Ducman82

keep up the good work! i love seeing other MS powered cars out there.

BC

You can push that bearing back and pin it Adam.

atb

@ Duc - Really can't wait to see if it even starts, major re-wiring done!
@ BC - I did try to hammer it back, but with the limited room under the bell housing, couldn't apply enough force on the bearing carrier to get it to budge. At this point, I'm going to carry on with reassembly of the car. When I come back to it, I'm probably going to have the drop the TT even to move the bearing, so at that point might as well rebuild it. Was not expecting to have to make that detour. Its going to have to wait until later.

BC

I used increasing amounts of ratchet extensions and pried against the rest of the housing. Also a hammer.

Yours is not moving? I suppose if the shaft is not vibrating while driving it wouldn't matter. I have only known these migrations by the vibrations it causes.

Lizard928

The TPS doesn't matter what range it is in. The MS has settings that you program what it is looking for.

Looking really good Adam!

atb

Finally got the track car exhaust welded up.

Many thanks to Al Blose for handling all of the fabrication. There’s another thread regarding the cutting of all the pipe, this is just quick recap.

So here’s what I started with. A set of brand new DEVEK Level 3 Headers that I took to the local coaters to get ceramic coated. Two stainless Borla Sportsman mufflers. A stainless ricer exhaust stinger with a directional tip off Ebay. And a whole bunch of 3” stainless tubing stock from Columbia River Mandrel in Oregon.



In addition, I have the coveted Jensan Racing Y-pipe in stainless.


Here’s a shot of Al with the portable band saw cutting up the stainless sections a couple months back:




He had cut all the sections previously, and tacked some of them. Today, he finished welding up all the V bands and then we mounted all the pieces under the car and finished tacking them together:






After tacking all the parts, we set the system on a couple stands to finish welding all the seams. The exhaust is set up with tail end lower then the Y pipe. The Y openings are taped close with aluminum tape and a small breather hole poked through. The tail pipe is sealed off and a purge line is run into it with argon plumbed in. This keeps the inside of the the tubing constantly purged with argon while he welds up the seams. The argon is heavier than air, so it fills the tubing from the bottom up. He would let it fill for a couple minutes, and when the argon started coming out of the breather holes at the top, he'd start to weld. Sorry, no pics of Al welding while the exhaust was on the stands, I was too busy holding the piping while he was welding.



In the end, I think it snugged up pretty nice. Pipes are up tight against the body ( haven't mounted heat shields yet) , and the directional stinger doesn't look too repugnant. I'm hoping that it will get me below 105dB.






I just need to fab two mounting brackets, which I'm hoping to do tomorrow.

GlenL

Wow... A lot of cool work. My race car project isn't moving nearly this fast and, in the end, it won't move as fast, either.

What association do you plan to run in? I'm planning to run my '80 Euro S in stock PCA as class D. That's "C" plus 1 for Euro spec. With that amalgamation of parts you'll be quick.

atb

It's been awhile, but we were told if we brought four cars we'd get our own class (928) within SCCA -ITE.

We've got the four, but they are in various stages of the build. Two are runners, mine will hopefully be soon, and the fourth is a shell with Ott flares waiting for paint before reassembly. Should be interesting if it all comes together. For now, I'm just continuing to build and will have to make adjustments as I go along. May end up in a GTS class if we can't keep our group together.

GlenL

What would the regulations be?

silbershark

I have the Euro AT twin to this car. Need brown body panels?

atb

@Glen L. ITE is typically a regional class. It's pretty much open. If you do a search for "SCCA ITE" it will pull up examples of some of the regional rules.

@silber shark - thanks for the offer, but the car will not be remaining braun for very long. Current planned color scheme is classic grey /grand prix white w/red and black graphics.

Pleasantly surprised at how well the stock heatshields fit.



In the final iteration of the rear muffler mount, I’ll probably be able to raise the tail pipe another two inches, and still have about an inch of clearance between the top of the exhaust pipe and the bottom of the transaxle cross member.

Overall, very happy with how the exhaust turned out and calling it “good enough” to move onto the other projects with the car. Next will be hooking up the accessories at the front of the engine (Alt/PS/Crank Vac Pump).

atb

Got the vacuum pump installed. This is the lizard set up using a GZ pump, lizard Porkensioner mount, 16an stainless steel lines, an old school Ott engineering breather cap, and a lizard air/oil separator. What you don't see is the 5/16" line that comes out of the AOS and dumps back into the passenger side (US) cam cover.

Still kind of consider this a rough in, but gives me good idea as what I want in the final install. I'm now at the point where I can start wiring up the engine.

mark kibort

spec for ITE is regional, but basically anything goes on DOTs as long as it has a VIN number. safety equip is same as the IT class (Improved touring) which is sligthly more lax than the full blown race car specs (ie, fuel cell optional , etc)

the 928 running in the class is an interesting option, but they would probably give you a american v8 supercar type of classs, but generally they want a higher car count for each race weekend. but if you can do it. thats great... you guys can come down for the big laguna event where the pac NW porsche guys go in the summer!

atb

Thanks to everyone who gave me tips on my tranny cooler thread.

I've completed the install of my transmission cooler. I decided to use the stock battery box location since the odyssey battery now resides in the rear passenger seat space.

First step was to cut the quarter window lexan and install a naca duct.



I then cut the top of the battery box lid and installed the second duct.



Here's the underside view. I had to fab up a deflector to direct the air to the center of the cooler.



Hosed!



Swiss cheesed the back half of the battery box to allow the hot air to escape under the car.



Here's an underside view of the fan pack in situ. You can see ventilation holes in the back of the box.



To accommodate the Tilton pump, I had to cut the floor out of the front half of the battery box. I didn't want air coming from under the car and creating a reversion through the underside of the cooler, so I built this partition which sections off the back half of the box, isolating the cooler.



Here is the main input line. Cooled oil gets fed into the front of the tranny to cool hot syncros.

[/URL]

Here's the output line, pulling hot oil off the LSD diff. There's a 190 degree thermo-switch mounted on the rear fitting that will automatically fire up the pump and fan.



This is the rough in installation of the components. Setrab mini fan pack cooler, 100 micron filter, tilton pump. Looks pretty hillbilly in this pic.



Here's the final. All cleaned up and 928-worthy.



Just need to wire it all up. I plan on installing a manual override switch for the pump and fan on my front console. Hopefully this will keep the tranny shifting smoothly on the track. Will be filling with Mobil 1.

mark kibort

Hate to say it now, but you could have ,mounted the radiator verticaly, and had an opeing to oncoming air. (lots of air underneath the car) and have it exit to the rear of the battery panel vented t the rear bumper. then, you wouldnt even need a fan. you still can do that..
but it looks good as you have it. nice work