StratfordShark

Local Porsche deal did a free inspection on cars from my local Porsche owners club at weekend - great sight to see 4 928s on their ramps instead of normal 997s, Cayennes, Caymans...

Anyway mine got a pretty good report except that the mechanic found play in the LHS tie-rod and suggested I change it. I know you can diagnose whether problem is at tie-rod end or at the joint at rack end but they're probably original so I want to replace the whole thing - maybe both sides as if one's on the way out the other must be near.

I haven't worked on steering gear before so as soon as I got back here I looked up and read various write-ups/threads on the job. Also checked that the complete tie-rod assembly (including outer end) and gaiter was relatively cheap.

It looks fairly straightforward except for the force required to undo at inner end/rack connection (wsm spec is 150Nm, and I will only have car on stands so can't put long breaker bars on tie-rod and rack to counterhold).

The only thing that puzzled me was some people saying it was hard to fit wrench between the rack stop and the tie rod flats (32mm). Was reassured by subsequent posts which said you could tap the stop back to make more space.

But why is the fit a problem? Even if the stop is hard against the tie-rod, why would that prevent the flats of the wrench going on the flats on the tie-rod, even if they are thin?

Maybe all will be clear when I'm underneath the car, and seems you can create room anyway, but it's still bugging me!

I did see a brilliant tip that said you could put wrenches on in a 'V', but instead of squeezing them together by hand, you could put a spring compressor on the wrench ends and squeeze them that way in a very controlled, safe manner.

borland

That's just the way they designed, and thus the special tool as shown in the WSM.

eBay is a good source of individual crow foot wrenches. You need 32mm (or 1-1/4") and 22mm wrenches. Counter hold steering rack per WSM, counter rack rod optional 22mm wrench.

Here's a pair of 1/2" drive wrenches that were both modified with a dremel tool to fit the 928 tie rods, one standard crow foot, the other crow foot flare wrench made straight...

Garth S

You will see how tight the spacing is once the rack boots are pulled back .... I've never had a problem releasing an inner joint when placing the two wrenches in a tight 'V' - and giving them a double fisted squeeze: caveat .... wear heavy leather gloves, and never let your pinkies or the meat of the palm enter the 'V', for it becomes a guillotine when the joint releases.

jcorenman

This is a RHD car, right? So the play is on the passenger's side?

I think it is worth pulling the boot back and verifying that the play is actually in one of the tie-rod ends and not the steering rack. Have someone wiggle the steering wheel back and forth while you fondle the tie-rod joints, if there is play you will feel it. (This is best done with the tires on the ground or ramps, to load up the steering a bit).

Good luck, and be careful using big wrenches with the car on stands.

Mrmerlin

too bad you cut that crows foot down it wasnt necessary.
If you take a screwdriver and small hammer you can tap the steering stops (they are snugged up against the inner tie rods) inwards on the rack they will slide so a full width wrench can fit on the inner tierods, then also use a 22mm to counter hold the rack

SharkSkin

This is definitely true on the early cars, since the stop is held captive by the flats that engage on the flats at the rack ends. I'm pretty sure it's not an issue by 88 MY, but it's pretty easy to get under there and check; you will only need to loosen the boot to tell. I had to grind a wrench down to do mine, and I found that the "two-wrench squeeze" approach worked fine for disassembly.

Cosmo Kramer

On my 85, the stops slide back and forth so a full sized wrench can get on it. I used an open end wrench on the rack side and notched a small piece of wood and wedged it between the wrench and the swaybar mount. I put a zip tie around the wrench and swaybar to hold it and the block in place. I took a large adjustable wrench and removed the tierod end. It took me two hands on the adjustable wrench so that is why I devised something to hold the rack side while I reefed on it. These things are really on there from the factory, search some threads here and you will see what some people have had to do to get them off. I saw a pic of a guy that attached a come along to the wrench to get it to go!

StratfordShark

Thanks everyone for good advice.

I will check if the play is in fact in the rack before buying tie-rods and diving in. I was with the tech who inspected my car and he didn't do the 'differential diagnosis'. Since inspection was free I can't complain! He did mention that it could be the rack. From my records the rack was changed for a brand new Porsche part in 2000 (not the tie rods though) as it was leaking.

Sharkskin it does look tight in your photos. I've seen photos in write-up on later car though where there was lots of room around the stop after sliding it, so I may be fortunate there.

Mrmerlin

when you install a rebuilt rack it comes with a tube of red loctite that is used to secure the inner tie rod threads, if the wrench wont budge try using some heat, you may damage the steering stop but they can be replaced

Cosmo Kramer

Hey Merlin, is it required to loctite the inner tie rod end thread when you put it on? I didn't do this.

StratfordShark

Oh great, so I'm up against a high torque spec and red loctite!

Saves money on a gym membership though.

SharkSkin

Mine were loctited. The two-wrench squeeze, with gloves, did the trick. Just use long wrenches.