the bottom latch up, or more likely, push the top latch down?

Can anyone see the assembly in the PET? Again, I just couldn't find it on there.
John

Landseer

Body section 8

Pages designated
803-05

If you can't find it, I can post it later.

utjmac

Great, not only did you identify the page, but when I couldn't find that one, I figured out how to use the PET.

Is part 12, the "Base" a gasket that fits under the hatch receiver, or what fits beneath the hatch frame to receive the receiver bolts? Also, how can I tell the difference between the two part numbers of hatch base?

Again, both my upper and lower hatch sit directly on the "frame" of the hatch, no spacers.

Landseer - thank you for the help!

John

Landseer

So John,
Are you missing this part?
Surely one of us has a spare we can mail you in an envelope.
I'll check in a little bit.

Jerry Feather

Hi John: Did you figure the latch out yet? I took one of mine apart to use the latch reciever for fitting the new latch receiver liners I am trying to make and noticed that under the receiver on the rear of the car there was a fairly thick spacer. It is about andeighth of an inch thick, or slightly less and looks factory, and not homemade or aftermarket. Maybe you need one or more of them? Also did you try the idea someone else gave you about taking the receiver out of the car and seeing if it will latch over the hatch component above on the hatch? That should tell you something.

Jerry Feather

utjmac

Wow, nope I don't have this part in mine. Anyone have one?

The latch fits together when seperated (thanks for that suggestion). I can currently get it to latch with a homemade spacer on the top latch, and basically lay on the hatch to get it to latch. By the way, how different the car sounds with a clean rear seal and a good hatch closure.

Anyone have this spacer? I'm qorking on a shipment from 928rus every three days lately. I need to stop looking for problems

John